While waiting for the spring awakening, what about having a little fun and cheering up your gloomy days with jokes? Where could you possible do it better than in the city of “Čivijaši”, also known for its bohemians, taverns, luxurious and diverse architecture, the widely known fair, and fierce battles for freedom. Where the regions of Mačva, Pocerina and Posavina meet.

BECAUSE ŠABAC IS CALLED “LITTLE PARIS”

It got this nickname a long time ago. And for a good reason. It was ranked first in Serbia in many ways. Here, on the right bank of the Sava river, the sounds of the first piano were heard, the first carriage ran by, the first pharmacy and the first city hospital in the district were opened, the first town to see the first deck of cards, billiard and window glasses, the first equestrian club, the most recent Vienna- and Paris-style clothes were worn… And Draga Ljočić, local lady, was the first Serbian trained doctor. Legend has it that it was also the first city where women were allowed to enter the tavern. And there used to be 130 taverns here. In addition to bohemian life, the tavern has always been the center of social, cultural and political life. Adding its elegant and diverse architecture, it is not surprising that the city of Šabac was nicknamed “Little Paris”. But compared to the French capital, it is great in its sufferings and sacrifices for freedom and its Sava River, wide, deep, so much more powerful than the Paris Seine.

Its residents are widely known as “Čivijaši”. There are more anecdotes about how they were named after “čivija”, Turkish word for a “carriage wheel peg”, especially a wooden one, and “hitting a peg” colloquially meant tricking, deceiving or pranking someone. The commonly accepted version says that it was Prince Mihailo Obrenović himself who coined this nickname. And who wouldn’t want their godfather to a man of such ranking? Namely, when the prince came to visit Šabac once, some witty and idle locals pulled out a peg from the wheel of his carriage, and when Mihailo headed for Belgrade, he ended up in the dust after about a hundred meters. They might have paid a huge price for this mischief, but their punishment was only an unusual nickname, and the word “čivijaš” became synonymous with a joker or a jester. It seems they were happy to accept it, because they also founded the well-known festival of humor and satire, known as “Čivijada“.

Šabac was first mentioned in the writings under the name of “Zaslon” in 1454, although it is believed that the settlement, probably a commercial one, originated at the beginning of the 14th century during the reign of King Dragutin, whose summer house was in the nearby village of Debrc. Archaeological sites confirm that there were settlements in this area even in the early Stone Age, and that the Romans lived here at the dawn of the new era. After the fall of the Serbian state in the second half of the 15th century, the Ottomans conquered these areas. The name Šabac was first used in a drawing by Hartmann Schödel from 1493. It soon became an important stronghold and frontier city with developed trade. It flourished during the reign of Jevrem Obrenović, Prince Miloš’s brother, a man of broad and advanced views who adorned it European charm and practices.

To this day, the city has preserved its distinctive spirit and has a lot to be proud of. The center is dominated by the Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, Jevrem’s endowment, completed in 1830. The interior is adorned with a valuable carved iconostasis, from the middle of the 19th century. This Orthodox church is also a symbol of suffering. In August 1914, many residents of Šabac were imprisoned in the church and later shot. In its courtyard there is a monument to the victims of the Balkan Wars and the Great War, with an ossuary underneath. The very heart of the city, a living promenade, is named after Gospodar (Lord) Jevrem. In that street and the surrounding area there are many striking buildings of Šabac – the Twin buildings, the house of Prota Jovan Pavlović, the First National Pharmacy, the Episcopium, the Grammar School, as well as the luxurious and large Krsmanović House, built in 1891 as a trade and residential building.

A vibrant yet modest, welcoming city that offers amenities and cultural experiences like a much larger city.

BECAUSE A WALK THROUGH THE NATIONAL MUSEUM IS UNFORGETTABLE

It is located in the building of the former Half-Gymnasium, built in 1857, in the style of Central European architecture. The exhibition space is on the first floor, and almost the entire wall of the mezzanine is adorned with the magnificent work of Stevan Čalić “The Great Men of the Podrinje Region“. The permanent exhibition is divided into six collections. The oldest exhibits on display are the horns of a steppe bison and the shin of a woolly mammoth. Among the most important items are the works of the passionate, unbridled genius Milić of Mačva, figures of the Roman god of trade Mercury and the goddess Venus, and for lovers of literature and film – the typewriter on which Dušan Kovačević typed all his timeless works, which he donated to the museum to “keep it, and – so the typewriter is not left alone“.  A part of the exhibition is dedicated to the Šabac Fortress, the Battle of Mišar, Lord Jevrem, and the devastation of Šabac in the Great War, for which the city received three medals; extremely interesting are the folk costumes and jewelry, and homemade craftsmanship.

A small but varied, lively and extremely appealing display. Unusually conceived, imaginative. The National Museum of Šabac is certainly one of the most beautiful and perhaps the most memorable cultural buildings we have visited so far.

BECAUSE THE ŠABAC FORTRESS HAS WITNESSED TUMULTUOUS DAYS

Ordered by Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror, the construction of the Fortress began in 1470 on the slightly elevated Sava riverbank. It was called “Bejurdelen” (the one who hits from the side), not very big, but its walls were strong and high. The importance of the fortification was perhaps best described by Serbian Despot Vuk Grgurević, known as “Vuk the Fiery Dragon”, who said that its right eye belonged to the Sultan, boasting that it was there that he had his foot on the throat of Christianity.  And since that time – no peace for centuries. Constant battles were fought around this extremely important border fortification, mainly between the Ottomans and Austro-Hungarians. Finally, the Serbian flag rose on its walls in 1807 and flew until the collapse of the First Serbian Uprising in 1813. The Ottomans left the fortress in April 1867, for good. Overwhelmed by fiery battles, but also often flooded by the restless Sava River, so there is not much left of its walls nowadays. Just enough to sense and breathe the past of this location. This place was called the Old Town after it. Today, it is surrounded by a park and a recreational center, and there is also a river beach nearby. In full retirement, it is finally living its carefree days.

BECAUSE THE FAMOUS PLACE MIŠAR IS AN ODE TO THE INSURGENTS

Two black ravens flew up in the blue skies,

from the great field of Mišar, vast and wide,

and from Šabac, the majestic city,

with their beaks covered in blood to their eyes,

and their claws and legs all covered in blood…

These are the opening verses of a poem written by Filip Višnjić, who immortalized the famous Battle of Mišar. One of the most important battles and greatest Serbian victories in the First Serbian Uprising. Under Karađorđe’s leadership, 7,000 Serbian foot soldiers and 2,000 horsemen fought more than 40,000 Turks at the Mišar field, at dawn on August 13, 1806, behind the trench. And they crushed the Ottomans.

A permanent exhibition within the National Museum of Šabac dedicated to this great Serbian victory was opened at the Mišar Cultural Center on August 13, 2023. Designed as a comprehensive story narrated by a model of the famous trench, portraits of the most prominent heroes, verses, and two painting reproductions of the inimitable Milić of Mačva.

About 200 m away, in the center of the village, there are monuments to Karađorđe and the heros of Mišar, erected on the centenary of the great battle. At the location of the Mišar trench, which is still considered a kind of proof of engineering talent and warrior skill. Because when you cannot resist immense force by using equivalent force, it takes a fearless heart in the chest, with some ingenuity and knowledge. And this is what Serbian rebels had.

BECAUSE IN “KARAĐORĐE“, THE DISHES HAVE A ZEST OF VICTORY

Right next to the building dedicated to the great victory of Serbian heroes, the “Karađorđe” restaurant is located. Suitably named, of course. So, we wished our meal to taste rebellious too. Modest building, checkered tablecloths, Serbian symbols prominently displayed on the walls, and exceptionally welcoming hosts. We didn’t want to see the menu; we simply asked the owner what the chef had prepared. Deer stew. What an unexpected feast. We took also veal broth and pork neck. Everything was delicious and authentic. Our famous ancestors hardly had time and opportunity to dine at the table, but if they had been able to, we believe that this restaurant Karađorđe would have been their choice.

BECAUSE PREMIUM FUEL IS BEING PUMPED AT THE SAVA BRIDGE PETROL STATION

Inspired by the heroes of Mišar, we stopped at the Sava Bridge petrol station to give our faithful vehicle something to drink. Although knowing that we could not rush at the speed at which they were chasing the Ottomans, we know that we could still be superior on the road. So, we treated our four-wheeled pet to G-Drive 100 fuel. Not only does it improve the dynamics of acceleration and engine power, but it also contributes to its proper running and longevity. After our Šabac adventure, we all deserve a reliable, yet exciting ride.

It has the reputation of being the greenest city in Serbia. It boasts diverse and skilful architecture, as well as a rich cultural heritage. It served as an endless inspiration to a great painter, while its peaceful spirit was stirred by an unbridled romantic poet. It is one of the most celebrated Serbian cities, nestled in the north-western part of the quiet region of Backa, where “the old fiacre wanders through the streets” (traditional song).

BECAUSE “IN THAT SOMBOR TOWN, ALL YOU WISH FOR”

It was first recorded at the end of the 14th century as St. Michael or Sent-Mihalj, when the estate was owned by the Hungarian noble family Cobor. Later, their surname was added to the name, becoming Cobor-Sent-Mihalj. In the mid-16th century, the settlement was incorporated in the Ottoman Empire. At that time, it appeared in Turkish tax registers as Sombor in 1543, because the Serbian Orthodox population adapted the name to their language, and the Turks did not object. At the end of the 17th century, Sombor became the part of the Austrian Empire, and about sixty years later, Empress Maria Theresa granted it the status of a free and royal city. This marked the beginning of Sombor’s significant architectural and cultural development. After World War I, Sombor became incorporated in the Kingdom of Serbia.

Even today, it graces the northwest of our homeland, near the banks of the Danube. Hospitable and peaceful, yet full of life. As the famous verses say, you will find here “everything you wish for”. At every step, alongside well-kept squares and parks, there are magnificent buildings that echo the past times. The most striking among them are: “Županija” (County Hall), now the City Assembly, City Hall – the Magistrate, “Plebanija” – the Parish Court, the former Franciscan monastery, “Preparandija” – the Teachers’ School. Sombor Theatre, Grašalković Palance and Kronić Palance. Among the religious landmarks, the Orthodox Church of St. George and the Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity stand out.

Sombor has not forgotten its two great figures. The statue of the writer and academic Veljko Petrović, who glorified his hometown as Ravangrad, stands in front of the City Library. Laza Kostić, a poet and writer, known, above all, as a romantic and unbridled spirit, sits on a bench with his distinctive tousled hair and a book in hand, in front of the house in which he had lived with Julijana Palanački. It was here that he completed his most beautiful poem, Santa Maria della Salute, before his death. He rests in the Sombor Orthodox Cemetery.

It breathes with its trees of linden, chestnut, plane yew, and the famous bođoš, as the people of Sombor call the American sycamore, a tall deciduous tree from North America. When a curious visitor becomes a weary wanderer, they should, if the weather permits, sit in a small carriage and, accompanied by the clatter of hooves, once again take in all the beauties of Sombor in that old-fashioned, noble style.

FOR THE COUNTY HALL IS ADORNED WITH THE LARGEST CANVAS IN SERBIA

On 11 September 1697, on the Tisa river, near Senta, the lances of great armies of Austria and Turkey clashed during the Great Turkish War. The Turks suffered a devastating defeat, possible because their opponent included around 500 Serbs and Bunjevci in their troops. Two centuries later, to celebrate the millennium of the arrival of Hungarians in these lands, the people of Sombor commissioned a depiction of this significant battle that certainly influenced their fate. The task was entrusted to Ferencz Eisenhut, a Hungarian of German descent, and one of the leading painters of oriental themes of his time. He created a monumental realistic work measuring seven meters by four meters. The central figure is the famous Eugene of Savoy, on a white horse, with the ferocity of the battle discernible in the background. The work was completed in Munich, where the frame was, also, crafted, a kind of artistic piece made of gilded wood. The surface area of the painting now measures 40 square meters. The people of Sombor wanted something grandiose, but it seems they did not think much about how they would bring it into the County Hall. When they could not do it easily, they resorted to force. They broke through the wall above the balcony doors all the way to the ceiling. The painting was installed in the ceremonial hall in 1898. Today, it resembles a small museum.

The ceiling is adorned with coats of arms representing the historical past of the countries that were under the rule of Hungarian monarchy, and wooden sculptures of the goddesses of wisdom, Athena, and justice, Justitia, have also been placed there.

Today, the Battle of Senta is a source of artistic pride, not only for Sombor, but also for all of Serbia. Since it is housed in the City Assembly Hall, visitors need to schedule an appointment or kindly ask the guard for a glimpse into this small treasure trove. In the absence of a curator, he will gladly introduce you to this magnificent work of art.
Here, even politics seems more bearable. When a heated debate arises, it is easy to escape a few centuries into the past and find a sense of calm in the largest oil painting on canvas in Serbia.

BECAUSE MILAN KONJOVIĆ GALLERY WORTHILY PRESERVES THE MEMORY OF A GREAT MASTER

He loved wearing a sailor-s T-shirt, a symbol of adventure on his own sea, painting, where something new and unpredictable was always happening. But that endless voyage toward the horizon was not painted in blue and white only. His reach artistic journey began with the so-called early phase, during this studies across Central Europe. After moving to Paris in the early 1930s, he created masterpieces of the blue phase, which was later replaced by the passionate red phase upon his return home, inspired by the landscapes and people of Vojvodina. War and captivity took their toll on colour, leading to the grey phase, which eventually gave way to the pure and radiant hues of the colourist phase. His most powerful and dramatic works emerged during his mature, associative phase. In his later years, he found inspiration in Byzantine icons and frescoes. With a prolific opus of over 6,000 pieces, Milan Konjovic stands among the very best of Serbian fine art. His distinctive style is marked by and expressive and fiery temperament, making his work instantly recognizable.

He lovingly gifted his favourite paintings to his hometown, believing “that is where they belonged.” A collection of 500 works, including oil paintings, watercolours, drawings, and tapestries. The Milan Konjović Gallery was founded in 1966 in a distinguished 19th-century one-story building in the heart of the city. At the beginning of the 21st century, his daughter Vera donated 17 of her father’s works from the family collection, with the request that they become part of the permanent exhibition on the ground floor. Here, visitors can also see archival materials, photographs, personal documents, painting tools, a self-portrait—an oil on hardboard from 1978—as well as the artist’s last drawing from 1993, the year when he passed away in his beloved Sombor. The upper floor hosts thematic exhibitions or displays arranged by the different phases of his artistic journey.

Today, the collection comprises nearly 1,100 of Konjović’s paintings, which can be viewed digitally on a computer. Additionally, descriptions of the artworks are available for the visually impaired and blind, and a souvenir shop has been set up as well. This modern and thoughtfully designed space, housed in a building rich with history, honors the life and work of the great painter. The experience is further enriched by the guidance of a curator, a true expert and a skilled storyteller. The Milan Konjović Gallery is undoubtedly one of the most organized and most welcoming cultural institutions we have ever visited.

BECAUSE THE SOMBOR MUSEUM SAFEGUARDS A DIVERSE COLLECTION

It was formally inaugurated by Veljko Petrović in 1945, in the house of Julije Lederer. Its first director was none other than Milan Konjović himself. Today, the museum holds around 40,000 exhibits, with approximately 1,000 on permanent display. These are categorized into four collections: archaeological, historical, ethnological, and artistic. Among the most valuable artifacts are objects from the Starčevo culture, artisanal tools, coins, weapons, archival documents, and ceramic vessels. The exhibition also features an impressive selection of Biedermeier-era salon furniture and household items, ornate tiled stoves of artistic craftsmanship, and elegant attire of the nobility. Particularly striking is the portrait of the famous Empress Sisi and the salon set of Laza Kostić, including his writing desk, quill, and manuscripts, along with a tapestry handwoven by his wife, Julijana. The museum also presents the city’s first cinema, complete with wooden seats, and, of course, Sombor’s iconic symbol—the fiacre. In the Contemporary Art Gallery, visitors can admire works by Zora Petrović, Vladimir Veličković, Cile Marinković, Edo Murtić, and Marko Čelebonović…

The museum space is seamlessly adapted to the historic building that houses it, creating the feeling that one might lose themselves in its winding hallways. Yet, an extended encounter with history and art can only make the day more enriching and beautiful.

BECAUSE FIACRE RIDES THROUGH SOMBOR FLAVOURS

And besides the ones on wheels, with a horse in harness, Sombor has its own culinary “Fiacre”— right next to the Županija building. This ethno-restaurant is nestled in a lush green garden, adorned with wooden bridges over trickling water, stones shaped by the flow, and a playground for children. It looks magical. The interior is just as inviting, decorated with rustic details and fitting artwork. And the menu? A little worldly, but mostly comfortingly local. The names of the dishes give away their origins. We choose the Fiacre schnitzel and chicken rolls with pasta, served with roasted peppers and warm flatbread. All is perfect —Somborian. We leave the Coachman’s Bite and Imperial Cutlet for our next visit. And just as the region’s history is reflected in its traditions, it is also mirrored in its desserts—from baklava and Sachertorte to a delightful blueberry pie.

BECAUSE  VRBAS 1 PETROL STATION SHINES WITH A NEW GLOW

On the way to Sombor, the city literally shines along the unlit road. It beckons you to stop and take a break. Whether it is for refuelling the transport vehicle, or simply to rest at the newly renovated petrol station, everything inside glistens. It smells brand new. But even such freshness cannot surpass the enticing aroma of fried, Italian, premium Drive Cafe coffee. With its strong, aromatic flavour, it is hard to resist. For enjoyment, alertness, and to have a good journey.

Somewhere on the border between three countries: Serbia, Montenegro, and Bosnia and Herzegovina, nature broke away from man. It spread over wood-covered hills and mountains, camouflaged rapids and streams, harboured many shrines, and concealed history so that it does not bother the present. And, it permitted the man to build only one city.

BECAUSE PRIJEPOLJE IS A BLEND OF HISTORY AND NATURE

In the area of Prijepolje, there are remains of human habitation dating back to prehistoric times. The city was first mentioned in the records in 1332. It was an integral part of Raška, one of the centres of the early Nemanjić Dynasty state and developed as a marketplace of the nearby Mileševa Monastery. It was finally liberated from the Ottomans in 1912 in the First Balkan War.

Today, at the confluence of the Mileševka and Lim Rivers, at a mountainous altitude, surrounded by hills and forests, it tells its turbulent history, exuding a diverse heritage. One of the recognisable symbols of the city is the Clock Tower, which dates from the end of the 16th century. Among the oldest buildings is the Ibrahim Pasha Mosque, built in 1572 by the son of the Herzegovinian soubashi. It was demolished several times, and almost completely destroyed during the Hungarian-Ottoman War. It was renovated and significantly upgraded around 1880. The Mahmut Bey Mosque from the end of the 19th century is also important. It is in the city centre, next to the Museum in Prijepolje, an oriental building with a permanent exhibition dedicated to its most famous resident, basketball player Vlade Divac. At the end of the 19th century, the church of St. Basil of Ostrog was built upon a somewhat older building. It is painted in the Byzantine style and has an unusual bell tower. Around the same time, a Catholic church rose on a rock on the bank of the Lim River.

Prijepolje also erected several monuments to the fallen freedom fighters, including the most famous bomber Boško Buha, who died during the fighting in the Second World War. A three-meter-high monument to Saint Sava adorns the park on the promenade next to the Lim River. An even larger green area for leisure, sports activities, and rest is arranged on the bank of the Mileševka River.

The city is best embraced from the viewpoint of Sokolica, which is also a place for rest and seclusion.

In the vicinity, there are tombstones in Hrta, dating back to the Middle Ages decorated with various carved and relief motifs, which are under the protection of UNESCO.

BECAUSE THE WATERFALLS IN SOPOTNICA ARE A GODSEND

From the waterless Pešter, the people moved to the village of Sopotnica, on the western slopes of Jadovnik mountain. However, as the nearby spring dried up soon after, the disappointed newcomers planned to continue further in search of water. But the night before they left, a voice came to them at the foot of Jadovnik, asking if they wanted it to give them water or happiness. And the people, ever wise, chose water. And so, it flows all over the place, the tradition says.

Water swoops over the vertical high wall. Billowing. Pushing its way through the dense forest, it murmurs over the stones, caressing its moss and branching into countless tiny islands that disappear into the surrounding groves. The Sopotnica is stomping. Its water cold and clear. Inexhaustible. The beauty of nature’s vitality, birth, and generosity.

Along its entire course, from the source at about 1100 meters altitude to the confluence with the Lim at almost 500 meters of altitude, the Sopotnica roars through numerous folds with waterfalls and cascades. It is a natural treasure. From the excursion site, insufficiently organised, there are two circular trails for lovers of hiking and exploring the wilderness. And it can be reached by road, which is quite narrow in some parts, so you should be careful. But the works are in progress, so the journey will be more comfortable in the foreseeable future, and hopefully the necessary signposts will be set up.

BECAUSE THE MILEŠEVKA CANYON IS A PIECE OF HISTORY IN THE WILD

It is tucked between the slopes of Zlatar and Jadovnik, making its 24-kilometre-long path. The Mileševka reaches a depth of up to 1200 meters, and in some places, it seems that it can be skipped, being only four meters wide. Its rather inaccessible and harsh, but picturesque gorge is a habitat for many plant species (about 317 of them), including Pančić spruce. The mighty ruler of the sky, the griffon vulture, also found its refuge here. In this uninhibited nature, important historical and religious monuments can also be found.

On its steep, inaccessible cliff, there are defiant remains of the town of Mileševac. It is assumed that it was erected at the same time as the nearby monastery of the same name, precisely as a guardian of the Nemanjić Family endowment. During Ottoman rule, it was called Hisarjik, after the Turkish word hisar (fortress). The name was retained by the village, where there is a mosque, famous for its 400-year-old Qur’an, written in exceptional style. The rocks also hide monastic hermitages, the most famous of which is the one of St. Sava, in the vicinity of which there is a source of Sava water, which has healing properties, especially for the visually impaired.

The undisputed gem of the canyon is the Mileševa Monastery, an endowment of King Vladislav, the grandson of Stefan Nemanja. The church, built in 1219, has many painted angels and there is the most special one, the messenger of peace, the White Angel.

BECAUSE YOU CAN ENJOY FRESH TROUT IN KANJON RESTAURANT

Even in this wild corner, there is a place for a restaurant, and not just one. We chose Kanjon, because of its fishpond or because of the flower garden that stretches along both banks of the Mileševka. Fresh, fragrant trout and juicy and tasty veal under the bell arrive. Everything is homemade, including fruit juice. We take a break from the gourmet food enjoying the view of the delightful surroundings and the Mileševka River, which is incessantly murmuring, so it is difficult to speak and be heard.

BECAUSE A MIRACULOUS TREE GROWS ON KAMENA GORA MOUNTAIN

The wooded beauty settled near Prijepolje and stretched up to Crni Vrh peak at almost 1500 meters. A paradise for hikers and lovers of long walks in pristine nature. There are about 80 kilometres of walking and 40 kilometres of cycling paths. The accommodation includes rural households, ethno-camps and ethno-villages. An active stay in nature and healthy meals are guaranteed.

But it is widely known for one peculiarity. A tree of unusual shape and beauty rises from a golden-green glade, dotted with raspberry plantations. High, huge, branched. Miraculous and marvellous. It has kept secrets for almost five centuries. Locals call it the Holy Pine. It is about 13 meters tall and is believed to be the highest among its brothers in Serbia. Taking some rest under this sage and enjoying the view is an invaluable experience. All around it, Serbia is covered with hills and forests.

BECAUSE AT PS PRIJEPOLJE, THE RESPITE IS SHORT BUT SWEET

We walked, breathed fresh air, but we also drove a lot, and even our four-wheeler needed some more strength for our return trip. It will be taken care of by the skilled and friendly staff of the recently renovated PS Prijepolje, and we will manage on our own. We take a look at croissants and raw bars. A sweet or energetic snack is best accompanied by Drive Cafe coffee. An inescapable little pleasure. With a cup of the black beverage, the road is always more awake and certainly more pleasurable.

“I travelled all around the world, but couldn’t find a place like Jagodina anywhere else,” says the famous adventurer Jovanča Micić in the famous Yugoslav film Journey around the World, based on the comedy play by Branislav Nušić. We have not visited the entire Serbia yet, so it is difficult to judge fairly, but we are tempted to see for ourselves whether there is any truth in this sentence of the proud inhabitants of the city over the Belica River, in central Pomoravlje District.

BECAUSE JAGODINA IS A CITY ABOUNDING IN ACTIVITIES

It is not known with certainty whether the first human communities in this area appeared in the old or new Stone Age, but the first preserved written data on Jagodina dates from the end of the 14th century, in a letter from Princess Milica. Throughout history, it was also called Jagodna and, for a few decades after World War II during the communist period, Svetozarevo, after the socialist Svetozar Marković. And it got its today’s name either from the red sweet fruit (“jagoda” is a Serbian word for strawberry), or, as romantics like to say, from the innkeeper named Jagoda, who had an inn on the nearby hill. She would serve guests during the day and, at night, in the moonlight, she would attack and rob rich caravans by the road accompanied by her 40 robbers. Well, who’s more intimidating – Ali Baba or the lady innkeeper from Jagodina?

Today, Jagodina is not a large town, but it offers quite a variety of content. It does not have a pedestrian zone, but the main street closes to traffic in the summer evenings. Otherwise, it is busy, full of shops, cafes, restaurants, and you can see some buildings with beautiful, decorated facades. It leads to the main square with the monument to the Liberator. The monumental obelisk made of white marble is dedicated to the people of Jagodina who fell for freedom. A tribute was also paid to the Red Army fighters who died for the liberation of several Serbian cities within the complex known as the Russian Cemetery. One of the most interesting cultural institutions is the Museum of Naïve and Marginal Art. Housed in a magnificent building, it houses a collection of unconventional art featuring more than 3,000 works by 400 authors from around thirty countries around the world. A great opportunity to get a glimpse into a slightly different world of art. You should also walk to the Old Church, dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, the endowment of Prince Miloš from 1818, and about half a century newer church of Saints Peter and Paul.

And during the hot summer days, the most appealing place to visit is, of course, the Aqua Park waterpark. It is quite large, with many pools, slides, and various water attractions for children and adults, as well as sports fields and catering facilities. And throughout the year, you can visit Potok excursion site or Đurđevo Brdo, as it is also called. Pride of the city and, frankly, one of the most beautiful and tidy excursion cites we have seen. An oasis of greenery, trees, colourful flowers, fountains, holiday benches, walking paths, open air theatre with seats, and an artificial waterfall, the first one in Serbia. Tastefully and moderately landscaped. A modernly equipped playground for children has also been built here. Right next to the Zoo for all-day entertainment of the youngest.

The new symbol of the city is a metal globe on which fictional character Jovanča Micić sits, surrounded by suitcases, and it is inscribed with the aforementioned statement of his. It is placed on the roundabout at the entrance to the city from the direction of Ćuprija. A cute announcement of the experience that awaits you in Jagodina. And, if you wish to take a glimpse of some warrior history, it is a good idea to go to Captain Koča’s Oak on the bank of the Great Morava River. It is next to this centuries-old tree that Captain Koča Anđelković led the local people to liberation from the Ottomans.

BECAUSE THE JAGODINA WAX MUSEUM IS UNIQUE IN SERBIA

It is located next to the Aqua Park. On the outside, it does not look like a museum, and on the inside, it could use some refinement. It is divided into two rooms. One includes figures of famous Serbian athletes – Vlade Divac, Sale Đorđević, and Novak Đoković. In the second room, there are domestic and foreign politicians, historical and ecclesiastical figures, artists, and two wax figures of Nikola Tesla – as an old and young man. There are only three ladies presented – Desanka Maksimović, the first Serbian female poet, nun Jefimija, and heroine Milunka Savić. There are huge differences in the representation of various figures – from the fine ones, through those that can be recognized by their characteristic garments, to the ones where the freedom of artistic expression has been so playful that it is necessary to read the nameplate in order to get an idea who the wax figure represents. Among the best exhibits, and perhaps the most faithful one, is the portrayal of Vuk Bojović, the long-time director of the Belgrade Zoo, who pioneered the idea of establishing the museum. In the central part there is a figure of King Petar I Karađorđević on the day of his coronation with a large mantle and closed carriages from the 19th century, which are believed to have been at the court of King Milan Obrenović.

It is certainly not a branch of the famous Madame Tussauds Museum, but it is the only one in Serbia, so it should be visited out of curiosity, for fun.

BECAUSE THE JAGODINA HOMELAND MUSEUM IS THE HERITAGE OF AN IMPORTANT NEOLITHIC COLLECTION

It is housed in a beautiful building that used to belong to the Sokol movement built in 1935 in the main city street. There are officially five departments, but they are all presented in the same room. The most valuable is the Neolithic collection of the Starčevo and Vinča cultures. Fossils of mammals, a collection of minerals, numismatic items, medieval weapons, metal filigree belts and jewellery, folk art, traditional garments and handicrafts, spiritual objects, and the collection The Birth of Glassmaking in Serbia are also on display. There must be many interesting exhibits, but it is difficult to study them all in detail and read the explanations in a cramped space and inside full showcases. It’s a pity. Unfortunately, it shares the fate of many museums in smaller areas in Serbia, which for various reasons do not have the opportunity to display their treasures in a way that would attract the attention of visitors, which they certainly deserve.

BECAUSE THE BEST ONES DRIVE ON THE JAGODINA KARTING TRACK WITH THE SUPPORT OF G-DRIVE FUEL 

Karts seem to be getting more popular, so there are two go-kart tracks in Jagodina. The new one, 745 meters long, is designed to allow combining three types of different tracks. Illuminated by modern lighting and equipped with the MyLaps timing system, it meets all the requirements for excellent and safe entertainment for casual enthusiasts, but also for precision driving of professionals. Jagodina is one of the hosts of the Open Championship organized by the Sports Car and Karting Association of Serbia. The best Serbian kart drivers and competitors from several countries show their skills and courage here. Since the winner can sometimes be decided by only a centisecond, everything must be perfect, including the fuel. Karting is a machine, but the old saying can also be applied to it: “Choose what you consume if you want to be strong”. And to be a top-notch machine, its engines consume premium G-Drive fuel. Pure, powerful energy to accelerate and win new records.

Jagodina will host the competition on the last weekend of June, as well as the final clash of the best on the last weekend of September, when the winners of the general placement and individual categories will be announced, and they will be awarded valuable G-Drive prizes and recognitions. And don’t forget that even the greatest champions need support, so attending one of the planned races, with the exploration of the surrounding area, can be a great weekend entertainment. The excitement is certainly guaranteed.

RACING CALENDAR

•  June 2, 2024 – Autokomerc Karting Centre
•  June 30, 2024 – Karting Centre Jagodina (right circle)
•  September 1, 2024 – Kula Motodrom
•  September 29, 2024 – Karting Centre Jagodina (left circle)

BECAUSE THE JAGODINA ZOO IS AN ESCAPE TO THE WILD HEART OF THE CITY  

It is the motto of the first zoo south of Belgrade. It is not very large, but it is a home of about 250 animals of about fifty species. From exotic fish and snakes, always amusing monkeys, lovable lemurs and alpacas, beautiful white wolves, to serious beasts such as the African lion, tiger, Asian black bear, and European brown bear. But the most popular inhabitant is the giraffe, which is called… well, of course Jovanča. Meeting the tallest land animal of unusual build, graceful gait, and soft eyes is a real pleasure. If only he had a partner of his own kind.

It is clean, tidy, and landscaped with flowers and trees, some of which are rare specimens, so you can learn a thing or two about plant life, as well. After hanging out with wild animals, you can relax and grab a bite in the restaurant or buy a souvenir to remember your visit.

BECAUSE CRNI VRH MOUNTAIN IS A GREEN OASIS

About a 20-minute drive away from Jagodina, along the road that has good and patched parts, and partly along a gravel road, you can reach the plateau from which you have a beautiful view of the surrounding slopes covered with dense forest. Crni Vrh Mountain is named after them, and its name means “black peak”. A little bit higher there is a mountain lodge. The chatty host explains everything in detail in a gazebo in the garden where all nature lovers can rest and invigorate. At the top, 707 meters high, there is a TV relay, and a little lower there is a military facility, so we are warned that it is allowed to go in that direction. But there are many other marked hiking trails to explore this rather pristine area. One leads to the most abundant spring in Šumadija, the spring in Gornje Štiplje village, and the other leads to the monastery of Jošanica, which dates from the time of Prince Lazar. In addition to hikers, the host proudly says that Crni Vrh is visited by more and more visitors. In addition to clean air and lush greenery, it can bring additional joy to the youngest. Apart from friendly dogs that follow you as soon as they see you, there are donkeys and small horses on the large estate. A real rural and mountain idyll.

BECAUSE BORA LABYRINTH IS THE LONGEST MAZE IN EUROPE

We turned a little off the road and headed to Batočina, to check out the longest natural hedge maze in Europe. At the entrance we are greeted by a huge transformers robot. The area of several hectares is teeming with entertainment. Giant inflatable bouncy castles with slides, a mini golf course, playgrounds for toddlers, a huge trampoline park divided by age groups for safety, a wooden boat…In the enclosed area, there is a Hobbit house which even adults can enter, a game room and tables with countless pieces of the most famous building blocks in the world. But we came for the maze. The 3.5 km long trail, bordered by a high hedge, leads over or under six bridges of different colours that serve as observation posts, and branches into countless possibilities, as well as dead-end alleys. Although there is a map at the entrance with marked possible paths, which must be photographed, many get lost, so the “rescuers”, who watch from the high tower, have their hands full. An excellent test of resourcefulness and patience.

Although its name only emphasizes that it a labyrinth, this is actually a large amusement park for all ages, the content of which is constantly being supplemented. It is open on Fridays, Mondays, and weekends, so you can choose a day for entertainment with friends or a cheerful family all-day gathering.

BECAUSE YOU CAN HAVE AN ABUNDANT MEAL IN MORAVSKI KONACI ETHNO VILLAGE

There are many places in Jagodina where good food is guaranteed, but we are already well away from it. We’ll have to go somewhere along the motorway. The Moravski Konaci ethno village has a good reputation. It really is a rural setting. At the entrance, there is a wooden chapel, then comes a part with farm animals, cabins for guests, a granary, fruit trees and flowers, and finally a restaurant on an artificial pond. Everything is made from wood, there are some antique items and traditional folk details to complete the experience. And what about the food? Beef soup, a plate with a variety of cheese, meat skewers, a pork loin baked in kaymak cream with potatoes, and a tortilla spiced with garlic… like a Sunday lunch that Grandma prepares for the loved ones.

After a few mountain adventures, it is time to explore some plains. Let us head to the heart of the peaceful, hospitable Bačka region to discover its famous canals, mingle with its diverse inhabitants. All that seasoned with the sound of engines and the scent of gasoline.

BECAUSE KULA IS A BEAUTIFUL TOWN

It is one of the oldest medieval settlements in Bačka. It was named, presumably, after a smaller earthen fortification, the tower, where at the beginning of the 16th century there was a Turkish military garrison and a smaller number of Serbs and Bunjevci ethnic group living around. The earliest written mention of Kula is in the inventory of Count Ferenc Velešni’s possessions from 1652. After it was annexed to the Habsburg Monarchy, in the middle of the 18th century, the town was inhabited by Hungarians, and later by Germans. Today, it is a distinct multi-ethnic environment, and the peculiarity of the municipality of Kula is the largest community of Rusyns in Serbia. It lies on the Great Bačka Canal. It is always the most pleasant and the most peaceful by the water. Morning coffee is being sipped in several cafes, the swans and ducks have already flown away, the fishermen are patiently waiting for their catch, and the cyclists are already going somewhere, but slowly, because there is no rush here, never. In the center there is a rather large green area, always alive, being the meeting place of all generations. There are cafes, restaurants, boutiques and various shops around. The diversity of the population is reflected in the religious buildings, so one may see in Kula the Orthodox Church of St. Mark from the middle of the 19th century, the Roman Catholic Church of St. George built in 1770 during the reign of Maria Theresa, and a Christian Adventist church. Take a walk to the narrow streets over the small bridges adorned with new, multi-colored facades.

In the vicinity are the Milisavljević winery, at the entrance to the village of Lipar, and the old abandoned wine cellars in Crvenka. They were founded at the end of the 18th century by the Danube Swabians. Of the 650 cellars dug into the Telečka Plain, 34 have remained, but they are neglected. If they were restored, they would undoubtedly be a unique tourist attraction of the region.

BECAUSE THE CARTINGS ARE BUZZING IN KULA WITH THE SUPPORT OF G-DRIVE FUEL

Tires squeal, brakes screech, engines roar, piercingly and continuously. Full throttle ahead ─ a real race against time. The fight for every inch of the winding 622-meter long track, coated with special asphalt for full enjoyment in sports driving, with, of course, all safety standards applied. The individual lap times and each driver’s total are printed on the large screen. A group of fans encourage their friends to chase down the stronger small cars and take a few more seconds off. Several bikers are carefully preparing mini versions of polished two-wheelers. They soon hit the track. They ride elegantly, bring their pets to their knees, and at the end a little exhibition as a greeting to the delighted onlookers. It requires a lot of skill, but also courage. Way to go people!

This is how the Kula Motodrome looks like in the early afternoon on a weekday. They say it gets even busier and more exciting on weekends. The hottest atmosphere is expected on May 12th, as well as the first week of September, when Kula hosts races of the Open Championship of the Serbian Sports Karting Association with the support of G-Drive fuel. Not only the best Serbian kart racers will compete, but also competitors from several countries in the region. Since sometimes the winner is decided by just a hundredth of a second, everything must be perfect, including the fuel. Karting may be a machine, but the old folk saying applies to it too: “Strength enters through the mouth.” To be top-notch, engines are fueled with premium G-Drive fuel – pure, powerful energy for accelerating to new records.

The final showdown is scheduled for the last weekend of September in Jagodina, where the winners will be announced in the overall standings and individual categories, receiving valuable G-Drive prizes and awards. Don’t forget that even the greatest champions need support, so attending one of the planned races, along with exploring the surroundings, can be a great weekend entertainment. Excitement is guaranteed, definitely.

RACE CALENDAR

• May 12, 2024 – Kula Motodrome
• June 2, 2024 – Autokomerc Belgrade
• June 30, 2024 – Karting Center Jagodina (right circuit)
• September 1, 2024 – Kula Motodrome
• September 29, 2024 – Karting Center Jagodina (left circuit)

BECAUSE RUSKI KRSTUR IS THE CAPITAL OF RUSYNS IN SERBIA

The organized settlement of the Rusyns in Bačka began in the mid-18th century, and around 200 Rusyn families arrived in the then Great Krstur or Bački Krstur in 1751. After becoming part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (later Yugoslavia) in 1918, it changed its name to Ruski Krstur to highlight its significance for the majority population in the small town, about ten kilometers from Kula.

The most striking building is the Castle, a school building from 1913. It stands out from the surrounding architecture because it was not originally designed that way. Namely, the Austro-Hungarian Empire ordered the construction of two buildings simultaneously – one in the plains and the other in the mountainous region. However, due to a twist of fate, the plans got mixed up along the way, and a mountainous building arrived in Krstur. Thus, today it is adorned by a beautiful two-story building with extremely steep roofs. And how the plain project withstands mountainous conditions, we have not found out yet.

The Castle is now the seat of the National Council of Rusyns, but also a small museum. On the walls are pictures of graduates from Rusyn and Serbian classes, and there is an ethnographic collection in the attic. Displayed are photographs and documents, tools for old crafts, upholstery, pepper cultivation, and hemp processing, which was used for making various fabrics. There is also a room with furniture, beautifully painted wardrobes, traditional clothing items, and a girl’s dowry. If you visit, you will learn about the various types of ribbons and caps worn by women and how married women were recognized.

In front of the Castle is a playground for children, and a few steps further is the Rusyn Greek Catholic Church of St. Nicholas. Rusyns use the Cyrillic alphabet but they are not Orthodox Christians. The condition set by the Austro-Hungarian Empire for Rusyns to settle in this area was to acknowledge the Pope. The church was built in 1784, and its current appearance was obtained through renovations about fifty years later. Recently, it became a cathedral (cathedral church) because Ruski Krstur was elevated to the status of the Krstur Diocese. The town is a cultural and educational center for Rusyns in Serbia. They have a kindergarten, elementary school, and the only high school where Rusyn is the language of instruction.
A few kilometers away is the sanctuary of Vodica, where, according to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to two girls from Ruski Krstur in 1817. The church was built in 1859 on the site of a wooden chapel that was three years younger. It underwent thorough renovation at the beginning of the 21st century. In the beautifully landscaped courtyard, there is a well with water believed to have healing properties, a covered area for gathering of believers and guests, as well as accommodations because many pilgrims visit.

This fascinating visit is full of insights into the culture, faith, and customs of the Rusyns. Ethnic diversity is a great asset of Serbia, and getting to know the peoples with whom we share the same sky certainly implies better mutual understanding.

BECAUSE THE TWO-CENTURY OLD SLUICE GATE ADORNS MALI STAPAR

Fifteen kilometers from Kula is Mali Stapar (Little Stapar), a settlement in the village of Sivac, home to unusual industrial heritage. The sluice and spillway on the Great Bačka Canal were built in 1802. Of all constructed at that time, it is the only one still in operation. It measures 62.4 meters in length and 8.4 meters in width, with a double-winged iron gate. The last significant renovation was done in the late 1970s. The mill at the spillway was built in 1795, and the Technical Directorate building in 1898. It’s a beautiful structure that, unfortunately, cannot be entered. It offers a bit of history, more technology, and above all, nature. There is a well-kept park surrounding it, but fenced off, so everything can be observed from a distance. Along the canal stretches a promenade among tall, dense trees and a small, unkempt park. Deserted, there is not a soul in sight. Thus, for moments of solitude in awe-inspiring nature, accompanied by the croaking of frogs and chirping of birds, Mali Stapar is the perfect choice.

BECAUSE THE UMBRELLA RESTAURANT WARDS OFF HUNGER

We wanted to grab a bite by the water, but the restaurant by the canal, like some museums, is closed on Mondays. They directed us to the Umbrella restaurant. However, the initial letter of its name written at the entrance is A, not U, but do not be confused, you are in the right place. The interior is nicely decorated, but we opt for the spacious and pleasant garden area, with a grassy section where pavilions are set up to provide shade or shelter from the sun or rain. That is probably where the name comes from. The menu is extensive, offering a mix of local and international dishes, so we choose a bit of both – beef goulash with mashed potatoes, spaghetti Bolognese, and tuna pasta. Both the food and the service are excellent, without any complaints. It truly is a tasty experience “under the umbrella”.

This small town is tucked away almost in the very heart of Serbia, in the fertile region of Middle Pomoravlje, in the shadow of the slopes of the Kučaj Mountains. Filled with the waters of Grza and Crnica rivers, close to the Great Morava river and the fairy-tale nature interwoven with history and spirituality. It is an invitation to mingle not to be turned down.

BECAUSE PARAĆIN IS AN INTERSECTION OF ROADS

This area has been inhabited since early prehistoric times, in Roman times it was a trading post with a horse change station called Sarmates, and its today’s name originates from the settlement, the Parakin’s Ship Square (crossing), mentioned in the charter of Prince Lazar from the 14th century. In the mid-19th century, it gained the status of small town, and today, it lives peacefully on the banks of Crnica, harmoniously, somehow secretly, in accordance with the nearby natural rarities perhaps.

The most beautiful part extends along the Crnica river, which flows into the Great Morava River not far from the city. As limestone rocks make its waters white (bela in Serbian) at the source, it was once called Belica. But after one of the Ottoman iniquities, when the gathered people for a religious holiday were killed and their bodies thrown into the river, the water turned red, and the people started calling the river “black” (crna). Its banks, connected by several white, unusual pedestrian bridges, are adorned with well-maintained green areas with benches for rest. The Petrus Hotel stands out on the river itself, quite shaky on the outside. Above, on a hill, the Holy Trinity Church rises, with its today’s appearance dating from the end of the 19th century. It was built in Serbo-Byzantine style, with Baroque interior, while the icons on the wooden iconostasis came from Russia.

The city center is dominated by the Monument to the Fallen Warriors of World War I, and along the promenade there are many boutiques, cafés with gardens and pastry shops, but the famous traditional “Vasa’s cake” is nowhere to taste. The original recipe was created right here, and is a symbol of family love. Namely, tradition says that out of gratitude to her son-in-law, the mother-in-law made the most delicious cake made of almonds, walnuts and oranges, and out of respect, she named it “Vasina cake” after him. However, the tradition seems to have died down. Too bad, it could be a strong and tasty asset of the city for its visitors. And the people of Paraćin could then be affectionately called “Vasinci” and not “Džigerani” (derived from the Turkish word for “liver). They got their nickname during the visit of Prince Miloš Obrenović. As they did not know how to treat him with hospitality, they asked the people of Jagodina for advice. And they decided, witty as they are, to make a prank, proposing liver. Instead of satisfaction with the feast, the prince said in anger: “Liver, what kind of meat are you? People of Paraćin, what kind of people are you?” We did not ask whether the liver was banished forever from the culinary offer of Paraćin, but Vasa’s cake apparently was, unfortunately.

BECAUSE A CONTEMPORARY DINOSAUR LIVES IN THE LOCAL HERITAGE MUSEUM

It is housed in one of the first two-story buildings and probably the most impressive one in the city. The house of Judge Petar Ružić built in the 1870s. The setting is modest, the interior needs a little tweaking, but there are interesting things to see. In addition to the prehistoric, ancient, numismatic, and ethnological collection, the natural history collection is particularly interesting. Skulls and horns of “orijaš” deer, ibex, cave bear, and crocodile head fossil, from period when the Pannonian Sea was a lake, are on display. Its age is estimated at between 20 and 50 million years. So, the curator explains that it lived together with dinosaurs. Well, we learned that Kika and Vika, the mammoths, are not the oldest inhabitants of these areas, but that the title is held by Mr. Crocodile himself. The first floor features an overview of the economic development of Paraćin from a Turkish “kasaba” to a European town, and part of it was, of course, dedicated to the famous Paraćin glass.

BECAUSE THE DRIVE GO APP SAVES TIME

Time is money, as businesspeople often say, and most others do not like to waste it, much less wait in line. Modern technologies also came to the rescue. The Drive.Go mobile app allows drivers to pay at the refueling point itself, without leaving the vehicle. No crowds or nudges, quick and easy. And as summer approaches, even without sweating. Download the app and beat the heat. And spend the time you saved at your choice, as you wish.

BECAUSE THE PETRUSH AREA IS A SMALL HOLY MOUNTAIN OF ATHOS

The monumental complex of medieval buildings from the second half of the 14th and the first half of the 15th century covers the area around Crnica and Grza rivers. In this area, there was a border, the Krajina county, which Emperor Dušan assigned to the county prefect Vukosav and his two sons to administer. It was named after the Petrus fortress, built in the 12th century, on an elevation above Crnica near the village of Zabrega.

The village can be reached by road to the Ravanica monastery. There are signposts. It is interesting that a private estate needs to be crossed. Its owners do not charge for the passage, for now. You can also go along two wooden bridges, so if you drive a “muscle car”, it may be better to leave it on the way and walk along the river bank. The scenes are truly fairytale-like. We reach the St. John Monastery, with outer walls partially renovated, and niches where people put icons. On the other bank, there is a picnic area with a walled part for the preparation of various delicacies. Two excursionists are already preparing fish soup for their little gang, which joins a while. They invited us to join them and made welcome coffee. Everything was clean all around. Impeccable. Locals and local associations take great care of their paradise and often clean it themselves. They treat both nature and their guests as good hosts. Way to go.

A dirt pathway leads to the remnants of the fortification through the forest. An enchanted one. Giant deciduous trees make high natural corridors with their branched crowns. Thorough peace and tranquility. Wild tame. A different world. At the top, the remains of the former fortress – some walls and a cruciform rock. Sit down on the blooming grass or olden stones and enjoy the view.

Numerous churches and monasteries in the Moravian style were erected in the area, so the area is called Mala Sveta Gora (Little Athos). Today, the remains of the monasteries of Namasija or Manasinjac and Blaga Marija Petruška, the churches of St. George, Holy Sunday and the Holy Archangels can be seen. An incredible blend of history, spirituality and enchanting nature.

BECAUSE THE SPRINGS OF GRZA IS A FAIRYTALE

About twenty kilometers from Paraćin, there is the Nature Monument “Vrelo Grze” (Grza springs). One of the most amazing natural corners of the homeland. The Grza river springs at the foot of the South Kučaj mountain, at almost 500 meters of altitude. Water is flowing from several springs. Pure, crystal-clear, cold. Sliding down from stone cascades, dressed in velvety moss. Foaming and babbling constantly. As if it was whispering gently to the forest, its companion and its protector, in a language that can only be understood by the soul. You can rest on the benches or sit on large stones by the water – the closer the experience is, the more vivid, the more real it is. You can continue enjoying the atmosphere by exploring the surroundings, walking along the footpaths, through the forest, which lead to the lookout points. Downstream you will spot two blue-emerald lakes.

But wherever a person goes, care must be taken. It would be necessary to fill the holes with boards on those lovely wooden bridges over the Grza river, regularly take out the trash and install bins, of which there are only several, so even the most thoughtful ones have nowhere to dispose of it. It is not always negligent persons’ fault.

There are accommodation facilities, sports grounds, restaurants and cafés at the excursion site, and you can refresh yourself, but also spend a few days in this true jewel of nature. Nearby, in Lešje, there is the monastery of the Most Holy Mother of God from mid 14 century.

BECAUSE TROUT ROASTED IN OGNJIŠTE IS UNFORGETTABLE

Out of several restaurants on the excursion site, we chose the one made of stone and wood, appropriately named “Ognjište” (hearth). Because nature is home to everyone. The talkative and smiling hostess recommends “pljeskavica” on kaymak and neck. They’re melting. And the trout from the mountain of Rtanj, while she proudly smiles. And is there anything from the mystical mountain pyramid that isn’t magical? And besides, it is skillfully and experiencedly prepared. It is the perfect place for families because there is a spacious courtyard where the little ones can run carefree, while the grownups can take tame and enjoy in the perfection of taste. An excellent choice to spice up our encounter with the unreal beauty of Grza with a bite.

“The place where the friends are” is the slogan of this small town on the grove hills of Eastern Serbia, embraced by three Timok rivers, within reach of the fertile Stara Planina Mountain. Few travellers will decide to head towards this town formerly known as Gurgusovac, probably unaware that it features a diverse historical heritage, natural rarities, traditional domestic dining, and the charm that enchanted even one famous Frenchman.

BECAUSE KNJAŽEVAC IS A SMALL SERBIAN VENICE

The cave drawing in the area of the village of Gabrovnica testifies that the area was inhabited even in prehistoric times. It was inhabited by various tribes. Hordes of Huns and Avars passed through it. It was visited by many armies, and it often changed its lords, until its final liberation from the Ottomans and annexation to Serbia in 1833. According to one tradition, Gurgusovac was named after Grgur, the eldest son of Serbian Despot Đurađ Branković, and according to another story, it was named after pigeons (Serbian – gurgusan), which were numerous in the surrounding forests. Then, in 1859, Prince Miloš Obrenović came to visit the town and ordered the burning down of the infamous Gurgusovac Tower, which was a dungeon and a symbol of darkness and slavery at the time of the ruling Karađorđević Family. And so, in Miloš’s honour, it was renamed Knjaževac (literally translated as “the prince’s town”). Only the wall and the entrance gate have been preserved from the former Serbian Bastille, and the space is now used for public and cultural events.

Today, the town, tucked between the gentle plateaus of Tresibaba and Tupižnica mountains, in the hinterland of Stara Planina, is affectionately called Serbian Venice or Little Venice. It is spread on the banks of two Timok rivers, the Svrljiški Timok and Trgoviški Timok, which merge into the Beli Timok near this town. Seven small bridges were built over the rivers, the most famous of which is the stone one. Along the water, there are promenades with rows of linden and chestnut trees. They are most captivating in the spring when they get their leaves and spread their lovely scent. The spirit of old times vibrates with the Old Town. It is divided into the upper part, containing stores and craft shops dating from the period of Ottoman rule, and the lower part with inns and taverns with residential units on the first floor that were built after the liberation. It’s very colourful and appealing. The gratitude to the people of Timok who gave their lives for freedom was expressed by the people of Knjaževac in the Memorial Park, which is also a representation of historical events from 1804 until the end of the Second World War. The greatest decoration of the town is considered by many to be the church of St. George. The construction began in 1833 in honour of the first visit of Prince Miloš. During the Serbian-Ottoman War, it was burned down in 1876, but it was quickly restored. In its treasury, it keeps the Gospel from 1805 and the remains of the old iconostasis.

The picturesque architecture of Knjaževac was immortalized by the famous French architect, painter, and writer of Swiss origin, Le Corbusier. When the road took him here at the beginning of the 20th century, he was so inspired that he took a pencil and made a drawing of Knjaževac, which is kept in the National Museum in Belgrade. More than a century ago, the French pickiness and the Swiss pettiness succumbed in front of, as many say, the most beautiful city of eastern Serbia. And today? It should be cleaned and washed first, and then, dilapidated and filthy facades of many buildings, some of which are quite striking, should be restored. Then, it could truly be Miloš’s pride and worthy of its nickname.

But unlike the city, its surrounding areas seem to get a lot of care. Just five kilometres away, on the coast of the Svrljiški Timok, there is a spa, Rgoška Banja, known as Banjica among the local people. At the spring of the healing water, a natural lake was formed, with a constant water temperature of 28 degrees. It was found to be quite healing, so the small spa was turned into a well-maintained excursion site with a parking lot, outdoor furniture, a children’s playground, and a small restaurant. The water from the thermal spring is transported to swimming pools in the nearby Banjica Sports and Recreation Centre, where there is an Olympic swimming pool, a children’s water park, sports grounds, a restaurant, and a small spa. In winter, the large pool is covered so you can have a swim in the beneficial warm water throughout the year.

BECAUSE THE HOMELAND MUSEUM IS THE HERITAGE OF THE RICH HISTORY OF THE REGION

It is housed in a building from the beginning of the 20th century, a former house of the rich Sibinović family, which was renovated for the needs of the museum. In the left wing, there is an archaeological collection, which contains more than 2000 objects that have been found on the territory of the municipality of Knjaževac, presented chronologically and thematically. In the right wing, there is an art collection consisting of about 1000 paintings, graphics, drawings, icons, sculptures, reproductions, and other objects of visual art, as well as an ethnological collection. A special and honorary place is occupied by double-knit wool socks. The most beautiful part of the traditional folk costume of the Knjaževac region was created in the period from the 18th to the 20th century. They are unique in the world. Traditional folk costumes and civil clothes, fabrics, furniture, homemade items, musical instruments, technical devices, and items from ordinary life are on display. A varied and interesting setting.

You should also take a peek at the Museum of the City of Knjaževac, in the house of Aleksa Aca Stanojević, a renowned radical and close associate of Nikola Pašić. In addition to his personal items, many valuable objects obtained from old Knjaževac families from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century are on display.

BECAUSE THE VILLAGE OF RAVNA WAS A ROMAN FORTRESS

About ten kilometres from Knjaževac, in the fertile valley of the Beli Timok River, on two hectares, lies the oldest military fortress in the Timok region. The construction of Timacum Minus began in the middle of the 1st century. Within its walls, you could find a granary, military buildings, and a treasury. Due to its important position and proximity to ore deposits, a civilian settlement soon developed next to the military camp, as well as necropolises, villas, and temples dedicated to various Roman deities. The settlement was destroyed in a fire in the middle of the 5th century. Today, excavated parts of the walls and some buildings within the walls can be seen, and only the southern gate, which dominates the area, has been restored. It is known that excavations are carried out slowly and carefully, so diligent archaeologists will surely discover more interesting items.

Nearby is the Ravna archaeological and ethnological park, a combination of ancient, Roman past, folk architecture and rural life from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. In the courtyard of the old village school, a lapiradium was formed with gravestones, honorary monuments, and altars from Timacum Minus, while some items found in an ancient settlement are displayed in the school building. The rest of the space is dedicated to the rural community of the Timok region at the end of the 19th century. You can visit the old Moravian house, built in Bundwerk construction style, which was moved from Stara Planina, within which there is a fireplace and, of course, a tripod, a barn, a replica of an ancient and traditional pottery stove, a cauldron for making brandy, and a house in whose basement there is an exhibition space on winemaking of the region. Everything is very nicely designed and presented.

You can explore some ancient excavations, then take a walk through a Serbian village of two centuries ago, and then return to the present. And see its most exciting and most gentle aspects. Come, visit, experience, and decide.

BECAUSE ŽDRELO GORGE RESEMBLES GREEK METEORA

Do not expect a rocky and religious miracle that the Greeks boast of, but you will certainly find wilderness, as wild as it can get. You should follow the road to the village of Stogazovac. Along the way, there are unpleasant scenes of crumbling, collapsed, and abandoned houses. When you reach the information board, tuck your vehicle somewhere, and start walking along the dirt road. Enjoy the environment where the most amazing movies could be made. In the spring, when nature flourishes, it must resemble a fairy tale. But now, under the heavy clouds of the frowning sky, it seems unfathomably mysterious. The gorge, about 300 meters long, is cut into karst rocks, whose age is estimated at 120 million years, and the highest cliffs rise to 80 meters above the Zubetinačka River. Precisely because of the rock configuration, it resembles the Greek Meteora, so the people nicknamed Ždrelo the Meteora of Knjaževac. In the riverbed, there is a spring of “holy water”, which the locals call the “Dining Room of God”. They say that it has never dried up and that it is healing for the eyes. The lookout points can be reached by a well-maintained two-kilometre-long pedestrian path. Along the way is Vidovdan church, which, according to tradition, was built by the Prince Lazar. Today’s building was built on old foundations in the first half of the last century. The road further leads to the highest cliff where a fence and a large cross are placed. The view from there is unforgettable.

BECAUSE EVERYTHING IS HOME-MADE IN THE MERAKLIJSKI PODRUM RESTAURANT

Honestly, we didn’t know where to dine. We consulted with a modern know-it-all, a mobile phone. From the offered restaurants in the area, we chose by name – “meraklijski” (Serb. enjoying good food, drink, and music) always sounds tempting. Again, we call on modern technology to show us the way to the hidden alley and the barely visible Meraklijski podrum sign. Everything inside is made of wood, with plaid tablecloths, traditional decoration, and a brick fireplace with a flickering fire. The landlady, who is also the head chef, said that she had just prepared oven-baked beans and fresh buns. We must apologise to the Macedonians, but these beans were tastier and juicier. She recommends pork fillet, topped with traditional cream, kajmak, which melts in the mouth, and hamburger, according to her recipe, finely filled with onions. And a plate of cow cheese, homemade, perfect. We ate and drank enough for a month, and we spent a reasonable amount of money. A walk around Knjaževac certainly does not lead to this tucked-away corner with traditional hospitality and food, but when your stomach gets cramps, we recommend calming it down here.

BECAUSE THE DRIVE.GO APP IS THE FASTEST FRIEND ON THE ROAD

Sometimes every minute counts. But speeding is never smart, and it is often a dangerous solution. So, if you are in a hurry, it is the safest decision to save some time at the petrol station. The Drive.Go mobile app allows you to pay at the refuelling point, without leaving the vehicle. It’s simple, in just a few steps – by scanning the QR code and pressing pay. In no time. Spending just the time needed to refuel the vehicle. This gives you enough time to drive safely to your desired destination.

We remember our glorious ancestors and their long-lasting, persistent, and heroic fight for liberation from the Ottomans. This year marks 220 years since the beginning of the First Serbian Uprising and almost 190 years since the adoption of the Sretenje Constitution. We are off to the slopes of the Dičina and Klatičevska River, to the homeland of staunch rebels and notable oak trees.

BECAUSE THE WOODEN TAKOVO CHURCH IS THE CHURCH OF REBELS

“Let all the burden fall on our soul, our shoulders, and our honour…”, answered the crowd in unison at the people’s assembly, after Miloš Obrenović announced the beginning of a new rebellion, the Second Serbian Uprising, on the Palm Sunday in 1815. On the hill in front of the wooden church, after the morning liturgy. The attendees then took communion, swore allegiance to each other and headed to the centuries-old oak trees in the nearby valley, where a large group of rebels ready for battle was waiting for them.

The church dedicated to St. George was built in 1795 on the site of a building built around seventy years before it. With a foundation of hewn stone, made of oak planks. A typical example of a wooden cabin built by the builders from Osat in Bosnia. The wooden door is decorated with rich carving. It is rather low. So that one needs to bend when entering and so that Ottomans wouldn’t enter it on horseback. The iconostasis, whose parts were donated by Jovan, Miloš’s brother, is still preserved. It was renovated in 1935. In the churchyard, there is still a stone from which Miloš gave his rebellious speech, and an old village cemetery with tombstones, some of which are decorated with unusual patterns and crosses, and some have a sabre or a rifle carved on them. Not far from the wooden church is the Church of St. Sava in Savinac, the first endowment of Miloš Obrenović in liberated Serbia.

BECAUSE THE MUSEUM OF THE SECOND SERBIAN UPRISING IS A REPRESENTATION OF THE SERBIAN REVOLUTION

It was opened in 1994 at the former elementary school in Takovo, the endowment of King Aleksandar Obrenović. It gives an overview of the fight against the Ottomans, from the First Serbian Uprising in 1804 to the end of the first Miloš’s rule in 1839, the so-called Serbian Revolution. The most important exhibits are the remains of the famous old Takovo oak tree, and Paja Jovanović’s masterpiece “The Takovo Uprising”, from 1895. It is the first version of the painting and is larger than the second, which is the property of the National Museum in Belgrade. Other important items include Miloš’s ceremonial suit, albeit a replica, because the original is in Belgrade, and the blanket for his horse. Many other works of art are also on display, including original and copies of documents, publications and correspondence, objects for everyday use, the earliest modern decorations, state symbols, and weapons. A walk around a small but beautifully designed exhibition gives a rather interesting overview of the rebellious Serbia.

A few kilometres away is the residence of Prince Miloš in Gornja Crnuća. Although it has a permanent exhibition setting, it is difficult to see it. Unfortunately, we did not succeed in it. The residence is located on a private property, surrounded by houses and outbuildings, and there is no permanent host. It was renovated about ten years ago and is of great cultural importance. The building is considered the first court of modern Serbia. It is the place of the session of the insurgent assembly, and the capital of the Principality until its relocation to Kragujevac in 1818. After the announcement of the popular rebellion in the wooden church, Miloš went to this residence, put on his most festive suit, unwrapped an insurgent flag and shouted in front of the gathered people: “Here I am, and here is the war with the Ottomans”!

BECAUSE THE TAKOVO OAK TREE REPRESENTS THE FREEDOM OF SERBIA

A few kilometres from the Museum, there is a historically significant place, decorated in the memory of the Second Serbian Uprising, the liberation from the Ottomans, and the creation of the modern Serbian state. The area from the slope is dominated by the monumental bronze monument “The Takovo Uprising”, the work of Petar Ubavkić, which represents the moment of the declaration of the uprising. It overlooks a wide field of a few hectares, which is adorned with several monuments. A stone path leads to the obelisk “Under the Takovo Oak Tree”, which was built by the grateful people of the Rudnik area at the end of the 19th century. Made of marble, with carved insurgent and state insignia, it also includes the verses of Aleksa Nenadović: “This oak tree will dry up during time and the stone pillar will collapse, but Serbia will always stand straight and mention the name of Miloš with pride.” Behind it is a meadow on which the summer house of Aleksandar Obrenović should be rebuilt, once a three-story building with 36 rooms, with its exterior resembling the villas of the Austrian aristocracy and with its interior in the style of Šumadija region in Serbia. The castle of Takovo was destroyed in a fire in 1917 under unexplained circumstances. There is a sign of the place of the old pedunculate oak tree, under which the battle for freedom began. It was a real monstrosity. 23 meters high and with the trunk circumference of nine meters. However, over time, it began to deteriorate, so the people linked the fate of the oak tree to the fate of the Obrenović dynasty. Namely, the larger branch broke off in 1860, foreshadowing the death of Miloš, the smaller one eight years later when Mihailo was killed, and in 1901 the storm uprooted it, announcing the collapse of the Obrenović dynasty. However, during his life, Prince Mihailo renewed the sacred Serbian tree. The successor was planted in 1865. It was leafy until the 1990s, and now it is a dried-up natural sculpture. A century later, a sapling of the third Takovo oak tree was planted opposite it. In honour of the unforgettable words of Prince Mihailo that “as long as there a Serbian state and people exist, there shall be an oak tree growing in Takovo as a symbol of freedom and independence”.

BECAUSE RAJAC IS A LITTLE HEAVEN ON EARTH

After an exciting walk through the history, it is worth taking a breath of fresh air and allowing impressions to sink in. In nature, of course. Nearby, about fifteen kilometres from the notable oak trees, there is Rajac, a favourite excursion site of many. The area on Suvobor Mountain stretches at an altitude of 600 to 850 meters. According to tradition, it got its name from old travel writers, who saw it as a heaven on earth (Serbian word “raj” means heaven). A lot of people would agree. It is best to get to know it on foot. There are several landscaped trails, so you can choose which suits you best. The length and names of the trails are highlighted on a wooden board next to the mountain lodge, in the centre of the place. And whether they diverge along the way and whether there are signposts at the crossroads, you will find out for yourself. But it doesn’t matter if you stray a little. Through gentle, spacious meadows and glades interwoven with clear streams and rivers, through forests of beech, oak, birch, fir, and pine trees, the connoisseurs of Rajac say that you will surely reach an area of unexpected natural beauty, probably even a cave. You may also encounter a bunny, a fox, a roe deer, and even a wild boar. Or hosts of chalets who will surely show you the way, and possibly offer some refreshment.

Natural beauties also exhibit traces of their history. At the centre, near the mountain lodge, there is a monument to the brave fighters of the Battle of Kolubara. Next to it is a scythe sculpture, in honour of the famous manifestation “Mowing on Rajac”, which is held every year. A notice board has also been set up, indicating catering and accommodation facilities and natural beauties, so it is necessary to study it before embarking on an adventure. For adrenaline seekers, Rajac is also known for paragliding. It is perhaps the most beautiful way to experience this small natural paradise of Suvobor Mountain.

BECAUSE THE RESTAURANT TIP-TOP IS TRUE TO ITS NAME

On the Ibarska main road, near the exit for the Miloš the Great motorway, we stop for some refreshment. In the pleasant interior, we are welcomed by a hospitable lady. After a mountain walk, veal broth is always a great choice, with freshly baked, hot buns. As the taverns by the road are known for their delicious barbecue, we do not think much. We order dry-cured pork neck and ćevapi dish, with hot peppers and refreshing salads, with a piece of goat cheese. Food and service are almost completely in accordance with the name – Tip-Top. And prices are more than decent. Warm recommendation for a break and traditional abundant food.

BECAUSE COFFEE SHOULD ALWAYS BE TOP-QUALITY

We always leave the pleasure of having the black drink for our favourite places – NIS Petrol and Gazprom. The reason is simple – the coffee is always fresh and top-notch. And we can choose the coffee type and size of the cup. It suits every taste and desire. Sometimes we take a break in the Drive Cafe restaurant, and sometimes we take the coffee away and enjoy it on the way home so that we can enjoy its pleasant scent during the entire trip.