An Indian summer has given us a few more days to enjoy the benefits of nature. Instead of the West, whose seductive power we have already confirmed, we turn our compass towards the East. Always mystical and enchanting, full of surprises. We are going to the mining region of our homeland and the landscapes where nature still successfully resists man.

BECAUSE THE LAZAR’S CANYON IS A MYSTERIOUS PLACE

Wow! We couldn’t help but exclaim when our eyes saw the wonderfully carved cliffs covered with a green carpet. From a landscaped platform near the end of Lazar’s Canyon… Almost vertical giant walls overgrown with diverse vegetation extend their rocky hands to the other riverbank. To bridge the water. In some places, it is as if they are touching. And here and there, it seems they are tightly hugging. Somewhere, the boulders are indeed entrapped, and the two banks are connected. What’s at their bottom cannot be seen. The fence is installed at a safe distance from the edge. Do not even try to skip it, it is too steep, slippery, and dangerous. Sit back and enjoy. Here the words are silenced, and the imagination becomes playful.

The Lazar’s River and its tributaries – Demižlok, Mikulj and Vejska River – cut through the limestone massif of the eastern rim of the Kučaj Mountains and made a gorge. It is the longest and deepest in eastern Serbia.

With a multitude of crevices, ravines, and caves. The cliffs rise above 350 meters, and in the narrowest part, the width is less than seven meters. Like scenes from a fairy tale or a science fiction movie. Whether it was chosen as a sanctuary by elves and wizards is unknown. It’s not explored enough. But it is certainly a habitat of a diverse world of plants and animals. It is one of the most important biodiversity centres in the Balkans. This is the home of the Crimean Pine and relic species – yew tree and Serbian ramonda, a delicate purple flower.

„There used to be dozens of pairs of eagles, thousands of swallows, and chamois would walk everywhere in the evening”, reveals a local explorer whom we met at the viewpoint. „And then tourists rushed in and brought modern technologies, endangered them, and many ran away”, the nature conservationist recalls sadly and angrily the time when the human foot rarely walked here. But there is some good news. A few years ago, a couple of bears were brought in, and now five of them are lounging around the gorge. It seems that the giant growlers took to their new habitat.

Because of its wilderness and inaccessibility, it was a haven for fighters against the Ottoman Empire, whose soldiers did not dare to enter it. And when it comes to its name, there are several stories. According to one, it was named after Lazar, a fighter against Ottomans, who found his refuge here. And after the other story, it got its name after Prince Lazar, who stayed here with his horsemen. And it certainly has that unconquerable character. The name undoubtedly suits it.

Passing through one of the most impassable canyons is a great challenge even for true adventurers. It requires a lot of skill, good fitness, but also courage. It is visited during longer dry periods, in groups and preferably with a guide, with mandatory protective equipment.

We had to take a macadam road to the viewpoint we visited. It is rather steep, with larger stones all along it, so it is necessary to drive carefully. You can also walk along the landscaped path from Lazar’s Cave, the longest one in Serbia. There are several more viewpoints, each providing a completely new and different experience of the homeland. The Lazar Canyon is a natural monument. Its beauty is out of the ordinary and untouched, for now.

BECAUSE BOR IS THE MINING HEART OF SERBIA

It was mentioned for the first time in the 18th century. It began to develop with the opening of the copper mine in 1903, and it gained the status of a city after the Second World War. At the entrance to the city, there is a small square with a revolving monument to a miner. An unusual welcome that immediately lets you know where you have come to. There is a boulevard surrounded by trees leading to the city centre. It’s also a park-museum. On a grassy island between the two directions, there are industrial and mining exhibits. The car does not allow you to observe it carefully, so it’s better to take a walk. The most striking exhibit is a dump truck. Without a photo with this yellow giant, hardly anyone will believe that you visited Bor. Just be careful when crossing the street, it’s pretty busy. It is one of the most beautiful ones we have seen, and certainly the most unusual one.

We reach the Museum of Mining and Metallurgy. The renovation, which is much needed, is in progress, so its cramped space is even more reduced. But there are interesting things to see. The permanent exhibition shows the development of mining and metallurgy from prehistoric times to the present, the history of the Bor Mine, and the most important people. In addition to antique mining tools, the most interesting exhibits include a bronze belt from the 5th century BC and a set of gold women’s jewellery from the 2nd century AD, which is quite sophisticated. The Vlach corner is also charming, and it presents the material and spiritual culture of the Vlach community of Bor and its surroundings. In front of the entrance, sculptures by famous academic artists are exhibited.

Nearby is the central square and a monument to Đorđe (Georg) Weifert, the founder of the Bor Mine. Wander around the city and discover the buildings of French architecture, and if you have enough time, stop by the Zoo. Not far away is Brestovačka Spa, tucked away in fairy-tale nature with thermo-mineral water that even ancient Romans used for healing. And its famous historical buildings are must-see.

Small, but unexpectedly green, likeable and with quite a diverse offer. And its surroundings are even more diverse.

BECAUSE NATURE IS THE MASTER OF STOL

The road to Mt. Stol offers extraordinary scenes. It leads past the mines of the Bor Mine. Its size is difficult to describe. Mountains of excavations. They stretch indefinitely. And huge machines that never seem to turn off their engines. The Jama café used to be open to visitors here, 400 meters underground. It must have been a special experience to chat over coffee or a drink deep in the stomach of the earth.

And while, on the one hand, miners are tirelessly mining, on the other, nature is defying them. With its wilderness and lushness and rocky peaks of Veliki and Mali Krš mountains. The last section of the road to Stol is quite narrow, followed by a macadam road to the Mountain Home. In front of it, there is a field with goals for football competitions, and a few steps further, there is a pond with a decorated seating platform. Here you can relax and breathe in the nature. And enjoy the view of the highest peak, Goli Krš at 1,156 meters of altitude. As well as the view of forests, flower meadows, and limestone formations. The flat peaks and steep cliffs are a true paradise for hikers and scouts, and cyclists and all nature lovers climb the forest trails. Just nature and you. Alone. In perfect harmony.

BECAUSE BOR LAKE IS THE WATER TREASURE OF EASTERN SERBIA

At an almost mountainous altitude, at the foot of Crni Vrh, in the middle of the last century, man-tamed watercourses. Thus, tens of hectares of water oasis were created. Like a mirror reflecting the landscape. We sit on the shore at the Hotel Jezero, in a park with wooden benches with canopies. It could do with some decorating, primarily cleaning. If one ignores man’s arrogance and negligence, the scenes are like in a fairy tale. A magical autumn dance of sun rays and calm water. Complete serenity and quiet. It is only disturbed by a middle-aged gentleman who daringly swims all the way to the other shore. At that moment, a young man arrives on the SUP board and joins him. Thumbs-up to these true water lovers. They are not discouraged by the chilly October water. And, we felt the coldness by just looking at them. So, let’s warm up a bit. With Drive Cafe coffee. It is still warm. Always with a full, perfect taste. And we sweeten it a bit. With Drive Cafe croissants. Fresh and soft. Surrounded by this beauty, they are even sweeter.

Clear Bor Lake, surrounded by deciduous and coniferous forests, green glades, and meadows, attracts more and more visitors. Mostly in the summer, when thousands of swimmers seek refreshment on several landscaped and many wild beaches. Then it becomes lively, cheerful, and noisy. But the sunny autumn suits it. Then it becomes calm, quiet, secluded, and tame.

BECAUSE IN THE RESTAURANT BRAVO, THE FOOD GETS AN APPLAUSE

We are driving towards the highway to Belgrade, believing firmly that there must be a convenient place to tame our hunger along the way. Because there is no place in Serbia with twenty kilometres of roads without a restaurant. There must be one. So, we arrived in Boljevac. The locals directed us to the Bravo café-restaurant. In the very heart of the town, with a large garden and sophisticated interior decoration. Is this a good place to eat, we wonder suspiciously. A friendly young waiter recommends oven-baked gnocchi with chicken. Perfect and abundant. And ribs with cream. They stick to the fingers. They must have been made by a skilled chef. In the end, we unanimously say: “Bravissimo!” to Bravo. So, there are some fancy establishments with traditionally prepared food. We went there by chance, and we are planning to return to it at the first opportunity.

At the foot of the Šar Mountains, on the banks of Bistrica there is a town. From the ancient times, it was important for travellers and traders. Since the beginning of the 18^th century, it has been part of the Serbian state and has been getting stronger since. It flourished during the reign of King Milutin and Emperor Dušan. It is considered a museum of Serbian medieval history. From that time, it inherited 33 Serbian Orthodox shrines and monuments.

THE HOLY ARCHANGELS MONASTERY, THE MOST LUXURIOUS ESTATE OF THE NEMANJIĆ DINASTY

Emperor Dušan built his estate from 1343 to 1352 at the foot of a steep cliff in the Bistrica canyon. The land near the caravan route that connected Skopje and Prizren, the then capitals of the Serbian state. It was built at an older place of worship, where the emperor had recovered after a serious illness. On a huge property, he built two churches – his burial church dedicated to the Holy Archangels, and another one dedicated to Saint Nicholas. Both were made in Raška style, with Serbian-Byzantine elements. The emperor connected the estate to Visegrad, his palace on top of a cliff. “There is nothing equal to it under the sun,” says a 15th century record about the Holy Archangels Church. It impressed with its unsurpassed beauty and intricate floor mosaics. The church was considered the pinnacle of the Serbian religious architecture, a building befitting the most powerful Serbian ruler.

Only a few stones remain of the former splendor and beauty. The Ottomans looted and destroyed monastery in the middle of the 15th century, and razed it to the ground in 1615. The walls covered with marble were used for the construction of the Sinan Pasha mosque in Prizren. The remains were conserved after the Second World War, and monastic life was restored at the end of the 20th century. It was looted and burned down again in 1999, and then in 2004 in the March Pogrom.

Today, the monastery is looked after by a superior, two monks and support staff. Pupils of the Prizren Seminary often help. In addition to the guard at the entrance, the placed is guarded by a pair of cautious, but peaceful German shepherds. You can see the remains of the ramparts, two churches and dining halls, fragments of stone decorations with dragon and lion motifs, an old icon of the Archangel Michael, a model of the church, an improvised altar and a marble slab at the grave site of Dušan the Strong. In 1927, the relics were moved to the Patriarchate, and in 1968, they were solemnly laid to rest in the Church of St. Mark in Belgrade.

We spent the night in Dušan’s lodge, part of the monastery. It is clean and pleasant, with the splashing of Prizrenska Bistrica in the background. All lodgers eat lunch together at 10 o’clock. After the prayer, we share the meal and a relaxed conversation with the monks. After sharing bread with the guardians of Dušan’s legacy and following in his footsteps, we leave more experienced, calmer and stronger.

OUR LADY OF LJEVIŠ IS A RESSURECTING SANCTUARY

In the center of the city, on a small square between two alleys, we see a church with charred and sooty walls, windows patched up with sheet metal and wood, surrounded by barbed wire. The door is closed.

It is an endowment of King Milutin and is dedicated to the Dormition of the Mother of God. The temple was built in the 13th century on the site of a 10-century early Christian place of worship and remodelled in the first decade of the 14th century. It was turned into a five-domed church, with the second floor and high bell tower added. For centuries, it was the Prizren cathedral. In the middle of the 18th century, it was turned into a mosque known as Cuma Cami, the frescoes hammered down and covered up with a thick layer of plaster. They saw the light of day two centuries later, when the restored pillars were demolished. It was badly damaged by fire in the March Pogrom.

The interior is rather gloomy. There is a small altar with icons and candlesticks, without an iconostasis, the dome is grey and visibly burned. Some wall frescoes have survived, however badly damaged. The most significant is the fresco of the Virgin of Ljeviš with infant Christ in her lap, picking fruit from a basket and feeding the hungry. It shines even brighter in the omnipresent chaos. Many deeds of our ancestors were dedicated to this icon; many prayers were addressed to it, many souls inspired and illuminated by it. One worshiper left a note in Arabic on the wall: “The pupil of my eye is the nest of your beauty.”

In 2006, this church and three other Serbian monasteries entered the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List under the common name Medieval Monuments in Kosovo and Metohija as endangered heritage.

„Thank you, thank you very much for visiting us,” says Father Vladan, a brave young clergyman who perseveres with his family. We turn to have one last look at the Virgin of Ljeviš, the suffering and the victorious.

THE PRIZREN SEMINARY IS A CRADLE OF SPIRITUALITY AND KNOWLEDGE

The seminary opened in 1871 as a theological and teaching school, the only one in Old Serbia. It was a pillar helping people preserve their religion, language, culture, and identity during the troubled times at the long-suffering soil of Metohija. Today’s role of the seminary is equally important.

It is located in the heart of the old bazaar, tucked away among mostly oriental-style houses, protected by iron doors. The guard opens them for us. We enter a perfectly arranged yard decorated with flowers and trees. Calm and tame. A world unto itself. A woman waves to us from the window and offers refreshments. Later, she reveals that after retiring she escaped from Belgrade to this old king’s capital and found peace. In the yard thee is a house of Sima Andrejević Igumanov, a Serbian merchant and philanthropist. He left it to the seminary „where the sons of my homeland – Old Serbia will study and prepare for spiritual knowledge“, so it says on his bust in the yard. The hall of the main building includes an exhibition of old photos of the building and Serbian patriarchs, some important documents, and relics.

During the Ottoman rule, the seminary was on the verge of closing, which was luckily prevented due to the ingenuity of the Russian consul and the influence of the Russian emperor. It suspended its work for several years during the World War II, and evacuated to Niš during the 1999 bombing. During the pogrom of March 2004 the seminary caught fire and all its contents burned down. Fortunately, the school’s archives and library of about 15,000 books were evacuated five years earlier, and thus saved. The school returned to Prizren in 2011, and the buildings were gradually renovated. The tradition of commemorating Emperor Dušan in his Holy Archangels on the first day of the school year was also revived.

Prizren is much more than an imperial city, and the seminary is more than an educational institution. Here, during the retreat of the Serbian army in 1915, King Petar I Karađorđević hid the crown, saying that the symbol of the state must not go into exile: „Let it be in Prizren, the city of our greatest glory, and now our greatest suffering“.

THE TOWN OF PRIZREN USED TO BE THE CAPITAL OF THE SERBIAN KINGDOM

To get to the fortress on the hill above the town you can rent an ATV or hike, which is harder, but much more interesting. On the way you will pass two churches – the Church of the Holy Salvation and St. Nedelya Church. Both date back from the 14th century. You cannot go inside, as both are closed.

According to official data, the Prizren fortress, or Kaljaja, was built by the Byzantines in the 11th century and later expanded by Emperor Dušan. He occasionally stayed here, as did his son Uroš. During more than four centuries of Ottoman rule, the fortress took its present form. The walls have been restored and look impressive. You can walk through the once well-fortified city along dirt and stone paths. We look at the amphitheater with a stage and the stone remains of the buildings. We guess what they were for and what secrets they hide. There is quite a number of visitors, mostly young people. The biggest crowd is on the spacious terrace. The view opens to Prizren and the entire Metohija, all the way to the Albanian Alps.

At night, if a candle was lit in every Serbian Orthodox shrine in Kosovo and Metohija, the darkness would dissipate. It would bring daylight, all of a sudden. The firmament would flicker with the flame of golden crosses from the surviving domes and wax candles from the ruins of temples crucified through the centuries. Like a fire that never dies out. So great is their strain and so great is their number. Immeasurable, innumerable.

A piece of land like no other. Every step moves for at least a decade, every glance embraces a plenitude of magnificence, every prayer echoes in silence, every ancestral stone is a rampart of eternity. Places of worship as guides and guards, protectors and bell ringers, auguries and decorations. Of the same root and legacy. Every gallery and treasury. But UNESCO was not very generous. On the World Heritage List, it entered three monasteries (Dečani, Patriarchate of Peć, and Gračanica) and one church (Church of the Holy Virgin of Ljeviša), collectively called: “Medieval Monuments in Kosovo”.

THE PATRIARCHATE OF PEĆ IS A HEARTH AND A COVENANT

We pass through Peć in the northwest of Metohija and reach the walls near the city and the guard house. After a short questioning, the barrier gate is raised, and we enter the monastery property. Another guard is at the gates. He only lets us in after obtaining permission from the mother superior of the monastery.

The monastery founds its home next to greenish impetuous water that runs through the fairy-tale Rugova Gorge. Peć Bistrica River is known for the caves (Serbian “pećina”) in which the monks lived, so the monastery and the city were named after them. In the monastery yard, there are the remains of the palace from the XIV century, a lapidarium, the high bell tower from the XX century, the monastic cemetery, and an unusual tree. A black mulberry tree, about 750 years old. Only a few decades younger than the first built Church of the Holy Apostles, also known as the Church of the Holy Saviour. It was built by Archbishop Arsenije I in the third decade of the XIII century. Centuries later, churches dedicated to St. Demetrius, Virgin Hodegetria, and St. Nicholas were built. The community of these four temples is one of the most significant monuments of Serbian spirituality, culture, and art.

The entire history of medieval fresco-painting styles is seen on the walls of the churches in Peć. Of particular importance are the compositions of Christ, the Mother of God, John the Forerunner, and the throne of St. Sava, as well as the frescoes of the archangel Gabriel and St. Mercurius, and the Nemanjić lineage in the narthex. There is not enough time to peer into every nook, to study every sarcophagus, to be inspired by the golden iconostasis, and to admire each of the frescoes individually. A magnificence that cannot be put into words. Many non-believers testify to the powerful feeling that permeated them within the Peć antiquities.

The first autocephalous archdiocese, established by Saint Sava in the Serbian lands in 1219, was called the Archdiocese of Žiča and Peć. At the time of the creation of the Serbian Empire, it was elevated to the degree of a patriarchate in 1346. The monastery in Peć has been appointed its seat. It has a turbulent and tragic history. It was abolished and restored, set on fire and looted. But it survived and, with its tradition, preserved the faith in all Serbian lands.

With the unification of the Serbian Church after the Great War, the patriarchate was restored in 1920. Ever since, Serbian patriarchs have been enthroned in the Peć Monastery. The witness to the Serbian existence and duration. To the guardian of tomorrow for “generations that are yet to come”.

VISOKI DEČANI MONASTERY ARE A SHRINE BETWEEN WAKEFULNESS AND SLEEP

The access and entrance to the monastery are completely unusual. A few kilometres from the town of Dečani, we encounter deceleration devices on the road and the KFOR checkpoint. They let us pass without a word.

There is a fork in the road, the right way leading towards the forest and the NATO-led training camp of the international forces, and the straight way leading towards the monastery. In front of the entrance, there is a guard house and a KFOR vehicle. Dečani is one of the most endangered Christian cultural monuments in Europe and the only Serbian sanctuary in Kosovo and Metohija under the protection of KFOR. The contingents of countries that secure the entry alternate, and the interior is guarded mainly by Italians. The guard with blond hair, light eyes, and rosy cheeks immediately flustered when he saw the recording equipment. The rules are strict. It is not allowed to bring larger bags, backpacks, let alone anything else. He talks on the phone, then asks for our IDs and lets us in with a slight smile. We pass through the iron gate.

In the centre, there is a building made of whitish stone. It is blinding. With the whiteness of purity and innocence. “God bless you,” Father Petar welcomes us. With an enlightened face and serene eyes. His every word and movement exude true spirituality. He is a supreme connoisseur of the unfathomable treasures of Dečani.

The place where this temple of God was to be built had been determined by Saint Sava, but he passed away before its construction. In the wilderness of the fertile Metohija plains overgrown with chestnut groves and pines. At the foot of the gigantic Prokletije Mountains, whose rugged rough peaks are forever shrouded in clouds, which threaten to thunder over anyone who intends harm to their jewel. In the valley, on the banks of the bustling Dečani Bistrica River.

The dream of the first Serbian archbishop was realized by King Stefan Dečanski. He started building his endowment in 1326/27 and it was completed by his son, Emperor Dušan in 1335. The masters from the coast and the chief architect, Vitus of Kotor, built the church wonderfully interweaving the elements of the Western Romanesque and Gothic, and the Eastern Byzantine style with influences of Serbian art. The works were personally supervised by Archbishop Danilo II.

A solemn, elegant, expensive church. Made of two-coloured blocks of marble stone polished to a shine. Alternately placed light yellow Peć onyx and reddish-purple Dečani breccia. “The appearance of the church strains the sight and the eyes of everyone that look at it, because the light of the marble shines so strongly as if there was a star shining from within”, noted an unknown travel writer in the 15th century. It is more than 36 meters long, 24 meters wide, and the dome reaches 29 meters. Hence Dečani became Visoki (Serbian for “high”). The highest.
The Father leads us to the massive wooden doors on the side of the church. A portal decorated with a rich, playful relief. Each placed around the doors and windows, as well as the wreaths and friezes of the blind arcades, is unique, with different motifs and figurines.

He takes us to the church dedicated to the Ascension of the Lord, Salvation Day. The stone threshold is hollowed out. Only this antiquity knows how many souls have trodden on it during almost seven centuries.
Art is omnipresent, interwoven with gold and vast wealth. The iconography was completed around 1350. More than 1,000 frescoes on 4,000 thousand square meters were painted by the most skilled artists of Dušan’s empire. And it was huge.

This is the largest and best-preserved gallery of Serbian medieval painting and a real treasure trove of Orthodox iconography. According to the number of characters and scenes and the skill of fresco painting, they belong to the top art of the Middle Ages, also known by a special name – Dečani painting. The frescoes of the Nemanjić family, the founder images of Stefan Dečanski and Emperor Dušan, and the portraits of Emperor Dušan with his wife and son are impressive. It is especially proud of the fresco of Jesus the Almighty, or Jesus with a sword. It is unique in the world.

Father Petar shows us the throne of Stefan Dečanski, a powerful, magnificent iconostasis from the middle of the 14th century, and next to it, a reliquary with the relics of the holy king, whose body is preserved and has miraculous powers as we are told. The last time the relics were dressed was in 1964 in the vestments that were hand-made by the then bishop, later Serbian Patriarch Pavle. Everything is original and preserved. Only the gold from the floor was taken away, says the father, pointing to the traces of the precious metal on the rectangularly carved marble floor with the finest patterns.

The monastery had a difficult life under the foreign rein, it was looted and raided. It was protected several times by Arnauts and Ottomans, but many times it was saved only by a miracle. Once when they wanted to turn it Turkish, and another time when they tried to move the remains of Stefan Dečanski, but the carriage would not move. The monastery was crushed by the boots of Bulgarians, Austro-Hungarians, and Germans, and in recent history, it was repeatedly attacked with fire and artillery weapons.

Father Petar invites us for some refreshment on the terrace of the lodging house overlooking the church. A young man is sitting at the table, with distinctly white skin, light eyes, and curly red hair. He doesn’t seem local to us, but we are reassured by Father Petar. “This is our Dutchman; he has become an Orthodox Christian”. Our curiosity did not engage him in the conversation much. We only found out that he had seen some pictures of Serbia on the Internet, travelled a bit, came to Dečani, and became Orthodox. The nature of Serbia is stunning, and the spirituality of the Dečani is even stronger. Then, a young novice appeared offering homemade juice and a hot pastry with cheese, melting in the mouth. Much of it is homemade, from the large Dečani monastery estate called “metoh” in Serbian. That’s how the whole area got its name – Metohija, since the entire land used to belong to the church.

All the time we can’t avert our gaze from Dečani. Luxurious, yet unobtrusive, majestic, yet modest. Like the warmth of the bosom of the homeland and the sanctity of the covenant of the forefathers. Timeless. As high as the earthly object can rise to heaven.

We leave the walls of the monastery, which was included in the World Heritage List in 2004, two years before the other three shrines in Kosovo and Metohija. We take our IDs from the guard and thank him, as we usually do at parting. “I’m just doing my job,” he responds quickly with a hint of justification. He must have noticed in our eyes that we expressed a lot more than a polite “Thank you”.

In the parking lot, there is a large group of people getting off a bus. “People come from different places and countries,” we recall the words of Father Petar. What should the humankind do was long ago said by wise Dostoevsky: “Beauty will save the world”. And the Dečani has spawned enough of this beauty of Fyodor’s to save the entire universe.

GRAČANICA IS THE LIGHT BEARER OF ORTHODOXY

As centuries pass, this monastery is getting more captivating and prouder. But even as a new building, it was untouchable. A sovereign master of the fragrant fields of the peony of flat Kosovo. The undisputed king of grace and artistic greatness. The beauty of King Milutin.

One of the most powerful Serbian medieval rulers was also a great endower, but the crown of his rich legacy is this monastery about twenty kilometres away from Gazimestan. It was as if he had foreseen where the fateful battle for the kingdom of heaven would take place some seventy years later, so he gave the knights an unforgettable gift in advance. To provide them with underground strength and testify that they did not shed their blood in vain.

We take the bypass around Priština. Serbian Tricolours on the pillars are a sign that we have arrived in the town of Gračanica. The monastery is a little further away, on the main square. Next to the monument to Miloš Obilić on horseback, with a raised sword in his right hand, his gaze fixed on the Kosovo field.

There is no guardhouse in front of the entrance. The Serbian population lives in the town of Gračanica. However, in some parts of the walls, there is barbed wire.

The church dedicated to the Assumption of the Holy Virgin was built from 1315 to 1321. During the 14th and 15th centuries, it was an important spiritual and artistic centre, and in the middle of the 16th century, a printing house and a library were established there. Later, due to the great Ottoman iniquities, it was devastated. It was renovated before the Second World War, and after its end it became a female monastery. Since the war conflicts in 1999, it has been the seat of the Bishop of Raška-Prizren that was relocated from Prizren.
It is one of the first-class medieval architecture achievements. It was built in Serbo-Byzantine style, of extremely harmonious proportions, made of hewn stone laid in double and triple rows of bricks of pale reddish hues.

The external narthex was built at the end of the XIV century during the reign of Prince Lazar. On the front and side parts of the narthex are oblong high openings in the glass. Quite unusual for Serbian medieval sacral buildings. To our visible amazement, the young curator explains that it was the (un)doing of the communists in the 1960s. It seemed too dark for them, so they knocked out parts of the walls and placed glass on the openings to make it brighter.
Poor tortured Gračanica. Even today, some sixty years later, it has not been restored to its original state. But even such an “enlightenment” undertaking cannot damage its beauty.

The church frescoes were painted by famous artists from Thessaloniki, and the narthex frescoes were painted in the 16th century. The most famous is the fresco of Queen Simonida, the fifth wife of Milutin, a woman of unusual beauty, but of miserable fate.

The far-reaching reputation of one of the most valuable medieval frescoes was added by the poem of the poet and patriot Milan Rakić:

“Today upon me from your royal height,
From that antique stone covered all in grime,
Oh, sad Simonida, shines down the light,
Of eyes gouged sightless in another time”!

It is also significant to mention the founder portrait of King Milutin with the model of the church, the monumental figure of Christ Pantocrator, the standing figures of holy warriors, and the genealogy of the Nemanjić Family, first painted in Gračanica.

There may be more beautiful, certainly more luxurious Serbian temples, but Gračanica is “so deeply entrenched in our country and in ourselves” as said by the poet Desanka Maksimović about the immortality of her beloved church:

“If only you were an apple, Gračanica,
that we might put you in our bosom
and warm you, cold with age as you are,
if only our long-gone forefathers’ bones
were not scattered about you near and far.”

This light bearer of Orthodoxy, a haven and spark of faith and hope for the Serbian people in Kosovo, has woven itself into the souls and thoughts of all. Ever since its birth, radiant and gentle, always defiant and proud. Gračanica. The King Milutin’s treasure. And ours.

Not all land in Bačka is flat. It has its slight ups here and there. It even created a hillock. Just so as to stir up the uniformity of the landscape. To counterbalance the flat fields. And, at the foot of it, a river runs. It flows, not only through the verses of Stevan Raičković, but “deep through the life” of this and many other poets. What do they jointly create? We’ll find out soon enough.

Why visit the Tisza river and Titelski breg

1. Because Tisza is a river of love

It travels a long distance before its water splashes Serbia, where it presents its waters to the Danube. It is its longest tributary. It divides the regions of Bačka and Banat. It is the only river in Europe that “blooms”. It has a lone counterpart in the world, the Yangtze in China. The Tisza “flower” is a mayfly that, usually in June, emerges from the river mud to freedom in order to continue its species in an unparalleled romantic dance. It gives its life for love. And it lives only for a day. And when it goes extinct somewhere, it never appears there again. “The Tisza mayfly is an indicator of how clean the river is,” our captain says as we board his boat.

We sail downstream, to the mouth of the blue giant. “Slowly, I like to take my time,” our helmsman hints at the long sail ahead of us and begins the story of the secrets, as he says, of the river that is faster and deeper than the Danube. We listen to him attentively and watch the campers who set up tents along the banks. They are huddled in the deep shade, fishing. Without making a sound. Like greenish water and quite lush surrounding nature. Calm, quiet, relaxing. Sometimes only a little bird makes a sound. We are suddenly snapped by a piercing sound. We almost fell into the water. A monstrosity is coming our way. Warning the little boats to get out of its way. We escaped in time and managed to remain on the rippling water. Our captain finds a patch of shade near the shore and docks. “It’s scorching hot. Let’s freshen up a bit,” he suggests, pulling out a cooling bag from the cabin. He is an experienced sailor of the Tisza river. Inside the bag, there is water, beer and, to our surprise, canned G-Drive iced coffee. He knew who he would be travelling with. He chooses latte, with a jocular remark: “It is too early for beer”. We have cappuccino and espresso. Cold and “strong” enough that, as we were a little dazed by the sun, they’ve shaken us up and prepared us for further boat ride.

Upstream from the bridge connecting Banat and Bačka, there is a rather different atmosphere. Lively and cheerful, noisier. There are houses packed in close together, built on barges, some of them jerry-built, some new and modern, several cafes, and a handful of boats, mostly simple ones. There is also a Tam-Tat boat that cruises on three rivers and two confluences. Families are riding around in boats and pedal boats, the young are jumping into the water and having fun, and the little ones are frolicking in the water. Fishermen are mostly waiting patiently for the fish to bite, pleasure-seekers are calmly sailing, and some scooters and speedboats are buzzing by. Everyone knows each other, they are waving, shouting, and honking the siren as a greeting. Such is the life on the Tisza river in Titel.

2. Because Titelski breg is a unique sight in Bačka

In the plain, even a small upland can be a hill. Thus, in Bačka, Titelski breg, which rises to 130 meters, is considered nothing less than a mountain. “When you climb to the top, it can buzz in your ears,” people from Bačka joke about their region that is flat as a pancake. It stretches for about 17 kilometres between the Danube and Tisza rivers, between Mošorin, Lok, Vilovo, Titel, and the Tisza river. There are two opinions on the emergence of this plateau. Some believe that it was made by wind-blowing of loess, while others think that it was detached from Fruška gora mountain. However, it is considered the most interesting loess plateau in Central Europe. It is nicknamed Witness hill (Serbian – Svedok brdo), as it holds countless secrets about climate and environmental changes that have been going on for hundreds of thousands of years. Today it is a special nature reserve. It is the habitat of about 630 plant species, significant number of which are typical steppe species. More than 140 species of birds, including 100 nesting birds, have been recorded there. The little owl and the bee-eater, one of the most colourful birds in Europe, also live here, while the white-tailed eagle and the saker falcon keep their watch over the area. There are also amphibians, reptiles, Eurasian eagle-owls, and European ground squirrels. We saw one European ground squirrel at the famous old well with large water holes, on the glade at the foot of the hillock. We haven’t checked, but they say the antique well still functions. The claim is supported by a herd of cows that graze around carefree. There is a local lore about the vast treasure buried here somewhere. Of course, it belonged to the ruler of the Huns, Attila, who, it is believed, was buried at the foot of the hill, in the arms of the Tisza and the Danube. But this is not the only area in Vojvodina where the locals claim that the grave of the Scourge of God is. According to historical sources, he did end his life in Pannonia, but whether he was buried there and where that is, or whether the Tisza took him somewhere else, will probably remain a secret forever.

3. Because Titel is a lovely town

It is nicely settled. In the heart of Vojvodina Province, along the right bank of the Tisza river, overlooking the place where the Bega river gives its water to the Tisza, on the southern slopes of the Titelski breg. There have been settlements in the area of this town ever since prehistoric times. The oldest mention of its name was in the Hungarian charters in the second half of the 11th century. Having hosted Dacians, Celts, Huns, Romans, Ugrians… it first became Serbian at the beginning of the 15th century, and finally after the Great War.

Today, Titel is a relaxed, peaceful, and hospitable town. There are several interesting buildings there: a guardhouse from the 18th century, the former warehouse for chaika boats, the Šajkaš Battalion barracks, and two churches, Roman Catholic and Serbian Orthodox, both dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and built in the same year, 1811. How interesting.

It’s a hot day with only a few persons on the street, while the others must be on the Tisza and at the town beach. A well-decorated concrete beach with reed-covered sun umbrellas, a green area with a children’s playground, and sports fields. The main street, named Glavna, starts from the beach. The first part is cobblestone, surrounded by trees, behind which are mostly private houses, some with rather interesting façades, some slightly dilapidated. There is also a small square with a fountain and a café. We walk further. It seems that the street stretches indefinitely. Finally, we reach the birth house of Mileva Marić. Big, with a large wooden gate and reliefs on the façade. It reflects the wealth of her family. Although she did not live in it for a long time, today there are not any signs indicating this was her first home. According to the media, the current owners refused to put a memorial plaque on the house. It was then decided, again according to the media, to place her bust across the street in a park, otherwise quite neglected, in order for Mileva to look at her birth place. We couldn’t find it. We may not have looked carefully enough, but if there is the bust, it should definitely be in a visible, prominent place. Only then did we understand the wondering look and shaking of the head of several locals we asked about Mileva’s bust. We unjustly accused them of not knowing about their famous fellow citizen, who, both during her life and today, does not enjoy the deserved glory and respect. In the town, only the Secondary Technical School bears her name. And Titel could have been the town of Mileva, one of the smartest ladies of the 20th century. Unfortunately, it’s not.

4. Because from Kalvarija viewpoint you can see three rivers

The top of the southeastern part of Titelski breg can be reached through narrow streets. There is a signpost. Some consider that Kalvarija (meaning Calvary – place of the skull, Golgotha) should be renamed Gradina (meaning hillfort), as a testimony to the centuries-old existence of the fort. Such a name would be nice, and it would certainly be more Serbian. One of the fortresses was the Old Town of Titel, which was demolished to the ground in the Ottoman-Habsburg wars at the end of the 17th century. However, a couple of stone boulders and a stone building remained. It is not known what the building was. There are no signs with inscriptions. All information boards are dedicated to the loess and deposits, too scientific and uninteresting for a regular visitor. But there is none about any remnants of former settlements. However, Kalvarija is certainly an escape into silence and solitude and a pleasant refuge during hot days. You can have some rest on the benches in the greenery, which, to be honest, need some renovation. Bring refreshments and snacks if you plan to stay longer. It is one of the most beautiful viewpoints on Titelski breg. One can see the town on its foot, the confluence of the Bega into the Tisza river, the flat Banat region… And in order for the view to reach the place where the Tisza kisses the Danube, one must watch more carefully and stand on the tip of the toes. But it’s worth it.

5. Because portions are large in Mala čarda restaurant

At the foot of Kalvarija, on the very riverbank, in the shade of trees, overlooking the Tisza river. A more than tempting start to the Titel gastronomic experience. We are greeted by the wide smile of a young waiter. In the manner of an experienced host, he quickly recommends a portion of grilled perch. It’s prepared with the experience and knowledge of fishermen, so that not even the grumpiest guests could complain. He also recommends a burger of unusual cubic shape, for gourmets. And it really is exceptional, both when it comes to its taste and size. It is large and stuffed. But it quickly disappeared from the plate, just like the perch. The appetite, you know, is always better with the smell of the Tisza.

Kosovska Mitrovica is for many, the most sacred piece of Serbian land. It is certainly home to the most magnificent Orthodox temples.

After the administrative crossing, we drive along the shore of Gazivoda Lake. It reminds of Zlatarsko Lake. With its emerald tones Gazivoda Lake is tucked away in lush greenery. It exudes calmness.

KOSOVSKA MITROVICA IS AN ANCIENT CITY

Statues and altars from the II and the III centuries were found in the city area. The city was mentioned for the first time in medieval writings. The name Mitrovica originates from the XIV century after the church of Saint Demetrius of Thessaloniki, which King Milutin donated to his endowment, the monastery of Banjska. After the First Balkan War, it became part of the Kingdom of Serbia.

It is settled in the north of the Kosovo Basin, at an almost mountainous altitude, on the edge of the Dinaric Mountains, bordered by the slopes of Golija, Kopaonik and Rogozna. From afar, the northern part of Kosovska Mitrovica acts as a hill stronghold. It was as if someone was chasing and cornering it, so when it reached the hilly hinterland, it dug in and did not depart. There is nowhere else to go. The streets are still quite narrow today, mostly on a slope, the residential buildings are old, and many are with dilapidated facades while the buildings are mostly neglected. Understandably, there are many more pressing concerns.

On the main square there is the monument to Tzar Lazar, seven and a half meters high. He holds a sword in one hand and points to Gazimestan with the other. It was first shown on Vidovdan 2016. Next to it, there is the bust of the Russian diplomat and consul in Kosovska Mitrovica, Grigoriy Stepanovich Shcherbina, who said while he was dying that he was “the first victim in the new Serbian history for the liberation of Old Serbia”. He succumbed to a wound from a Turkish bullet in 1903. On the pedestal of the monument, the words of academician Vladimir Ćorović are inscribed: “A drop of fraternal Russian blood has flowed into the streams of Serbian blood, which have flowed through Kosovo for centuries (in Serbian: Kap bratske ruske krvi kanula je u potoke srpske krvi, koji stolećima Kosovom teku).” Further towards Ibar, a pedestrian street stretches under the Serbian Tricolours spread between the buildings. They are placed everywhere – on pillars, terraces, shop windows… There is quite a number of catering facilities on the promenade. Crowded. There are many young people and children. They ride bikes, run, and kick and throw a ball.

At the end of the promenade there is a sculpture Kosovo Peony (in Serbian: Kosovski božur), in memory of the Milić brothers, three heroes who gave their lives to defend their homeland. Nearby, on the very coast, there is a monument to those killed in recent war conflicts. At the top there is a picture of the White Angel. Apart from the memory of the victims, truth be told, there are not many preserved cultural and historical buildings. Some remained across the river. We also reach Ibar, and then the church of Saint Sava in the southern part of Mitrovica.

A VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF SAINT SAVA CAUSES STRONG FEELINGS

There is a guardhouse outside. We have announced our visit, so the policeman allows us to enter. Father Nenad welcomes us, visibly joyful. He does not have guests often. Religious people mostly come for the holidays. “There are more and more of them. Strangers also come sometimes“, says the Father with a beaming face, because everyone who sets foot in is worth as thousands of souls. He shows us the church port.

The construction of the temple began in 1896 and was not completed until 1921. It was built in Serbian-Byzantine style and made of stone. It had a magnificent gilded iconostasis. It was declared a cultural monument in 2000. Four years later, in the March Pogrom, it was burned and robbed. The church bell was removed. To date, it has not been set again. After the unfortunate events, it has been a landfill and a burning place for a long time, Father Nenad sadly recalls while showing us the bullet-riddled church bell tower clock. He brings us in to a church restored with great efforts. Narrow, oblong windows allow rays of light to shine through. Walls are white, unpainted, and instead of iconostasis there are arranged icons. These all are the gifts of individuals and other Orthodox temples in the country and abroad. There is still a lot of work to do, but the place of worship has come to life.

We leave with a heavy heart. The Father calls the children to say goodbye. Five boys come from the parish house, which has not yet been completely renovated. They politely and somewhat shyly wish us a good day. The Father drives them to school in North Mitrovica every day. They are the only Serbian family in the southern part of the city. Simply staying for the sake of future survival is sometimes the bravest act.

THERE ARE SPECIAL PLACES FOR BREAK EVERYWHERE

We return to the northern side. We need refreshments, and a break due to the long walk in addition to the impressions from the Church of Saint Sava. But not in a crowded cafe, we want to be alone for a while. We sit on a bench near the monument Kosovo Peony (in Serbian: Kosovski božur) which is symbolic. Everyone sips Jazak water lost in their thoughts. It is our faithful companion on all trips, so we took it to this special trip as well. We drink the last drops from the bottle and we are already strong and ready to continue walking. Miracles are made by the minerals of natural spring water.

THE MONUMENT TO MINERS CAN BE SEEN FROM AFAR

We climb up the hill through narrow streets and we reach the meadow where there is a children’s playground and an unfinished facility, probably for sports. A cross rises on the highest rock of the nearby hill. It seems golden under the rays of the Sun. It illuminates the surroundings. On the other side, there are the outlines of the remains of the medieval town of Zvečan on the top of the extinct volcanic cone. Stefan Dečanski died there.

Following the path through the conifer forest, we come to a monumental stone creation, about 20 meters high. It was erected in 1973 in honour of the deceased partisans of Albanian and Serbian nationality in the Second World War. A trough-like structure is placed on two conical pillars. According to one interpretation, the pillars represent the two peoples of Kosovo, and the trough represents their unity during the liberation struggle. According to the second interpretation, it represents a mining wagon. The bones of the deceased miners rest in the tomb.

A few steps further there is a viewpoint from which the view extends over the whole Mitrovica. The church of Saint Demetrius stands out, on the glade at the foot of the platform. The place has been carefully chosen, so that it can be seen from everywhere. It is a newer building, from the beginning of the XXI century. It was consecrated on Mitrovdan in 2005.

AT “SEJDA” THEY SERVE BALLTASTIC MEAT

Without second thoughts, we go to eat at “Sejda”. It has a tradition of almost sixty years. The host welcomes us unusually cordially. Everyone from Central Serbia is a special guest. They serve only meatballs. But not the ones well-known to us in tomato sauce, but grilled ones. They are taken piece by piece and served with hot buns and a salad of your choice. Something between a kebab and a burger, both in terms of size and composition. The taste, however, is different, juicier, tastier and unique. Well, dear people of Novi Pazar, you have strong competition. If by any chance we were appointed to the culinary jury, we would share the golden medal, like brothers. The host, who despite the great crowd pays attention to us, does not allow us to pay. “You came to the host’s house, to the hospitable city“, he says proudly. We disapprove, but in vain. He is persistent. We thank him from the bottom of our hearts. We leave our Mitrovica with mixed, deep feelings. The hospitable city, but above all the city of everyday heroes.

Šumadija’s calling. Truth be told, we have not visited it for a long time. Although the haiduks have already laid low, but only until St. George’s day, we are rushing to the area known by haiduks. To take pride in their great deeds, to discover cultural and historical sights, and to enjoy the nature. To the city that geographer and scientist Jovan Cvijić, described in a fairytale manner as “a white swan on the green lake” at the first encounter.

Why visit Rudnik and Gornji Milanovac

1. Because Rudnik is a natural and cultural treasure

It is the highest mountain of Šumadija. Cloaked in dense, mostly beech, forests entwined with clear streams and green glades, it guards over the heart of Serbia through its eight peaks above 1,000 meters of altitude. It is the node between the basins of the West and Great Morava Rivers and the Kolubara River. It is named after its wealth of lead and zinc ores (“ruda” in Serbian) that are still extracted today. Owing to its location and mineral wealth, it has been inhabited since ancient times.

It has always occupied a significant place throughout history. Not only did the invaders vie for Rudnik, but also Serbian lords contested for it. Thus, the first Serbian dinar was forged on Rudnik in the Cyrillic script. It was the dinar of King Dragutin. What is more, a peculiar wind rose blows on it, and due to that and a lot of sunshine throughout the year and high ionization of air, it was officially made a fresh air spa in 1922, as our host, a good connoisseur of the Rudnik region, tells us. And, then, it immediately became a place of fashion, and the lords of the city hastened to enjoy its blessings, he adds pawkily. Rambling along forest and health paths is a real pleasure because Rudnik harbours many natural beauties and traces of its turbulent past. The natural good of Veliki Šturac, which covers eight hectares between the summit of Javor and Cvijić’s peak, is under strict protection.

Walking to the village of Gardovi you will discover the remains of a Turkish town and fortress, and walking to Misa, the remains of an Islamic place of worship from the XIV century. Visiting the monument to Arsenije Loma honours the heroes of the Second Serbian Uprising. It is also worth seeing the Forest House, also known as Vila Danica and Herman’s Vila. The stone beauty hidden among the conifers was built in the 1930s by the contractor Von Herman, an Austrian born in Belgrade, who as one of 1300 corporals survived the retreat through Albania.

Among the peaks that must not be bypassed is Ostrvica, a rare relief phenomenon with steep cliffs. Due to its inaccessible terrain, it is a challenge even for experienced hikers. However, it is worth going up to 758 meters because it contains the remains of a fortified town that is assumed to date back to ancient times. It was rebuilt by Đurađ Branković in the XIV century for the defense against the Ottomans. It is believed that his wife died in it, so it was named “Jerina’s Town” after her. There are many stories about Jerina, and the names of the villages of Trudelj and Zagrađe are related to her. Ask the locals, they will be more than happy to talk about Jerina.

Wherever your feet take you or the wheels drive you, you’ll be grateful.

2. Because Prljuša is a shaft of a prehistoric mine

It is located at the peak of Mali Šturc, almost 1,000 meters above sea level. The best-explored shaft of a prehistoric mine so far has shown that miners once used rock mallets of various sizes. On its steep cliff, copper ore was mined – malachite. Several ceramic containers have also been found, and according to the findings, the shaft dates back to the fourth and third millennia B.C.

The remains of the former mine are still visible today, and traces of mineralization on the rocks as well as various coloured stones give the site a special charm. It’s also a viewpoint. The view overlooks the forest, which is hilly, green, and ravishing. It reaches all the way to Gruža Lake. Tread and observe carefully. And, if you’re lucky, you might find a piece of mountain crystal.

3. Because at Gornji Milanovac petrol station we enjoy top quality coffee

Exploring natural and cultural treasures requires a lot of energy. That is why we stop at Gornji Milanovac petrol station, with one of the many Drive Cafe restaurants throughout Serbia, and there we get invigorated with coffee made according to the recipe of old Italian masters.

Upon that, we move on, our senses sharpened and ready for all that awaits us in Gornji Milanovac.

4. Because Gornji Milanovac is the youngest town in Serbia

Or one of the youngest. And the young can often do what the elderly can’t. Thus, a small town in southwestern Šumadija managed to connect two conflicting Serbian ruler dynasties. Although its history is much longer, it was officially founded in 1853. Then, Prince Aleksandar Karađorđević gave the order to move the town of Brusnica near the Despotovica river after which it was named. But when he returned to power, Prince Miloš Obrenović decided in 1859 to rename it in honour of his half-brother Milan. As there was already one town of Milanovac on the Danube, this one at the foot of Rudnik was added the word Gornji (meaning “upper”), because it definitely is at a higher altitude. The young town was rapidly developing, especially in crafts and trade, and it soon became a respectable environment. Unfortunately, in World War II, it was bombed and burned in 1941. It managed, like many others, to rise above the suffering, and it was rebuilt. Nowadays, it is a charming little town with interesting and diverse content.

The town square is dominated by the former District Council building, known as the Old Court. It is the oldest court building in Serbia, whose construction began in the mid-19th century. It is more famous as the place where the unsubmissive duke Živojin Mišić, then commander of the First Army, issued an order for the Rudnik Offensive in November 1914 and led the heroes to the Kolubara Battle. After World War II, it was a prison, and today it’s home to the Cultural Centre and the library. In front of the entrance, the honorary place is occupied by the bust of Živojin, and beside him, on the lawn, there are marble statues of Aleksandar Karađorđevic and Milan Obrenović.

Across the street, you can see a beautifully landscaped city park and the church of the Holy Trinity, the last endowment of Prince Miloš who started its construction, but it was his son Mihailo who completed it. The church preserves the heritage of the town, old iconostasis and parts of the notable Takovo tree, under which the beginning of the Second Serbian Uprising was announced. Nearby is the Memorial Park Brdo Mira with a variety of trees and a large number of monuments. Inhabitants of Gornji Milanovac preserve the memory of all victims.

5. Because the Brković House is a legacy and a museum

The house of the wealthy merchant Ivan Brković has hosted the legacy of the Nastasijević family and the permanent exhibition of the Museum of the Rudnik and Takovo Region. Built in the late 1930s, it is a rare preserved example of interwar architecture. The legacy of a renowned family that left a striking mark on Serbian culture resembles a refined city house dating from the early 19th century. All members of the family were educated and artistic, and their home exudes culture.

Pictures and family portraits, personal items, books, manuscripts, a typewriter, a piano, a cello, a flute, a flute with a music stand, and high-class furniture testify to the life and works of the Nastasijević family. This precious legacy, the house where the family lived until 1920, was donated to Gornji Milanovac by the writer Slavomir Nastasijević in 1983. And thus he gave the Rudnik area and its visitors an extraordinary cultural and historical experience.

Pictures and family portraits, personal items, books, manuscripts, a typewriter, a piano, a cello, a flute, a flute with a music stand, and high-class furniture testify to the life and works of the Nastasijević family. This precious legacy, the house where the family lived until 1920, was donated to Gornji Milanovac by the writer Slavomir Nastasijević in 1983. And thus he gave the Rudnik area and its visitors an extraordinary cultural and historical experience.

In the loft, there is a permanent setting, archaeological and ethnological collection, which includes the period of the Obrenović family rule and the history of the city. The collection consists of objects from the Old Palace in Belgrade and the Takovo Castle that was burned in the fire. Among the most important exhibits is the seal of Prince Lazar, found in the area. The unique metal plate depicts a helmet decorated with buffalo horns, the trademark of the mythical ruler, thus proving that Lazar not only resided here but also issued charters. Admittedly, its replica is exhibited, because the original had to be sent to Belgrade, to the National Museum. The most intriguing item is certainly a piece of the curtain from the Old Palace, in which the bodies of King Aleksandar Obrenović and Draga Mašin were wrapped after their execution during the May Revolution in 1903. The great guide vividly reveals many unknowns about Queen Draga, who was born in Gornji Milanovac, but also about Queen Natalija Obrenović’s benevolence and help to Serbia. We have revised some knowledge of history, but also acquired new knowledge that is left out of the schoolbooks.

6. Because the Norwegian House is a memorial to the “Blood Road”

Its official name is the House of Serbian-Norwegian Friendship. The building is a blend of a wooden Viking drakkar ship and a Serbian wooden cabin. Although it is known to many only as a restaurant, there is a museum setting upstairs to commemorate the prisoners of 13 Nazi camps in Norway during World War II. Around 4,000 people were dispatched, almost all of them Serbs, including about 40 inhabitants of Gornji Milanovac and its surroundings. As part of forced labour, they built a road which was later called the Blood Road, and which is still used today, the curator reveals. There were 1,660 survivors, mostly thanks to the help of the local population, which supplied them with food, medicines, and warm clothes, and some even helped them escape. Thus, after the war, the survivors of the camp and their brave saviours, the Norwegian, decided to immortalize their friendship. All the material for the house, which was opened in 1987, was brought from Norway. The personal items of the prisoners are exhibited, and the history is presented in Serbian and Norwegian language. There are screens on which one can enter the name of the prisoners and find out about their life and fate, if it is known. Evil times make friendships, so the Bloody Road brought the two nations together. The Museum of the Rudnik and Takovo Region takes care of the house, and the visit needs to be announced to it.

7. Because Kota 555 is a high place for a gourmet

On the road Gornji Milanovac-Topola we stop for a snack. We assume that the figures in the restaurant name represent the altitude. We must be right because it is also a viewpoint overlooking the nearby valleys and looking at several peaks. Our exploration of Rudnik nooks and the mountain air starved us, and we gladly accept the “meat” recommendation of the lady owner. As portions are plentiful, we order half portions. Here come the ćevapi, pork neck, and beef under the lid, all in or on the traditional cream. In addition, she brings sauerkraut, paprika in cream, and homemade buns. We dig into it, and though we have done our best, we cannot finish our half rations. We are unanimously rating it with three straight As for exquisite food. And ten out of ten for service and kindness.

The gigantic flow of the Danube is tumultuously capricious. Serbia seems to have tamed it. The sprawling waterway quenched its thirsty plains and carved up the most wonderful gorge in Europe, and as soon as it entered Serbia, it wove through forests and meadows an endless network of backwaters and canals in one of the last refuges of the living world of floodplains. In that region, it forced the population to adapt to it, and so this watercourse cultivated resourceful and fruitful hosts, and gifted its fishermen with fish in abundance, and made the cooks skilled. We are rushing towards a natural rarity in the northwest of the homeland, via Sombor.

Why visit Upper Danube

1. The Upper Danube is Europe’s Amazon

More specifically, the area of ​​the large Bačko Podunavlje Biosphere Reserve, the Serbian part of the area called the European Amazon, which includes wetlands along the banks of the Mura, Drava and Danube rivers, which UNESCO declared the first five-state biosphere reserve in the world. The special nature reserve of the Upper Danube River is located in the extreme northwest of Serbia, on the triple border with Hungary and Croatia, along the left bank of the Danube, along almost 70 kilometres of the river course. It consists of two large heaths, Monoštorski and Apatinski, which together cover almost 20,000 hectares. It is characterized by heath forests interspersed with backwaters and canals, with river islands, meanders, ponds, swamps, wet meadows, reeds, and marshes. This unique river landscape has managed to preserve incredible biological diversity. It houses about 50 species of mammals, 250 species of birds, including the white-tailed eagle and the black stork, 50 species of fish, nine species of reptiles, numerous species of butterflies, and more than 1,000 plant species. It is the habitat of the largest European deer population in Serbia.

The centre of the reserve is the Eco-centre of Karapandža, next to the weekend resort of Kenđije. The yard is beautifully landscaped with a wooden gazebo and a covered outdoor classroom where various workshops dedicated to nature conservation are held. There is also a mini trail with information boards suitable for people with reduced mobility, where they can briefly get to know the richness of the reserve. For now, there are no catering establishments, so visitors have to bring their own water and other refreshments. There are fire pits for a kettle and a grill, so you can prepare your own food in nature. It will certainly be a day to remember.

We have not visited Amazonia, the one in South America, so any comparison would be inappropriate. But this one of ours completely enchanted us. The nature is wild and pristine, and the people are benevolent and forthcoming.

2. Roundelay envelops navigators in the Baja Canal

The catamaran sets sail at the pier in front of the Karapandža Eco-Center. It drives along the Baja Canal, which is one of the cleanest canal waters in Serbia. We enjoy nature from the boat. A completely different experience. The shores are overgrown with forest, reeds and heath vegetation. The coast is decorated with water lilies, among which fish hide. There are different kinds of them. Swans, ducks, herons keep us company. We reach the widest part of the canal, affectionately called Shira. It spanned over 120 meters, but it looks quite narrow, because the reed went deep into the water. An hour expired in blink of an eye. We disembark and greet the water jewel of the Sombor municipality. We didn’t take a dip into it, unfortunately. The current weather does not allow. But we’ll be back when it warms up, for sure.

3. Walking in the primeval forests along the Danube is unparalleled experience

The best way to get to know the area is by walking. If you are truly adventurous, there is a marked trail for independent wandering, about four kilometres long, with information boards, a rest area and an observation deck. You can also choose tours with a professional guide during which you will learn more about the reserve and its features, as well as about the process of restoring the ecosystem and the cultural and historical heritage of the region. You will definitely see a bat house in a tree, and maybe hear a deer roar or come across small turtles. Whichever walking tour you choose, listen to the trees, recognize animal tracks, observe carefully, breathe deeply, and simply enjoy.

The trails are suitable for all age groups and levels of physical fitness. Footwear should be comfortable and adapted to forest conditions, in other words, without any fashion. Of course, do not forget to take a break and drink some water – much needed during long walks. Our choice was the same as before – naturally good spring water Jazak.

4. The Periškić family honey is superb

Bački Monoštor, which you pass through on the way to the Karapandža Eco-Center, has a long tradition of beekeeping. We wanted to be a little smart, and since you have to eat honeydew to generate more brain cells, we stopped by the beekeeper Periškić. A wooden bear welcomes us in front of the gate. The hosts open wide the doors of the classroom where children gain knowledge about the most important creatures on earth and their healthy and medicinal products. We learn that there are more than 20,000 species of bees, and only seven honey bees. He tells us that in these regions the conditions are extremely favourable for bee breeding due to the abundance of watercourses, humidity and lush vegetation. The work is not easy at all, but the honey is delicious, so he does not complain. The host also takes us to an old type of beehive, affectionately called Monoštorka, as well as inhalation chambers, whose beehives have been painted by children, and which, he hopes, will be operational next year. Well, we learned something about wonderful values ​​and tasted honey, which according to analyses is almost flawless, the host boasts. You need to make an appointment to visit the household, but you can certainly stop by and buy a jar or two of honey, if the hosts are at home.

By the way, Bački Monoštor is a very interesting village where various delicacies are made and many old crafts are nurtured. You have to ask around a bit and make friends with the locals, and maybe they will show you their skills and take you to homes where they keep handicrafts and unusual personal collections from being forgotten.

5. The museum of the Battle of Batina is a memorial to intrepid fighters

The memorial museum of the Battle of Batina is located on the left bank of the Danube, near the town of Bezdan, at the initial positions of the great battle in the Second World War. Built in 1981, it preserves the memory of the fighters of the People’s Liberation Army of Yugoslavia and the Red Army who gave their lives in one of the largest joint military operations for the liberation of the country. It used to form a whole with the memorial room on Batina and the “Victory” monument that dominates the landscape, on the right bank of the Danube, today in Croatia.

At the very entrance to the building of an unusual shape, a digital board in several languages ​​adapted for blind and partially sighted people has been installed. A cordial curator guides us through a battle that many did not learn about in school, possibly because of the quarrel between Tito and Stalin. It took place between November 11 and 29, 1944, and was quite bloody. About 1,300 Red Army soldiers and about 900 partisans died, while about a thousand people went missing. About 1,500 women participated, as nurses but also real warriors, and among the fighters was the famous Sombor painter Sava Stojkov, says the curator. In the waters near the nearby bridge over the Danube, when the mighty river dries up, you can see the outlines of sunken Russian tanks, the curator reveals to us an interesting fact. In the central part, under the sculpture of a bird, there is a model of the battle, and on the walls there are panels with the names of the fallen and artistic representations of the battle. The showcases display uniforms, letters from fighters, patriotic songs written during the battle, decorations, black and white photographs, and several pieces of weapons used in the war. The museum owns many more weapons, but they are currently on loan for the purposes of filming, the curator justifies. We made up for the materials missed in the students’ desks in the Museum on our bank of the Danube.

Not far away is the ship lock, at the confluence of today’s Vrbas – Bezdan canal with the Danube. Built in 1856, it is the first building in Europe where underwater concreting was applied.

6. Indulge in fish cracklings at the Pikec czarda

Everyone gallivanting along the Danube, even in Bačka, invariably have lunch in a czarda. According to the recommendation, we go to Pikec, not far from the Museum. A garden on the very bank of the Danube with wooden tables and benches, crowded. Nevertheless, vibrant staff managed to find a seat for us. For the lack of time there was no menu, a waiter expertly recommends fried perch fillets and fish stew, salted as tasty. He brings a steaming meal in a big cauldron, accompanied by a platter of local pasta. They should be poured over while the juice from the stew is hot so that they soften. Tastes real, czarda-like. While we are enjoying ourselves and barely admiring it, a waiter rushes past us carrying something unusual and tempting on a wooden plate. On the way, he shouts that they are cracklings. We are curious, we say. It was not until the pile arrived with onion rings and tartar sauce that we realized they were fish. Truly, it would be a shame if they were pigs next to this much water. Moreover, potato salad hidden under the cracklings in lieu of bread. Those who know about this delicious dish, order it as an appetizer. Maybe we got the order wrong, but we enjoyed ourselves, and by God, we had a whale of a time eating all the delicacies served. Instead of cakes, cracklings and fish. Who still cares about the rules of dining in a czarda on the Danube!

Before we wave goodbye to the summer and ask it to return quickly, let us visit more natural jewels of our homeland. This time in the very heart of Šumadija. Where the girls are pretty as roses. The landscape the great poet Dobrica Erić described as “a piece of paradise, which God deliberately or intentionally dropped from heaven.” We are driving on the highway to Niš, via Kragujevac.

Why visit Gruža Lake

1. Because the Gruža Lake is the Šumadija Sea

It was created by damming one of the longest and water-richest rivers of Šumadija, the Gruža River, so it was named after it. It covers 900 hectares and is the fifth largest artificial lake in Serbia. The river bank, about 40 kilometres long, is quite rugged and usually accessible. It is rich in fish, especially carp, pike, catfish, golden carp, bream, perch, but may find some other specimens, too. There are fishermen all over the place. They take pleasure in casting fish hooks, chatting, and preparing food. Numerous birds keep them company. There are about 90 species of them, although the data is quite different. Even fans of rowing, kayaking as well as surfing enjoy it when the wind is favourable. As the average depth of the lake is about six meters, the water is pleasant for swimming. Along the river bank immersed in meadows and groves, several lanes and pathways are arranged for walking, cycling and jogging. Or you can just sit on a bench, enjoy the view, chat with your friends, or be alone and read.

As far as we can tell, there are no arranged public river beaches in the area. Some of the owners of the river bank houses have arranged an access to the river, but only from their houses. However, we have learned from the fishermen that from recently there is a place for splash in a river. La Terrasse, the original Šumadija name… but as the landlord lived in France, we accepted and forgave. Except for the name, he intertwined a bit of French charm into his piece of paradise just on the river bank towards the village of Žunje near Knić. A small restaurant, a cafe and a swimming pool with an amazing view on the lake. The way it was made gives the impression the pool water merges with that of the lake. Although the river beach under the terrace is arranged, swimming is prohibited. There are several pontoons all around. The first neighbour has had the gravel poured and a wide beach made, so you may jump into the river but at your own risk. This is where accommodation facilities are being built to a large extent. It seems that tourism is being rapidly developing in the Šumadija Sea. And it should, because the reasons are so many.

2. Because the church in Borač is a stone beauty

The official name is the Temple of St. Archangel Gabriel. The church property is very large and impeccably arranged. Flowers, trees, benches for rest and a drinking fountain for drop-by travellers to refresh themselves and fill their bottles for a walk through the forest. We climb up the small path to reach the small stone church. It has nestled at the bottom of Borač karst, sheltered by steep cliffs from three sides and by century-old linden trees from the fourth side. The churchyard has a number of stone slab graves. It was built in the Byzantine-Serbian style with only two small narrow windows. We enter through a beautiful wooden door. The interior hides a magnificent wooden iconostasis with a wooden cross above. Only remains of the frescoes to be poorly seen date back to the XVI century. The original church was built during the reign of the King Dragutin, by the end of the XIII century. It was restored by the Emperor Dušan, and later on by many other Serbian rulers. It has been ravaged by the Turks for the last time, and it was restored thanks to the efforts of the Knyaz Miloš in 1818. It has been under the protection of the state since 1971.

Between the church property and the country houses, an old cemetery in Borač is situated. There are several hundred tombstones in various shapes and sizes, mostly leaning on different sides, some of which are covered with moss. They are mostly narrow and elongated with a cap (“kapa”) on top, which is why they are called “kapačari”. Rich, diverse, vivid and rather strange patterns and prints. According to some data, the oldest date back to the XVI century, and according to other data, they were erected in the period from the First Serbian Uprising to the First World War. It must be that they have not been researched enough. The thing they have in common: they are made of stone from the Borač quarry and are the work of the local stonemasons.

The whole scene somewhat resembles the old Rajač cemetery near Negotin. As for the unusual ornamentation and shapes, as well as the overall impression – it is overgrown with grass and neglected. The Church of St. Archangel Gabriel and the cemetery are cultural assets of great importance.

3. Because Borač karst hides the remains of a medieval town

It is a rare terrain relief phenomenon. It is part of an extinct volcano that was formed about 20 million years ago, within the Rudnik’s massif. What sculptures nature has carved out of petrified lava! Today it keeps a watchful eye over the Gruža valley. The rocks are extremely solid and durable, of unusual colour and partly shiny, so the Borač stone is used as an ornament in building. It was declared a natural monument in 2019. The peaks can only be reached on foot, by a pathway through the forest. We walk slowly, breathe-in nature, and look for forest fruits. The highest peak is at 515 meters above sea level.

On a cliff just eight meters lower, there are the remains of the medieval town of Borač. The name is believed to have been derived from the verb “to fight” (“boriti se”), because it was often a target of long and dreadful battles. Although it was mentioned for the first time in 1389 in connection with the Hungarian incursion into Serbia, it is assumed that it existed much earlier, back in the reign of the Roman Empire that built the first fortress. It was then mentioned in the Despot Stefan’s Charter in 1405, and since then it has been recorded in documents as “the famous town of Borač”, so it is not surprising that the famous Venetian cartographer Fra Mauro put it on the world map. With the fall of the Serbian Despotate, it lost its strategic importance and then fell into disrepair.

The town was completely adapted to the configuration of the terrain. It had six towers and was divided into an upper and a lower town, and also served as a shelter for the population during enemy attacks. Today, only the remains of certain facilities may be seen, such as the tower of a circular base and a rectangular building that was a church. It was declared a cultural monument of great importance in 1983.

The visit give you the right feeling. Physical activity, lush nature and rich history in a single climb-up!

4. Because the Vranić house gave home to a famous Serbian intelligence officer

That is what the famous series My Cousin from the Village says. We saw a sign for the property where the series was filmed on the way to Borač karst. We decided to see if the TV series scenes were real. After several sharp turns on the dirt road, we reached a vast clearing on a hill. Behind the stone fence, in the spirit of Borač, the Serbian tricolour flag welcomes us. It is fluttering on the mast, up high. We are welcomed by cats, dogs and a rugged puppy who whines until it has been caressed and played with a little bit. Only now are we allowed to pass. We are looking for the host, the Colonel Milomir Vranić, but on the wooden old house stands the notice, saying he is at the teacher’s house. As the door is open, we go in. One room has it all. As in the old times. The central part of the room has a large table with a checkered tablecloth and a small village museum around it. A fireplace, two beds with woven bedspreads, rugs, folk art pieces, old furniture, black and white photographs, wall cuckoo clock, a spindle and a horsetail, old banknotes, and of course a corner with icons.

There are no scenes, everything is real. A courtyard with several facilities, an old well, lined barrels and flower pots, a mare and a colt, always friendly donkeys coming to cuddle. Time has stopped here. Only a playground for the kids has been added as something new, and a new facility is being built, probably a restaurant. We hope that its appearance will be integrated into the environment, not disturbing the true village idyll.

5. Because at Vranić’s, one dines like an officer

Since we are already in the country, it would be a pity not to have a bite. It must be homemade and just prepared. We sit in the great shade of a branched, huge walnut tree. And the menu is according to the village custom – there is not much to choose from. Only what a skilled cook prepared that day. Usually two or three dishes are offered. Today the cooked sauerkraut with corn bread (“projara”) is one the menu. Maybe a bit heavy food for a hot sunny day, but the boys smile in content. Eating the sauerkraut, not saying a word. They started speaking only after having eaten a half of the meal – it speaks seven languages, just like the Serbian intelligence officer in the series. However, the lady member of the team chooses a homemade dish – cheese, cream, “kulen”, prosciutto/ham, dry-cured pork neck and bacon containing just a bit of fat. Expected and delicious flavours from Šumadija. We are kept company all this time by puppies and kittens who lovingly hang around and patiently wait for some bites. We gave them many.

The taste of homemade food is complemented by the view that opens up to the cliffs of the Borač karst massif on one side, and to Gruža and Gruža Lake on the other side. Eh, the resourceful Colonel Vranić knew all sorts of things, even where to find peace for himself.

6. Because in the tavern “Ko to tamo peva” (“Who is Singing Over There”) you may rest with your eyes open

At the beginning of our trip, near the road to Knić, we spotted a tavern named after the cult movie Who is Singing Over There. The bus of Krstić and son was parked in the yard. We were going to stop for a coffee there on our way back. And we did so. Yet, we were there, but not the bus anymore. In disbelief, we hang around the wheel tracks in the ground. A chatty and cordial host comes to us and reveals that the small bus has gone for a drive of a small group of visitors around the area. “Yes, it is in roadworthy condition,” he replies to our astonished faces, and adds wittily: “But it only drives those with a marriage certificate.” Of course, everything here is in the spirit of the famous adventure with the company Krstić. He frankly admits that the bus is not a specimen from the movie, but it is almost from that time, from 1953. The “missing” bus then arrives. The cheerful people come out. We are peeking inside. Everything original, intact, unrepaired. But it is still on the road. It is indestructible. Just like the great Bata Stojković in the movie.

The characters from the cult movie are everywhere in the spacious flower garden with wooden tables and benches. The atmosphere is cosy and homely. The interior of the tavern is eclectic. A little bit of everything – folk art, old furniture, instruments and paintings, then foreign posters and records, and finally the jukebox. A lot to see and read. An unusual cosy place for full relaxation and refreshment.

After the Gruža adventure intertwined with the Serbian cinematography, we sit in our vehicle, certainly more comfortable than Krstić’s. Inspired by various impressions, we sang in unison: Zaaa Beograd (To Belgrade)! Vozi, Miško (Drive, Miško)

“One can hardly find a daybreak as beautiful as in Mokra Gora,” claims a landscape lover. Undoubtedly so, as the area comprising the Mount of Šargan and the village of Mokra Gora was declared a Nature Park in 2004. This beautiful place, which seems to be embraced by the Tara and Zlatibor mountains, is crisscrossed by the Beli and Crni Rzav rivers, their rapids and waterfalls. It is also blessed with healing waters, a diverse relief, which is overgrown with medicinal herbs and dense forest. The words of the local poet, Mihailo Ćupović, provoke curiosity and encourage us to explore these divine landscapes. One thing is clear even without any verification: Western Serbia is a realm of abundant scenic beauty and it never disappoints the visitors.

Why visit Mokra gora and Višegrad

Visit the village of Mokra Gora and the city of Višegrad. Reasons are aplenty. Here are the most significant ones:

1. Mećavnik is the art of living

This entire area was conceived by the celebrated film director Emir Kusturica during the filming of his “Life is a Miracle” movie. “As a fortress that defends itself from all the poisons of society. As confirmation that home can be found again”. He turned a dream into reality, creating the village of Drvengrad on the Mećavnik hill, between the Tara and Zlatibor mountains. This village is studded with wooden houses made of pine logs, from which Dinaric type log cabins were built. Those original houses were dismantled and fetched from the surrounding area and the Republika Srpska, and now they have been outfitted for a comfortable stay. This village has all the features and amenities of an urban settlement – the main square, catering facilities, a hotel, and a log church dedicated to Saint Sava. There is also a gallery, a bookstore, a cinema, and a folk crafts shop. There is even a prison. A symbolical one. Kusturica-style! From behind the bars of this prison, we spot the gaze of two men, whom you will definitely recognize. We didn’t find out if there were some other villains keeping them company, because we didn’t set foot in the dungeon. This village pays a due tribute to the personalities, whom its host considers great men and friends. The main street is named after Ivo Andrić, Serbia’s acclaimed Nobel Prize-winning writer. Visitors can also walk the alleys named after Nikola Tesla, Diego Maradona, Novak Djokovic, and great film and literary creators. The names of famous Serbs and foreigners, names and characters of famous written and film productions are highlighted everywhere.

Living here is in harmony with nature. Like a small farm, everything necessary for life is grown and produced. Fruits from the surrounding fields and orchards, and produce from greenhouses and stables are brought to the table, called the Serbian table in the household, similar to the abundance of the Swedish table, otherwise known as the smorgasbord, except that people sit at this Serbian table and eat organically. Culture defends itself against modern social scourges. It hosts the famous Kustendorf Film Festival, the Bolshoi Music Festival, the Autumn Theater Festival, the May Writers’ Festival, and various cultural events. National architecture and the natural environment have embraced certain achievements of the modern world, only for the comfort and needs of visitors. The visitors ready to indulge themselves also have a heliport at their disposal, just in case they require a quick arrival and an even faster departure. In the spirit of a healthy life, we offer a gym, a basketball pitch, tennis courts, and a swimming pool.

In winter, when the snow covers the mountain, just eight kilometers away from the Drvengrad, a narrow paved road uphill leads to the “Iver” ski resort on the eponymous top of the beautiful Tara Mountain. The church of St. John the Baptist is nearby as well. This most recently built structure, surrounded by a flower garden, amidst a forest, is on the left bank of the Kamešina River. There is also a healing water spring Bele Vode. Locals claim that it is unique in Serbia and very rare in the world. Nature and health abound in “the city that looks as if it has always been lived in, but never was”. That is how its creator describes this place, Emir Kusturica, who made his home right here.

2. The “Šarganska Osmica” railway loop is the route of the last narrow-gauge train in Europe, which was called “Ćira”

The famous “Ćira” provided a railway service from Belgrade to Dubrovnik via Sarajevo over thirty bridges and through countless tunnels and mountain gorges. It was between 1925 and 1974, when “Ćira” was driven into retirement. At the suggestion of a group of enthusiasts, the then state-owned Railway Administration in Belgrade revived one section of the unique railway in 2003, for tourist purposes. Today, a romantically entitled Nostalgia steam train again whistles its way through the slopes of the Šargan Mountain along the 760 millimeters-wide only narrow-gauge railway in Europe. The form of the loop gave the name to the entire enterprise: the “Šarganska Osmica” or the figure-eight-shaped railway loop of the Šargan Mountain. The train treads along more than 15 kilometers from the station in the Mokra Gora village to the Šargan Vitasi station and back, passing through 22 tunnels and over five bridges and overcoming altitude changes of 300 meters.

A diverse and colorful world. A spare ticket is always in demand, but there is no under the counter trade going on here. First come is first served is the principle here. The fastest ones eagerly board the carriages, each with a different arrangement of wooden benches and seats. Antique, but as good as new. Clean and tidy. Nostalgia has beeped and the romance begins. The public address system with a pleasant voice speaks to passengers in Serbian and English, revealing the most important information, and then the music starts, homey, recognizable. Sounds of trumpets, accordions and flutes. During the approximately 150-minute drive, the train rests at several stops. Every single one has its own unique features.

From the “Krst” lookout point, you might be able to see the famous figure eight-shaped railway track loop. Another stop features the so-called “Crazy Stone” where the first marriage proposals take place. No ticket was ever sold at the Jatare station, however it has a waterfall for refreshment, and the “Golubići” station was constructed just for the filming of the “Life is a Miracle” movie. You can see all sorts of unusual things here, in the style of Professor Emir. The landscapes along the way are surreal; the nature is breath-taking and wild. Old railway cars and locomotives are placed along the railway line as an open-air museum-historical space. Exciting, romantic and certainly nostalgic. A somewhat older passengers evoke their carefree childhood, recalling the famous song about the panting and the hot, chirping locomotive called ‘Iva’. They fulfilled their childhood dream of taking a ride on one of these. It seems that there are more foreigners than locals. News about good things travel far. The Japanese are especially conspicuous and nice, a group of young people, visibly excited and curious, frantically making selfies and snapshots, walking around in a hurry so as not to miss something in all that scurry hurry. Small wonder.  They arrived from a country boasting fast “bullet” trains, for them this is pure exoticism. Probably also for many people from the West. So, they, overwhelmed by the scenery, smile in the original environment of “Ćira”, which trundles along the slopes and curves. Although we are used to all kinds of circumstances, we share impressions. We are still deeply proud of our iron winding wonder.

The “Šargan Eight” is a great example of how antiquity can be torn from oblivion and transformed into history that lives and is admired. Once an architectural feat, today it is a masterpiece that provides an unforgettable and unique experience.

3.The tourist train offers a bun stuffed with gravy

We resisted the well-known Serbian custom of “grabbing a bite” on the train, with the sweetest snacks, and waited for disembarkation at the last stop, Mokra Gora. Straight from Nostalgia, we ran into another Osmica, now a restaurant. In the shade of the garden, located almost on the platform itself. Rumour has it that the best bun filled with roast mutton gravy is made right here. It is the pride of the entire area. Veal stew and pork medallions on cottage cheese are also arriving. Everything is perfect and we wholeheartedly recommend it, especially the bun with gravy! Juicy, full, strong flavours. It heals and recovers you at any time of the day. Maybe you should rest a little, but there is no time. The “beautiful old town of Višegrad” awaits. Armed with healthy calories we gained in the village of Mokra Gora, we are heading to the border, which is only thirty kilometres away.

4. History merges with nature in Višegrad

Geographically, it is at the confluence of the Rzav and the Drina rivers. The capricious and overwhelming Zelenika divided peoples and kingdoms. Everyone wanted to conquer it since time immemorial. Višegrad miraculously managed to spread across both its banks. A rare privilege. The oldest traces of life in this area come from the time of the Illyrians, around 1500 BC. It was first mentioned in historical sources at the turn of the 15th century when it belonged to the Serbian noble family of Pavlović, so it is assumed that the old town, standing above the present one, got its name Pavlovac or Pavlovine from this family. Due to its strategic position, it was often attacked by many nations, most prominent among them the Turks and the Austro-Hungarians.

Today, it is a lively, cheerful and, above all, hospitable town, which strongly exudes the spirit of the old times. She is inextricably linked to Ivo Andrić, our only Nobel laureate, so far! Although he was born near the town of Travnik, he grew up in Višegrad, where he attended the elementary school. Memories of the great man of the pen are everywhere. A monument to Ivo was erected just before entering the most famous bridge in the world. Modest, but adorned with floral arrangements. The memorial classroom of Ivo Andrić, where you can find out what kind of student he was, and the house where he spent his boyhood days, on the left bank of the Drina, which can only be seen from the outside, are on display. Walking through Višegrad’s alleys, you will get to know the Tsar’s and Gazanfer-bey mosques, the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and the monuments to Mehmed Pasha Sokolović and the fighters from the last war. The surroundings are equally rich, both nature-wise and historically. Nearby are Višegradska Spa, Dobrun Monastery, in the Rzava Gorge from the first half of the 14th century, and the Stari Brod Memorial Complex on the Drina. A poignant display in memory of more than 6,000 Serbs executed in 1942.

Wander through the stone alleys and listen to bazaar stories, treat yourself to kebabs and other sweets, take a ride on the Ćirko train carriage, sail the Drina by boat, climb the surrounding hills and explore. Surrender to the Višegrad spirit. And be sure to leave everything for the next time, because Višegrad must be revisited.

5.Bridge on the Drina was crowned with the Nobel Prize

Day slowly breaks over the Drina. The famous bridge is also awakens, for who knows how many times, being washed with cold water and reflected in the sparkling clarity of playful shades of green. How many times has Andrić witnessed this love dance of the sun, Zelenika and architectural achievement at dawn? Where did he sit, how many steps did he take with the white stone over its nine mighty pillars, did he ever swim the Drina and pass under one of the 11 arched openings? Questions swarm inexorably while we sip our morning coffee on the shore and swallow home-made snacks, unsurpassed. A sight that leaves no one indifferent. And it was Andrić, who took it to eternity. He received the Nobel Prize in 1961 for the novel “Bridge on the Drina”, but also for his overall literary work. The bridge or ćuprija, as the original title reads, is the main character of the epic story. It speaks about almost four centuries of history of this area and landmark developments that took place in it. And if it weren’t for the Drina, there would not have been any prize. This is why Ivo Andrić brought a record with the composition “March on the Drina” to the awarding ceremony of the world’s most-coveted prize. That is how the “ćuprija” and Drina were not only read, but also played in Sweden, and even further afield.

The bridge is officially called the Mehmed Pasha Sokolović Bridge. Born a Serb, Bajica was taken to the Ottoman Empire as a blood tribute in his youth. He has come a long way. To the position of grand vizier, closest the Sultan. They say that he never forgot his homeland. So around 1570, he commissioned the best architect of that time, the court architect and supreme builder of Constantinople, Mimar Sinan, to build a bridge over the Drina River. Therefore, a few years later, Višegrad got a magnificent structure, which in 2007 was inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List.

There is a white marble gate with an inscription in Arabic script in the middle of the bridge. We heard that the verses are about the builder and the year of construction. Whatever they say, they cannot surpass Ivo’s thoughts: “Life is an incomprehensible miracle, because it constantly crumbles and sheds, and yet it lasts and stands firm like the bridge on the Drina.”

6. Andrić-grad is an ode to history and Serbian great personalities

This town was designed by Emir Kusturica, who was inspired by the works of Ivo Andrić. On the peninsula between the Drina and Rzav, near the bridge. It was opened to visitors in July 2012, and the official ceremony was held two years later, on Saint Vitus Day, or Vidovdan. Also known as Kamengrad, it is a tourist, cultural and administrative centre of mixed architectural styles – Byzantine, Ottoman, Renaissance and Classicism. The Sokolović Brothers, Mehmed Pasha and Makarije welcome you at the entrance. In addition to the Nobel laureate, the squares and monuments also commemorate two giant personalities of Serbian history, Nikola Tesla and Petar II Petrović Njegoš, and a memorial to the writer Meša Selimović was recently discovered. Inside the walls are restaurants, galleries, bookstores, souvenir shops, shops, a church dedicated to Saint Lazarus and the Kosovo martyrs, and of course the “Dolly Bell” cinema, which is open to public again. It also houses the Andrić Institute, the City Administration and several other institutions. Since its opening, it has been constantly expanded, and the contents are supplemented.

An unusual place suitable for a family or romantic gathering, an evening out or just a tourist tour. A meticulous observer will also experience it as a history and culture lesson. As it is, new knowledge arouses imagination and new thoughts. The creator of the city dedicated to Ivo Andric knew this unequivocally when he designed it to “represent all the unfinished dreams of Andrić in one place.”

7. The Zlatibor refuelling station offers refreshments for both passengers and cars

An integral part of the journey home is refreshment that we can readily use as well as our car. The Drive Cafe at the Gazprom refuelling station in Zlatibor offers a “wind-down in 1000 flavours” and a hundred blends of coffee that will invigorate you for the journey back to wherever you came from. As you enjoy a delicious espresso, latte or cappuccino, an automatic car wash caters to your vehicle.

Please, always bear in mind: it is important to take regular breaks and refresh on the way back, especially during the travel season, as by taking care of ourselves and our cars, we are taking care of others.