…the famous Serbian poet wrote. With curiosity in our hearts, we set off to meet the town surrounded by five mountains. By taking Miloš the Great Highway, we arrive in Valjevo in no time. We drive further towards Bajina Bašta and turn left into the hills, towards the Lelić village and the Ćelije Monastery. The winding road takes us through the forest. A tunnel of greenery. Nature unsparingly gives us hints of the beauty that awaits us ahead. Being of inquisitive nature, the corners of our mouths begin to turn up in a smile.

Why should you visit Gradac river and Ćelije monastery?

1. Because the Gradac river is the pearl of Serbia

A river we can take pride in. There’s hardly any watercourse in Europe that can compare to the emerald-coloured waters of one of a kind Tara River, but Gradac River in Serbia is certainly one of the top contenders. It is the cleanest river in the country and has the clearest water in the Old Continent. Nothing confirms these words better than a lady otter that is wallowing in its waters. The water temperature of 13 degrees Celsius must be very pleasing to her.

Just as soon as it breaks the surface at the foot of Povlen Mountain, the river timidly vanishes to run underground for several kilometres before it resurfaces at the main spring Zelenac. Not far from there, Gradac begins to sculpt a gorge-like canyon of unusual beauty. Its course runs like this almost all the way to Valjevo where, tired of plunging down the slopes and battling the river cliffs, it gently joins the Kolubara River. Densely wooded shores hide some 70 caves. The most famous of them is Degurićka Cave, which dates back to the Ice Age, with long corridors and an abundance of speleothems. It is believed that people have lived here since ancient times. The traces date all the way back to the Paleolith. Numerous excavations and sites testify to that. Along the canyon, steep cliffs in the Brangović village, are home to the remnants of a medieval fortress from as early as the fourth century, based on the findings. Jerina’s town. It was named by the people after a fairy, a cursed Jerina, who was condemned to roam it forever. It also goes under the name Bežane. Its impenetrable walls used to be a hiding place for the people facing merciless pursuers. The “haunted” remains of the fortress can only be reached by taking a strenuous uphill climb on foot.

Along its entire course, Gradac selflessly gives life to lush green shores that became home to diverse flora and fauna. A settlement or two can also be found. The Gradac River Canyon is a landscape of exceptional features. Super awesome, as the young people would say today.

2. Because the ethno-restaurant can be reached jump by jump

That’s exactly what it’s called. On the right bank of Gradac, not far off from the Ćelije Monastery. We are convinced the name of the restaurant comes from the way of crossing the small bridge, which is neither wide enough nor still enough, instead, it keeps swaying, but has to be crossed to reach the ethnoecological haven. It resembles a small open-air museum, with its tide mill, cabins and plank houses, ancient tools and devices, all sorts of things from a time long ago. It’s got its own pond too. Besides the fresh trout, you can have beef and goat meat in the sač and goulash, or goat cheese for an appetizer, prosciutto and kajmak. Naturally, everything is homemade and at affordable, rural prices.

Seated at the table on the shore of Gradac, you might be delighted, if you’re lucky, by the sight of unusual guests. A company of goats and billies shows up at the bridge. It is led by the billy called the Paw, who dauntlessly albeit gracefully jumps over the logs and boldly runs up to the table to steal a few morsels. The villagers’ attempt to chase him away and drive him back to the flock is in vain. He is headstrong and keeps up his antics. A lovable horned creature, and cuddly as well.

Mobile phones are laid to rest here as there is no signal. Pastoral sights and the murmur of Gradac are restful for both eyes and soul.

3. Because the Ćelije monastery kept rising from the ashes

And each time, the site became holier. It is nestled in a picturesque landscape among the slopes of the Valjevo mountains, far away from the hustle and bustle of the world, in pristine nature. It was probably named after the monastery church that was originally the size of a monastic cell (ćelija), or a cell in a cave in the surrounding rocks. The church is dedicated to the Holy Archangel Michael. Historical data about its origin are scarce. According to one account, the monastery is the patronage of King Dragutin (1276-1282), and according to another, it was built at the end of the XIV or the turn of the XV century during the reign of despot Stefan Lazarević. But the data on the patriotic past of the monastery is well known. During the Ottoman occupation, it was often demolished and burned, and its priests took part in the preparation of several uprisings and revolts. The grave of Duke Ilija Birčanin, who was buried in the monastery’s port, testifies to that past. During Karađorđe’s rule, it was used as a military hospital. Much later, in liberated Serbia, under the rule of Miloš Obrenović, the monastery was the home to one of the first schools in the Valjevo region, which was attended by the bishop, Nikolaj Velimirović. The church has never been frescoed, but it has a nine-sided bell tower, one of a kind in Serbia, the Mother Superior proudly tells us. The women’s monastery was added in 1946.

We arrive during a Sunday morning service. It is packed with people. Many approach the graceful Mother Superior, to talk to her and seek her counsel. She carefully listens to all, utters a noble word or two and invites them to refresh themselves in the dining room.

At the entrance to the monastery estate, a new three-altar temple was erected, the temple of St. Justin of Ćelije, one of the greatest theologians of the XX century, once an archimandrite of the Ćelije monastery. The vintage exterior is in the style of the Moravian-Raška school of architecture and has a freshly frescoed interior.

Only a few kilometres away is the Lelić Monastery, which holds the relics of St. Nikolaj Velimirović, with Jovanja and Pustinja Monasteries in the vicinity.

4. Because Valjevo is a city of heroes and poets

Many great men and women were born in the Valjevo area. Who should we start with not to offend anyone? Perhaps, we should start with the fearless warrior and one of Serbia’s greatest military commanders, Duke Živojin Mišić. His monument adorns the main town square. It is followed by the most beloved Serbian poetess, Desanka Maksimović, whose portrait itself is a monument to poetry, situated on another town square. There is the writer Milovan Glišić and the members of the Nenadović family – Aleksa, prota Matija, Jakov, and Ljubomir. We owe them much.

Here is where Kolubara River starts murmuring. Its riverbed is currently dry, but sometimes it can also reach the flood stage. The banks are lively and the offer is diverse. Down from the Kolubara bridge, there is a memorial to the execution grounds. This is where, on 4 February 1804, Serbian leaders Aleksa Nenadović and Ilija Birčanin were killed with yatagans by Dahijas. An unusual, reddish monument commemorates the notorious Slaughter of the Knezes. An antique, splendid edifice of the National Museum sits behind it. Not far away is the oldest preserved building, Muselim’s konak, built at the end of the XVIII century. It was built for the needs of Muselim – the then Turkish chief of the Valjevska nahiyah. The decapitated heads of the Valjevo dukes were put on display on its roof. As in the case of the Skull Tower in Niš, they failed to serve their purpose which was to intimidate the people, instead, they fueled the nation’s anger and hastened the uprising. The building was also used as a school and later converted into a satellite department of the Valjevo National Museum.

The city with a long history of wars, rich cultural heritage, green areas, parks, and sports. A very lively town, hospitable and forthcoming. It requires some TLC, the broken windows and rugged facades need renovation, but it begs for cleaning above all. Then, it would be restored to its proper glory.

5. Because Tešnjar is a Skadarlija-like area of Valjevo

Or, more specifically, it could be. It seems longer than the Skadarlija of the capital, but derelict. Unfortunately so. It was once a tradesmen and craftsmen district, with oriental features. It was packed with workshops, stores and taverns. It was busy day and night. The daytime was craftsmen’s time – time for pastry, cakes and coffee. At sunset, it was time for strolling and romancing, and the night was reserved for bohemians. But the bustling downtown faded away. Today, it is run-down and crumbling. Most of the houses were built in the XIX century. That’s how they look today too, with only a few having been restored, giving us hope that Tešnjar will not perish after all. There are barely any craftsmen left. Only a few workshops, a couple of old-style taverns and some chairs put out in the street for Sunday’s chit-chat. We wished that the atmosphere of the old bustling district was still there. A sorrowful sight both for the eye and the soul. The old cobblestone has survived – to our relief.

6. Because, on the way there, you can also pay your bills at the petrol station

Our next stop is petrol station Valjevo 2. While refuelling, we find out that it is now possible to pay your monthly utility bills at all NIS Petrol and Gazprom stations quickly and easily, and even on Sundays. Awesome! We pay the bill at the cash register and rush back to the car eager to visit the place where Desanka grew up.

7. Because Desanka spent her childhood in Brankovina

The beloved Serbs are called by their first names only. Everyone knows, there is only one Desanka. There is no direction sign to help us get to Brankovina, a typical Serbian mess-up. Travelling in the direction of Šabac, a sign will bashfully appear in the midst of the junction and, oddly so, on the left side of the road.

Soon after her birth, Desanka’s family moved from the village of Rabrovice to Brankovina, about ten kilometres from Valjevo. And there, this little girl fell in love with nature. Incurably so. She fell in love with the groves, hills, valleys, the river, dandelions, bugs and birds. She talked and spent time with them, her soul conceived her immortal verses. “I was fortunate enough to spend my childhood at the place that allowed me to learn about life in the best and most beautiful ways, devoid of everything false and extraordinary, just as it was for others. At the nature’s well,” Desanka said. Her homeland is her resting place. Today, Brankovina is an open-air cultural and historical complex. You can see the Church of the Holy Archangels, the endowment of the Prota Matija Nenadović, the old and the new school – both Prota’s and Desanka’s schools, the school’s well and the clerk’s office, five sobrašicas (small church houses from the nineteenth century), wooden houses for family gatherings and dining, a replica of the house and the courtyard house of the famous Nenadović family, as well as their graves. Here lies Aleksa, whose decapitated head was stolen by the courageous Valjevo townspeople and buried properly in his homeland.

8. Because the meals are healthier when eaten under the plate trees

And more pleasant too. Especially during hot and windless days. A vast garden under a branching canopy of giant plate trees features wooden tables and benches. The restaurant Platani is next door to the Valjevo brewery. In a typical Serbian style, we order mixed grilled meat, various salads and lepinjice, which could have been a bit fresher. The meat is a bit saltier; it is good, but nothing spectacular. Good enough to quench the hunger. The quick and pleasant service is worthy of a recommendation. We are sure, however, that better meals are served in Valjevo. We’ll look into it the next time.

As the summer draws close to an end, we seize the opportunity offered by the sunny weather to spend a day in nature. We’re heading to the place where the fertile and domesticated Mačvan flatlands in Srem is sculpted by two beautiful rivers, Sava and Drina. The place where the isolated natural landscape gave life to diverse forms of vegetation, and which the man, miraculously, decided to leave intact and spare for the beings who do pose no harm to it. Animals. Being near the Drina River already, we may just as well cross the country border and visit the largest city of Semberija and the famous Ethno village. Starting from Belgrade, the road goes toward Sremska Mitrovica and from there on to Bogatić. The sign for Camping Zasavica should be followed.

Why should you visit Zasavica and the Ethno village Stanišići?

1. Because Zasavica is a farm life safari park

The unperturbed Sava and the capricious Drina have been changing their courses from the dawn of time, forming meander bends and re-creating the surrounding landscape. Nobody knows when the landscape that is now sprawling before our eyes has been formed. However, Celtic maps show this region as the place where the dragons used to live once. Their strength had preserved this nature until the dragon-spirited people came by to replace them. So goes the legend. Or it could be the truth.

The special nature reserve Zasavica spans an area of 1,825 hectares, of which 675 hectares are classified into the strict nature reserve category of protection. It is named after the 33km-long Zasavica River, which is fed by the underground flow of the Drina River. It is one of the last wetland areas of Serbia preserved in its original state. As a strict nature reserve, it was put under protection in 1997.

It’s the perfect place for a full-day trip, especially for a family visit. A great opportunity for children to run carefree on a carpet of grass, to play in the open playground and get familiar with animals, maybe even make some friends. Parents can rest and enjoy homemade savoury meals in a restaurant with a large outdoor dining area. Boating, boat rentals and fishing are also available, with a daily boating permit. Don’t miss the chance to climb on top of the lookout tower offering the view of a large part of this untouched landscape with a summit of the Cer Mountain rising up in the distance. It also offers an overnight stay. Recently, two mobile homes have been set up for the so-called glamping, glamorous camping in a glamorous natural environment.

Certainly, the highlight is the safari ride on an electric bus. The wealth of flora and fauna is invaluable, the charming driver begins telling a story. 150 new species of flora and fauna have been identified, and on top of that, a 540 million-year-old river shrimp was discovered last year! The nature reserve is the habitat for 216 species of birds, dominated by a white-tailed eagle, 20 species of fish, among which is a European mudminnow, known to the people as “umbra” and protected as a rare species, 275 species of mushrooms and five species of truffles, 70 species of daily butterflies, and six species of snakes, but don’t worry, none of them is poisonous. The vegetation is not far behind. There are 680 species. The sweet flag, which is used in folk medicine, stands out among them. What diversity and wealth!

Soon we reach the centerfield for the safari – the water hole filled with water from an artesian well that has been tested for quality. The party is already in full swing. There’s a swarm of domestic animals: Bosnian mountain horses, Podolian cattle, cows, and piglets that are quite indifferent to the uninvited guests. A few of the animals glance at us with curiosity, but most of them hardly notice us at all. They have grown accustomed to a life of coexistence with other animals and humans as well. I guess everyone’s welcome here, as long as they follow the local rules. “There are no donkeys”, someone noticed. The lazy fellows must be sleeping late and haven’t yet arrived for the morning watering. The amiable driver immediately starts the bus and takes us to them. As on command, they approach us fearlessly and endearingly, as if they are expecting to get a few chunks of food. The foals are catching up behind them. They are friendly too. They’re sniffing the kids. Sweet, cuddly creatures. “There you go, now you know why men and women often call us jackasses”, the witty driver’s remark makes us burst into laughter. He somehow must inadvertently have missed mentioning the mule’s stubbornness.

The safari can also be done on foot. You should not rely too much on your sophisticated sense of smell but pay close attention to patches of dung strewn along the way, as they are plentiful. It’s all part of nature and we wouldn’t have it any other way. You’ll enjoy the fairy-tale pristine nature from the times of our ancestors. One that should be preserved for the generations to come.

2. Because a cheese like no other in the world is made right here in Zasavica

It has the title of the most expensive cheese – 50 grams go for 50 euros. A pule. It is, as may be expected, made of donkey milk. It has qualities that make it similar to a woman’s breast milk. It is rich in nutrients and vitamins, extremely low in fat, causes no allergies, and should not be drunk overheated. According to the records, it’s been used as a medicine for ages. A lot of effort went into finding out how to make the milk start curdling. Without any additives. Pure organic production in the same fashion as prepared by our ancestors, originating from animals grazing on the pasture that hasn’t been used for agriculture for the past 300 years. The recipe, though held in utmost secrecy, is readily available but not the quantities of milk necessary. 25 litres of milk are needed to make a kilogram of this “dairy gold”. A donkey can only be milked for six months, after the initial three months of waiting for the baby to feed. Only if the baby is well advanced and healthy, some of the milk is taken during the second three-month period. From this perspective, maybe the world’s most exclusive cheese from Zasavica isn’t so expensive after all.

Only a few days after announcing the news that the cheese has been made, a personal envoy of the British Queen Elizabeth II arrives in Zasavica, reveals our forthcoming host, who is also the most deserving for the creation of the miraculous cheese. We don’t know if Her Majesty liked the cheese, but she certainly tasted it. Unfortunately, we have not. However, we are treated to donkey sausages by the host. They’re delicious. If the cheese is out of your range, you can certainly afford meat products made from Mangalica, horse and donkey meat or folk herbal preparations.

It is not easy to bid farewell to the world of Zasavica, but we are planning to cross the Drina river before the day is over and reach the fraternal region of Semberija.

3. Because the Ethno village Stanišići is a weekend oasis

The nearest border crossing is Badanovci, over the Pavlović bridge. With only an ID card needed to cross the border, we arrive at Ethno village of Stanisici in no time at all. And over there, we are greeted by an abundance of everything, in line with the Serbian expression “from the needle to the locomotive”, and literally so. As we arrive, we are greeted by Podlugovi station, and immediately the well-known verses of Čola’s song are brought to our minds. This is the starting point for the tourist train. In the pond nearby, there is Noah’s Ark, the boat with an interesting history that was not destined to ever set sail. We take the tour on foot. There are a few more ponds with swans, parading with a couple of black swans and their young ones. There are little bridges, a mini zoo, a church and chapel, halls for various celebrations, including a small amphitheater for events. Sports lovers can play tennis, soccer and test their skills at the shooting range. The wonderful old cabins have been moved from the villages of the municipality of Vareš and the mountains of Zvijezda and Romania, together with the furniture and folk costumes and stone cottages. Some parts look like an open-air museum – water mills, a forge, a dairy farm, and a tide mill, which is still used to grind flour for the restaurant on the site. You can find accommodation in Ethno cottages adapted to meet the modern-day needs and five-star hotels with wellness and spa services.

There is also an audio guide for those who want to know more about the place’s history and ambience. Nothing was spared to please the guests, from the spacious parking to a variety of amenities. Something to suit every taste and pocket. Maybe a little too crowded, sometimes an excessive clash between the old and the new. But all very neat and spotless. The hosts are cordial, welcoming and cheerful, as is the tradition here.

4. Because Stanišići village offers a superb veal in the sač

Of several restaurants, we choose Konoba, out of which the Ethno village Stanišići has evolved. The crowds and the people hurrying towards empty tables testify to the excellent food. And it is, and more than excellent. We order a plate of appetizers – fried dough, kajmak – still warm and extraordinary, with cheese, and homemade prosciutto. It would have been enough, but we could not pass on grilled meat and the veal in the sač. Pljeskavica and kebabs, as perfect as expected, since the famous barbecuers can’t fail. And the veal, oh! Exquisitely prepared, it just melts in your mouth. If there is something that makes it worthwhile to travel all the way to Stanišići village, it is undoubtedly the food.

5. Because Bijeljina is home to the Semberija Museum

It is situated on the city’s main square, in the town’s oldest building that needs refurbishment of its exterior. It stores more than 10,000 items which are divided into three permanent exhibitions. The archaeological collection comprises exhibits from the Neolithic period to the late Middle Ages, a collection of monumental medieval tombstones with Cyrillic inscriptions in Old Church Slavonic and Roman stone monuments. The historic room depicts the city’s past from the time it was first mentioned in writing in 1446. The Ethno-room, probably the most interesting, provides an insight into the folklife of the village of Semberija and the old culture of Bijeljina. What catches one’s eye among the displays are the bone and the tooth of a mammoth, whose age has not been determined, and the radio set that was given as a personal gift to the Rodoljub Čolaković, a revolutionary and a write born in a rich Bijeljina family, by Nikita Khrushchev, the former leader of the Soviet Union. The Memorial Room for the Fallen Fighters in the last war has recently been opened.

On the main square, the Museum sits next to the building of the City Assembly, the monument to King Peter I Karađorđević and a small park with the pavement chessboard with king-size chess pieces. While a couple of men are trying to checkmate each other, a few others sitting on the benches are throwing in comments. Not so long ago, it was a way of life.

6. Because, from now on, you can also get discounts at our petrol stations in B&H

After visiting the Museum of Semberija and quenching our thirst for historical facts and beauty, we refreshed ourselves at Gazprom gas station Bijeljina 1. In a homey atmosphere, the friendly staff offered useful information about the new discounts. You can now use Serbian On the Road with Us loyalty cards in Bosnia too, and they tell us we can get more information in the section News on Discounts in B&H. Overwhelmed with experiences and ready to start our journey back, we headed home promising to return to Semberija –  where history has already spun many stories and the future has just begun to unfold its mysteries.

The splendor of heaven in which ten countries are reflected at about 2,850 kilometers. It enthroned four capitals. Strategically ever since extremely important, vital and naturally invaluable. From its springs in Germany, it rolls its violent waters rather lazily through the vast plains. All the way to Golubac Fortress, the lobby of Djerdap. Many say, this is where it is the most amazing. Where mighty waters have broken through the ramparts of the Carpathians.

A landscape dreamt up by the forces of nature boasts unreal beauty, concealing skillfully the traces of a turbulent and rich past, reaching to the very dawn of civilization.

Why visit Lepenski Vir and Djerdap gorge?

1. Because the Iron gate of the Danube is Europe ‘s greatest gorge

A breakthrough ravine, to be exact. Here, known as Djerdap. The name comes from the Persian word Girdap, which is adapted to Serbian, of the same meaning – whirlpool, vortex, dangerous place on the river. Today it is the natural border of Serbia and Romania.

It cut down along more than 100 kilometers of the right bank of the Danube. From the town of Golubac, where the Danube spreads sluggishly more than six to seven kilometers in width, who would measure it accurately. Then it awakes, rushes suddenly and then stops, floods and dries up, meanders a bit and then straightens, all the way until the mountain massifs in Kazan push it to about hundred meters of wideness, and it, being furious, undermines the deepest depths by its strength. It continues along its gorge until it reaches the fortress Diana near Kladovo. Surrounded by lush vegetation and forests, hills and mountains, imbued with the spirit of old cultures. Elusive and meek. Generous and cruel. Ravishing and terrible. Magnificent.

It is part of the Djerdap National Park, which covers about 63,800 hectares. In July 2020, the area of the Djerdap Gorge and its hinterland was declared a geopark by UNESCO. The first in Serbia.

2. Because Lepenski Vir is the oldest settlement on the old lady’s land

Older than the biblical flood, as our host begins the story. It began at about 9,500 B.C. There are lots of disagreements regarding the number of years… on the official site of the location it says 6,500 BC, some sources cite 8,000 BC. Whatever, it is considered the cradle of Europe.

They were extremely clever, those Lepenci. They chose the perfect place for their settlement, 100 meters downstream from today’s museum. Between the river rich in fish, near the whirl where the fish gathered due to the flow of water, and steep cliffs. They built houses and prepared food using only natural tools. They set their homes facing the east, to be warmed by the first morning sun. According to the bone analysis, they were extremely healthy, which is largely attributed to fish that accounted for about 70 percent of the diet. They lived in the same place for over 2,000 years. From the Mesolithic, the hunting-fishing-gathering community, they moved to the Neolithic, the farming and the livestock breeding. The population grew, and the space became tighter, which led to the movement of the population.

The discovery happened by accident, during extensive research that preceded the construction of the Djerdap HPP. The excavations are on display at the Lepenski Vir Visitor Center. The model, the Mesolithic and the Neolithic of the site itself, copies of monumental sculptures, utility items, reconstructed ways of burial and hologram reconstruction of former houses were presented.

Additional research into the culture that stunned the world is impossible. It’s submerged. Only the Danube knows the secrets.

3. Because Donji Milanovac is a town of unusual history

On the way to this young, picturesque place, one can take a break in the household of Kapetan Mišin breg, at about 170 meters above sea level, from where the view of the valley of Donji Milanovac spreads. You can see a collection of stone and wooden sculptures in the open air, visit a wine museum and taste Vlach dishes.

Before settling at today’s place, the town moved several times. Firstly, from the coast to the island of Poreč at the end of the XVII century before the invasion of the Turks. Then in the 1830s, it returned to the mainland because of frequent flooding, following the orders of Prince Miloš Obrenović when it was named Milanovac after Miloš’s firstborn, Milan. It was one of the first settlements built according to the regulation plan, designed by the Duke of Poreč Stefan Stefanovic Tank. Three decades later, when Gornji Milanovac was created under Rudnik, the determinant Donji was added to the town name. It moved to the present place in the 1970s when the construction of the Djerdap HPP began. It finally settled. It shouldn’t be moved again.

It is most famous for Captain Misha Anastasijević, a rich merchant, teacher and great benefactor, who bequeathed the famous Captain Misha’s building in Belgrade to his fatherland. His house was transferred to the present day small town, stone by stone, beam by beam. It was supposed to be a museum. But the building has been locked up for a long time. The adjacent building is the house of Tenka, which was also transferred from the original location. It is rented by TO Donji Milanovac. Both buildings were privatized in a package with the hotel Lepenski Vir, we have found out. They no longer belong to the people.

Donji Milanovac is also home to the Djerdap National Park Visitor Center, which presents various natural values, the diversity of flora and fauna and the cultural and historical sights of Djerdap. An interesting and receptive exhibition was organized in cooperation with the Natural History Museum in Belgrade.

4. Because Serbia and Romania kissed in Kazan

They almost did. A trivial 150 meters is missing. In Mali Kazan, the Danube is the narrowest and deepest. About 70 metres, according to some data, even 90 metres. Next up, Veliki Kazan is twice as wide. In these straits, everything boiled with whirlpools, rapids and vortexes, like in a cauldron (kazan in Serbian). Hence the name.

But even without a kiss, they make love. Serbia and Romania. They court each other in a seductive game of steep cliffs. But being jealous, the Danube doesn’t let them connect. And so on for centuries, millennia. A contagious romance. Love is born at first sight in all who witness this extraordinary matchmaking of nature. Inefficient, for now. The most romantic view is from the viewpoint Veliki Štrbac, the highest peak of Mount Miroč, from about 770 meters of altitude. It takes about 50 minutes to overcome the ascent. The effort pays off, very much so.

5. Because the Traian’s plaque testifies the importance of Djerdap for the Roman Empire

Not far from the Kazan Gorge is the Trajan’s Plaque, which marks the end of Trajan’s Danube Route. It was set up at the turn of the 1st to the 2nd century. The text, dedicated to the emperor himself, is carved into a rock in Latin and reveals that the path was made by cutting down mountain cliffs and supporting it by beams. Serious venture. Only three lines are readable nowadays. Due to the construction of HPP Djerdap, the Trajan’s road was flooded, and the plaque was raised 20 meters. The only way to get to it is by boat.

6. Because in Kladovo, a top-notch perch is being prepared

We are passing the Djerdap HPP. It’s a huge dam. Before Kladovo, there is the fortress Diana, built in the time of Emperor Trajan, which used to be an economic center with a pier. We’re getting hungry. Locals recommend the restaurant of the Aquastar Danube Hotel, on the coast. The terrace overlooks the town beach. Large, taken care of. The Danube, calm and clear. Hospitable.

It’s a big choice, but we choose the fish, the river fish. It must be fresh. Grilled perch and catfish chops. Prepared skillfully, perfectly. And a glass of wine, from the Negotin region. The prices are decent. Warm recommendation.

If you plan to spend the night in Kladovo, the following day can be just as interesting. Only a few kilometers downstream, near the village of Kostolac, there are the remains of the Trajan’s Bridge, which was more than a kilometer long and for about a thousand years it was known as the longest in the world. There are also the ruins of the Roman fortification of Pontes, built to protect the bridge.

One cannot squeeze Djerdap in a day. There are too many interesting things to see and secrets to discover. There will be another new occasion to socialize with the Danube. We stop at BS Kladovo to invigorate a tired four-wheeler and supply ourselves with snacks and refreshments for the trip. We paid, and with the Sa nama na putu app we got bonus points and saved for the next time. We get in the car reluctantly. On the way back, we will not enjoy the Iron Gate of the Danube. It was getting dark.

We continue the mountainous summer in central Serbia, in the vicinity of Kraljevo. On these heights, bordered by three waters – the Ibar, the Ribnica and the Brezanska rivers, whose deep valleys intersected Stolovi on long ridges and gave it a star shape. The western slopes created the gorge of the restless Ibar, the fairytalish valley, which hides the pearls of the Serbian Middle Ages.

Why visit Stolovi and Gradac?

1. Because wild horses are sitting on the Stolovi

Half wild, to be precise. Their exact number is not known, nor whether there are any loners and fugitives among them. However, it is known that cattle breeders have always lived in these mountainous areas. According to one of the many folk tales, the mediaeval hero above the heroes, Miloš Obilić, rode his horse – Ždralin, right on the Stolovi mount.

The horses were previously tamed by the local villagers who would take them back to the hills in the summer to have less work. In time, they would be left in the wild for longer and longer periods, sometimes even during the winter, and the horses would manage, learn to survive and finally become independent. And when they were brought back to the tame, they would often flee back to freedom. So they became semi-wild. In winter, conditions can be very harsh and horses are left without food, but some kindhearted souls find a way to deliver it to them.

The hike to see these four-legged gracious animals is quite arduous. We choose the road from the direction of the Žiča settlement. The most resilient ones can walk. We grabbed a plateau with a beautiful view of the environment, believing that we managed to reach high and far enough, close to the horses. While we are impatiently looking for them with our eyes, we are almost convinced that only an SUV can come this far. When suddenly, there is an “ordinary” four-wheeler arriving from a neighboring hill. All seats are occupied in the cabin, behind the a lady on the driver seat. She is smiling and relaxed as if she drives along a runway. We are confused, and at the same time, amazed. The merry five steered us uphill, as far as wheels can reach.

At some point, we leave the SUV and continue on foot. We do not know exactly where the horses are hiding, we just know we have to find them. As soon as we just conquer one hill, a new one emerges… Along the way, we meet a younger couple from Vojvodina, lovers of hiking in nature. They have been climbing, hiking and wandering since morning, but they do not give up. We are grateful for the unexpected company. It is easier. We joke and encourage each other. We finally see the much desired scene. Perseverance paid off this time. Several beauties calmly nibble on the grass, ignoring the newcomers. It was only when the young couple took the carrots out of their backpacks that they began to approach, slowly. The animal immediately smells food, but it also recognizes kindness. And they are not that wild, we thought. But be careful and gentle with these beauties.

There are several legends associated with the name of the Stolovi. According to one of them, the name comes from the main ridge that looks like a table from a distance. On the other hand, before the battle in Kosovo, Prince Lazar often hunted there, and benches and tables were made for lunch. According to the third legend, the first Serbian archbishop, Saint Sava, dined in a nearby monastery, Žiča.

The nature of the Stolovi is completely untouched and wild, like its most famous inhabitants. Not very wooded and quite dry, without streams and springs. Pastures, low vegetation, shrubs, wildflowers, and hills that stretch indefinitely.

We are satisfied, but exhausted. Our vehicle presumably also needs refreshment. The nearest gas station is in Kraljevo – NIS Petrol. We are not wasting time. We pay for fuel with the Drive.Go app, without going to the cash register. From the car, ‘cause we are in a hurry.

2. Because Maglič is the guardian of the heart of Nemanjić dinasty’s Serbia

Raised on a high, steep cliff. Hard to access. Almost unconquerable. It has survived hundreds of wars, uprisings and riots. It owes the appreciation to its position, but also to the fog, which would often occupy its bastions. According to folk tales, it had been named after that fog.

In addition to the fog, the fortress is shrouded in a veil of secrecy about his origins. It is not known for sure when and who raised it. It is assumed that it was built in the 13th century to protect the monastic endowments – Žiča, Studenica, Sopoćani and Đurđevi Stupovi, but also the once busy and lonely trade route that passed through the Ibar valley. The first written data about this medieval town come from 1337, from the time of Archbishop Danilo II, who built palaces and cells in Maglič.

The fortress covers more than 2,000 square meters, surrounded by walls with seven towers and the main one, Donjon Tower. Inside the city are the remains of a multi-storey palace with basements, the church of St. George, residential buildings, wells, and water tanks.

It has been declared a cultural monument of exceptional importance. But, as centuries ago, it remains inaccessible. There is no bridge over the Ibar. The swollen water took him away… And that one, according to the locals, was unsafe. Crossing is possible only by boat. At the moment, Maglič is in the scaffolding, works are being carried out to secure the ramparts. We have not been able to find out how long will it last. Nor when the Ibar will be bridged. In the meantime, the initiative “Let’s Renew Maglič” was launched, which would return the former city to its former glory. According to the mock-ups, it would look magnificent. Instead of the remains of the walls, the entrance to the Ibar valley would be dominated by a castle.

3. Because the Ibar valley is a natural and cultural pearl

The persistent water cut its way between two mountain giants – the Golija and the Kopaonik. Through the gorgeous nature, it had created unreal landscapes. Imbued with the breath of history and culture. It is called the Valley of Kings, the Valley of Centuries, and for romantic souls, it is the Valley of Lilacs. In the background of that name is a love story. According to one legend, the lilacs were planted by King Uroš I to express his love for the future Serbian queen Jelena, and according to another, their son, King Milutin, had the valley planted with lilac for his third chosen wife, after two failed marriages – third time the charm. One could maybe find some more tales about it. Whoever planted them must have done it for love, because the fragrant clumps, blue, pink and white colors still bloom today.

The Ibar river is a paradise for rafting lovers and is widely known for its Merry Descent. At the end of June or the beginning of July, hundreds of merrymakers are encouraged to sail downstream 25 kilometers to Kraljevo on rafts, rubber boats, kayaks or whatever they could sail and float. Fun and good time are guaranteed.

4. Because Gradac is the endowment of queen Jelena

She is known among the people as Jelena (Helen) d’Anjou. It is not known for sure from which country and family she originated, but it is assumed that her origin is connected with the Anjouans who ruled the south of Italy at that time. She used to sign as: “Jelena, by the grace of God, the queen of all Serbian lands and maritime lands”. She was the wife of the Serbian king Uroš I and the mother of kings Dragutin and Milutin. She had left an impressive mark in the Serbian medieval state. Her home was the first library and a college. She gathered poorer girls from the area and taught them various jobs and skills, but also literacy and music. She had ordered the transcription of books, which she later donated and bestowed and renovated many temples. Before her death, she became a nun and, at her own request, was buried in her endowment, the Gradac monastery. During the war with the Turks, her relics were moved and probably hidden. Even today, it is not known where they are.

The Gradac Monastery is housed on the slopes of the forested Golija mounting, above the Gradačka River. It was built in the last quarter of the 13th century. For the construction, Queen Jelena chose the best artists who, according to her instructions, combined Raska architectural style with sculptural ornaments of the Romanesque style. The frescoes, which suffered great damage, belong to the pinnacle of the monumental style, and are considered a continuation of the art of Sopoćani painters.

The main church, dedicated to the Most Holy Mother of God, was the tomb of Queen Jelena, and the smaller one was built in the honor of Saint Nicholas. It has suffered more demolition and looting, and a serious reconstruction was started only in the middle of the last century. Today it is a nunnery. A kind of testimony to the life of the great educator and wise Serbian queen.

5. Because the tavern At Mira’s offers old-fashioned gourmet delicacies

We have heroically overcome our hunger all day, knowing that a feast was waiting for us in one of the most famous Serbian taverns with a long history. In Bogutovac village. The tavern At Mira’s was officially opened in 1826, but there are data that catering existed here as far back as in 1770. Our meal starts with a glass of brandy, as our tradition commands. The choice of shuts is large, for everyone’s taste. The appetizer includes corn bread and a platter of cheese, cream and homemade “ajvar”. The soup in the cauldron follows, and then the main thing – pure veal kebabs and chicken skewers in foil, to which an unusual story is connected. Gourmets, who miraculously managed to leave some more empty spaces in their stomachs, can choose Lenin’s cake or a sexy salad. The extremely helpful and joking staff will explain the ingredients of the salad with an unusual name.

If you please the boss, he may show you his unique examples of motorcycles, the collections of paintings and various interesting and rare “junk”. Everything exudes the spirit of the ancestors. Food especially. The only problem may be occupancy. Wait for the place to be vacated, you will not regret.

They say that rich people go to the sea in winter, to exotic places, and spend hot and stuffy summers in the mountains. Quite understandable. We may not be able to afford distant paradise islands in winter, but we certainly can afford summer on mountain. To follow rich people at least half-way. The choice is plentiful. We choose a high-altitude beauty in southwestern Serbia, between Ivanjica and Novi Pazar, where nature still reigns. A journey without passports and accompanying complications. A suitcase full of good mood and exploratory curiosity.

Why visit Golija and Studenica Monastery?

1. Because Golija is dinaric beauty

It is not naked. On the contrary. It is one of the most forested mountains in our homeland. It was probably named after its enormity. It stretches for about 32 kilometres in a west-east direction. It occupies twice as much space as the gigantic Kopaonik. The highlanders from this area jokingly say: “Golija doesn’t know what delija (from Turkish deli – Turkish irregular soldiers) is.”

Dense forests of beech, fir, spruce. And a mountain maple that survived the ice age. It has hosted about 100 species of birds and mammals. Its resident is also a brown bear, so do not wander deep into the forest, or spend the night under the stars so that you are not visited by an uninvited guest.

The highest peak, Jankov kamen, rises to up 1,834 meters above sea level. There is a legend referring to the name, of course. Two brothers, Rajko and Janko, bet who will be the first to take up a bigger stone on the highest top of Golija. Rajko was stronger and faster, and Janko was more thorough and patient. Right before the top, Rajko stumbled and dropped a stone that rolled down into today’s Rajkov potok (Rajko’s stream). And Janko successfully reached the top, which today bears his name. It is not just a folklore myth. It is certainly a life lesson.

Due to the exceptional preservation of nature, it was declared a Nature Park in 2001, and in the same year, part of the Golija-Studenica Park was protected by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve.

Golija is also believed to be a mountain that “does not know about diseases”. Whoever visited it, at least for a short time, knows why. And he/she will be back, for sure.

2. Because Rudno is a fairy-tale village

About a hundred households settled on the slopes of Golija, at 1,100 meters above sea level. Scattered on wooded hills and sunny meadows, among potato and raspberry plantations and meadows decorated with wild flowers. On the wind rose where sea and continental currents touch.

Family mood. Everyone knows each other, they have coffee together, sip brandy, help each other. Smiling and cordial. Life without hot asphalt, smog and crowds.

The centre of the village is colourful. Several restaurants, a playground for children on the grass, a school, and a football field whose construction was paid for by a Dutchman. Fascinated by nature and the locals, this man decided to leave them something back. Those who do not have their hills and mountains know how to appreciate them. And hospitality offered. Kudos to the noble Dutchman. In the evening, young people gather on the field, play music from the car, dance, hang out. Rural football tournaments are often organized. Those who are bolder than the World Cup final.

The charms and secrets of Golija can be explored on foot, by bike or quads, which are rented. If you are a good rider, you can also use a horse, although only one is available, as we have learned. The children will certainly be happy if the owner “rides” them around the yard on a horse.

We left the horse to the kids and decided to stretch our legs. We walk, breathe deeply and along the way we pick wild strawberries, tiny, but sweeter than honey. We reach the place where you can see the ski roof of Serbia – Pančićev vrh, on the nearby Kopaonik. Two giants measure each other’s strength across the Ibar river.

We ended up in Vidovdan accommodation. New, clean, spacious. A dream on a starched pillow. Carefree and deep. Fortunately, there are still housewives who do everything the old-fashioned way.

3. Because the mountain breakfast keeps you full all day

Large terrace overlooking the sheep that graze peacefully just below it. We have breakfast together, each at their own table. The housewife brings out the “train”, never ending. The whole village could be fed. Cabbage and cheese pie, roasted pepper on kajmak (cream), donuts, buckwheat flour pies, meat delicacies… And sour cow’s milk. Healing. Everything from the local gardens and orchards, made with skilled hands.

After the morning feast, we wanted to take a nap, but we had to move on. A macadam road leads to the holiest monastery on Serbian ground. Shorter, but more uncomfortable. We didn’t choose it. We were guided by the popular saying: ” The longest way round is the shortest way home”.

4. Because Studenica is the ancestral shrine

It is neither the oldest nor the largest. But it is the first among equals. Mother of all Serbian temples. It settled down in the lush nature, behind the walls, away from ill-intentioned eyes and thoughts. Somewhere between the ground and the blue vault. Elegant and noble, aware of its earthly beauty and heavenly greatness.

Inside the spiritual fortification, a building of white marble, speckled with grey, with a reddish dome, and magnificent wall sculptures stands out. Church of the Mother of God. It was built by Stefan Nemanja, the ancestor of the Nemanjić family, as his grave church, from 1186 to 1196. The influences of East and West, Romanesque and Byzantine style intertwine. Harmonious and magnificent. Around 1230, King Radoslav built a narthex in front of the temple.

We enter timidly, almost silently. Marble floor. On the original entrance, the western portal, a sculpture of the Mother of God with Christ and the archangels, painted and gilded. Unusual, superbly made, precious. The transition to each subsequent chamber is a higher level – the path to salvation, explains the curator. The relics of Nemanja are kept there, in a sarcophagus.

There used to be 14 churches within the monastery, of which, in addition to the Mother of God, two more have been preserved – the King’s, Milutin’s endowment, dedicated to the Mother of God’s parents, St. Joachim and Anna, from 1314, and Nikoljača, dedicated to St. Nicholas, the smallest and the simplest to which visitors do not have access. The bell tower from the 13th century has also been preserved, and Sava’s dining room has been renovated.

In the monastery, Saint Sava wrote Studenički tipik (Studenica Code), which regulated the monastic life in Serbia, and Studenica was determined as free from church and secular authorities. Independent. It was and remains so. It also has its own cross – Studenica cross, a combination of early Christian symbolism of the anchor as salvation and growth and progress in the form of plant ornaments at the ends. On the facades are carved several drawings that are among the oldest preserved architectural designs and an unusual sundial.

5. Because Studenica frescoes are an invaluable treasure

After the death of his father, Sava invited the best masters of that time, most likely from Constantinople, to paint the Church of the Mother of God, which was painted until 1209. For the first time, the inscriptions on the frescoes were written in the old Serbian language, in Cyrillic alphabet. The symbol of the monastery is the Crucifixion of Jesus Christ, also known as the Crucifixion of Studenica, one of the most beautiful works of Byzantine art of the 13th century. Monumental fresco, of deep expressiveness. Byzantine blue predominates, which was obtained from a very rare semi-precious stone that was imported from Afghanistan, says the curator. A kilogram of paint was worth more than a kilogram of gold. Among the most significant wall paintings are the representations of the Mother of God of Studenica and the Most Holy Mother of God, as well as the frescoes of the Virgin’s life in the King’s Church from the early 14th century.

The exceptionality of Studenica, its frescoes and sculptural achievements was also recognized by the UNESCO organization. It was inscribed on the World Cultural Heritage List in 1986.

It can be observed and absorbed for hours, days. Always insufficient. It does not fit into words and photographs, nor into amazed looks and unrestrained sighs. Studenica is an art that is no longer being created, a history that writes tomorrow, a faith that does not give up at any cost. Woven into the foundations of Serbian spirituality and statehood. Special in everything. Its own.

6. Because towards Golija, even the breaks are unforgettable

We knew that a long and hard day awaited us, but not whether we would find a convenient place for refreshment in the mountains, so we realized that it was better to make provisions in time. Both for ourselves and the faithful four-wheeler. We stopped at the only gas station on the Miloš Veliki highway, Gazprom Sokolići. Freshly prepared sandwiches, a burger and Italian coffee. Diverse morning flavours for the upcoming adventure. We packed a few Drive Cafe hot dogs, bottles of Jazak water and a few snacks in our backpacks. To have just in case.

1. Because Koviljski rit is a Danube labyrinth

It is part of the Special Nature Reserve Koviljsko-petrovaradinski rit. We start from Kovilj’s lake Schleiz. Convenient place for a swim. Around forests, meadows, addices, reeds, and bulrushes. Floating carpet of water lilies, grasses, and all kinds of vegetation. “Drezga” is it, we are taught by an experienced host. The song of birds and the chatter of wings. Turtles lazing in the sun.

It’s a lot of fishing. Some fishermen huddle in the thick shade, some don’t care about the heat. The number of fishermen is not surprising. Here is one of the largest fish hatcheries in Europe, reveals the boatman.

Attention is drawn to a flower of unusual beauty and size. White lily. It makes a grenade, the Danube necklace. It used to be the main asset of the suitor, smiling guide. He emphasizes that it is forbidden to pick it. But a grenade can also be made of yellow water lilies, of which there is a handful. It’s all about romance.

We’re passing the place where Kusta made the movie “Black Cat, White Cat”. Here we are greeted by a cheerful group of kayakers who have left their vessels and are relaxed in the water. Sadly, we’re watching them, but there’s no time for snooping, unfortunately.

There are a lot of interesting things about the floodplain area along the Danube. When the water level is favorable, kayakers can venture on a 700-kilometer adventure, agrees on the mileage of the domestic duo. That must be interesting and exciting. Be brave!

The combined charms of nature. Soothing and refreshing. For all senses and soul.

2. Because the ada of the Krčedin is a Danube safari

There are many starting points towards Krčedinska ada. It can be reached from the Srem side and from the Koviljski rit, but the water level did not allow us, so it had to be around, from Gardinac, from Liman. We sail the Danube, cut through wild nature, in some places barely passable. Along the way, we meet a few “mangulica” (Serbian pig) and arrive at the “open” Danube. Soon, an unreal, magical sight emerges. Hundreds of cows, calves, prawns, ungulates, and lowly cattle strutting about with big horns. They all stepped into the Danube. “Up to the knee” only. Animals know how far they can go. There are some bottlenecks on the shore patiently waiting for the chilling line, and some have found salvation from the heat under the trees. Only the horses are running. It’s aimless. Black horses, kulashi, sharci, alati, dorati… Carefree and uninhibited. In the glory of freedom of life.

There are no friendly donkeys. The previous guard went and took them away, our guides are justifying themselves. The new one, obviously, didn’t arrive. The part at the “official” pier on Ada is neglected, uncleaned. It ruins the magic of this animal paradise, where time has stood still for a long time. And it doesn’t need to move on. Only the man should adhere to the inscription on the board: “Protect nature and its wealth because you are also a part of nature”.

3. Because Kovilj is the birthplace of romantic Laza

Kostić, of course. In Kovilj, he finished several grades of elementary school and left. However, he was happy to return there, the host reveals. He recounts a lot of Laza’s mischief and adventures. He liked to bohemian and drink spritzers. Once, in a nearby café, a piece of land fell into his glass. The waiter hurried to replace her, but the pawky poet thanked him: “Oh if you only knew how much of Lenka’s land I drank.” Lenka from the Dundjerski family, rich landlords, who also ruled the vast vineyard. It was great love. Unrealized. Unpainful.

Laza’s birth house is being converted into a museum. The locals say that only the tempering furnace remains from the poet’s era. Until the future museum opens the door, only the sign placed by the citizens of Gornji and Donji Kovilj set the building apart from the crowded neighbours.

4. Because the Kovilj monastery is more than a sanctuary 

There have been various accounts of the founding of the monastery, but there are no accurate data. It is mentioned in the document from the XIV century, and it can be reliably said that it existed at the end of the XVI century or at the beginning of the XVII century. Today’s monastery church was built in the first half of the XVIII century. It is reminiscent of medieval Serbian shrines, most notably the Monastery of Manasija. The church is dedicated to the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel. In addition to the gilded iconostasis, valuable icons, books, and manuscripts are kept, as well as paintings by Uroš Predic.

The monastery grounds are large, landscaped, stunning. It is also famous for its products – natural herbal balm, tonics, honey, fruit brandies, and green walnut liqueur. The Prior was once the Serbian patriarch of Porphyria, who launched the monastic community of the Land of the Living to cure addictive diseases.

5. For there is a nest of storks older than the United States of America 

And it’s not much of a feat, fooling around with the host, as he proudly leads us to a dried-up oak tree that he claims is more than 500 years old. It grew up across the street from the Kovilj Monastery, next to the old chapel. At the top of the hollow tree secured with cables, the storks were adopted. Mrs. Mom is guarding her two cocks, and Dad is out looking for food. Whether or not the storks have nested since the oak tree, you can’t be sure. A history of folk tradition and a little joke about the power of the ocean, and there’s a great commercial. And who would blame them? Especially since Kovilj is home to the largest community of birds that bring children to Serbia. You are waited and escorted. And they make you smile. Dear, sweet creatures.

6. Because Gazprom PS-Novi Sad 16 prepares juicy burgers

We’ve been cruising the wilderness of a violent river for a long time. The soul seeks invigoration. A quick one. We’re rushing to the nearest gas station. There are pastries, sandwiches of various flavours, and burgers – with cheese, bacon, chicken, royal… We choose a double and extra burger and scrambled eggs in a ham bun. Fresh, rich, juicy. We got it all on our breath. That’s when we get ice cream with forest fruit topping. The perfect sweet for the hot summer days. Nourished, sweetened and cooled, we are plowed for a new quest through the waters of the mysterious and always unpredictable Danube.

Serbia is home to countless splendours and wonders. Even a triangle. Not the Bermuda one, the devil’s dwelling place, but one that is no less secretive. If we imagine Belgrade, Novi Sad and Zrenjanin as its three angles, in the heart of this triangle we will see the tract of land between two rivers, the Tisa and the Stari Begej. The vast bodies of water, freely reflecting the thick vegetation that hides the wonderful world of animals. A little imagination and the queen of all sciences, on our journey to the place where nature earns a perfect ten for its command of mathematics.

Why should you visit Carska Bara?

1. Because the Pannonian Sea has created the Serbian Amazonia

Nothing was left of the vast sea except a mere pond. But it is “the emperor’s pond”. Without the expected glamour and luxury, though. Quite the opposite. Untouched, lush, carefree. The empire of plants and birds. The chirping and wing-clapping echoes through the thick growth of reeds, willow trees and waterlilies. The nature dances a harmonious three-step with the water, grass and woods.

It was named after the Austro-Hungarian aristocrats who used it as their favourite hunting ground. Later on, other nobles also carried their rifles there. Among those who fired their shots were the Habsburg crown princes Rudolf and Franz Ferdinand and King Aleksandar Karađorđević. All three died tragically. And they were not the only ones. Coincidence or not, history should be learnt from, and the only recommended “weapons” are camcorder, camera and binoculars.

Special nature reserve Stari Begej-Carska Bara covers an area of 4,726 hectares and is home to 500 species of plants, around 240 species of birds, 24 species of fish, and a number of endangered and rare mammal species. The area is divided into three zones of protection. Visitors are allowed only in the third. Access to the first zone is strictly prohibited, both for the safety of protected species, and for your own, as it is the home of wild cats and jackals.

Although it is a swampy area, not many mosquitoes buzz by. As in all places where humans never set foot, the nature keeps everything under control. And here, it has truly set its mind to be the mesmerizing “savage”.

2. Because a ride in the emperor’s boat can be unpredictable

The old boat grew tired and earned its retirement, and the new one is already starting its engine. The ride through the watery jungle is incredibly picturesque, and in the company of a chatty, genial ranger, it is also unexpectedly amusing. We listen with great interest the story of the most successful hunter on the planet, but also the biggest bully, the dragonfly. Looks sure can be deceiving. When the female rejects him, he doesn’t give up, and in his crusade he is often known to snap her head off with his claws. But, the females can certainly hold their own. They have tricks up their sleeves. Being of a different colour, the female can quickly change her colour, like a chameleon, to the one characteristic for males, and if that doesn’t fool him, she rolls on her back and plays dead.

Our wonderful host then tells us about the gluttonous cormorants and the ways in which they punish bad people, about the kingfisher, the beautiful and the smallest fish-hunting bird, and the gentle pond turtles. Our even-tempered, good-natured skipper keeps smiling and keeps the anecdotes coming. He tells us that the pond walnut tastes the same as the one we use in cakes and cookies, and that it has to be “picked” before it drops anchor and hooks itself to the bottom. What a duo!

The stories are adjusted to the visitors’ age. The boat “Carica” sets sail on weekends, and it can be rented out for up to 10 people, plus the captain.

Which animals you might meet along the way, you never know. Because nature is not a zoo; it is an adventure, full of surprises and always different.

3. Because you can live like an emperor all day long

With your family, with friends, or with someone you love. The site is modest in size, but is offers various opportunities – bird watching, cycling, hiking along the path of health, children’s playground, a small grassy field where you can play mini football or volleyball, if you tighten the net a little bit. Refreshments await you in the summer bar, but you have to take care of the food yourself. A picnic basket and a blanket on the grass, or wooden benches and tables under the pergola. Enjoy yourself, watch and listen. Just don’t have any barbecues.

4. Because Kaštel Ečka was the resort of aristocrats

It was opened with great ceremony in 1820. The celebration lasted for three days. On the last evening, a grand ball was held, and a nine-year-old sat at the piano. The Wunderkind. Franz Liszt. Later a prolific composer. Also in attendance was the widely renowned Count Esterházy. Ever since then, it has long been the favourite haunt of avid hunters and nobles. The estate was purchased 50 years later by Count Felix Harnoncourt, who built an addition and changed the castle. Today’s appearance of the main house dates from the late XIX and early XX centuries, when the family was at its height.

We are welcomed by the armoured knight, in true size. Hunting trophies hang on the walls of the side hallway. We go out into the garden. It is spacious, landscaped, full of flowers and greenery. With a fountain and a kids’ playground.

Today, it is a cultural monument and a hotel. The former ballroom has been converted into a restaurant, which also spreads onto the magnificent terrace. The ambiance evokes the art of living of aristocracy, in the times long gone.

5. Because in Kaštel you eat like an emperor

We were trying to choose between fish specialties in the Sibila restaurant, right across the way from the entrance to Carska bara, and the Latin flavours in Etno selo Tiganjica, but the atmosphere of the castle enchanted us. So, why don’t we be nobles for a while. We choose the kaštel goulash with mushrooms, flavoured chicken with a gnocchi bake, and slow-roasted pork ribs, glazed with BBQ sauce. Every morsel is fit for an aristocrat’s palate. Chicken in Marsala wine and the famous turkey mlinci will have to wait for our next visit. We will be back, for sure. Before we say goodbye to one of the most beautiful castles in Serbia, we take a walk through the lavish garden. Nobles of the past would certainly do the same.

6. Because BS Zrenjanin provides royal service

After a day of royal time spent in nature, going back to the asphalt road can be difficult, and the last thing you need is to spend too much time at a gas station. That is why the NIS Petrol station near Zrenjanin is the best. You can fill your tank and pay for the gas without even getting out of your car. All you need is a very convenient app, Drive.Go, and after just two or three clicks, your stay at the gas station will be the briefest ever. Royal!

We are hundreds of miles apart. Not much similar, but related for centuries. The depth of interconnection between two nationalities is not easily discernible.  In addition to religion, culture, history, tribulations, wars, etc., a kind of a secret relation between Russian and Serbs has been developed. Some people consider it even mystical. Friendship may be as such too. Serbia has proven it after the October revolution, when a large number of Russians, particularly members of nobility and intellectual elite were leaving their homeland. Many of them fled to Serbia where they were accepted as near kins, unconditionally. The Russians needed a sanctuary and home, and Serbia, which had been demolished and devastated by wars, needed help. And it got it. As good as possible. Educated doctors, engineers, scientists, artists, etc. Many future Serbian intellectuals owe their knowledge mostly to Russian professors, and Belgrade owes eternal gratitude to Russian builders.

Why become acquainted with Russian heritage in Belgrade?

1. Because Krasnov built magnificent edifices

He was born in Podmoskovye. He graduated from Moscow School of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture. In 1922, Nikolay arrived in the capital of Serbia upon the invitation of the Union of Russian Engineers and Technicians of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes.

The most romantic church of Belgrade, Ružica in Kalemegdan Park, demolished in 1915 during the Austrian attack, was reconstructed according to Krasnov’s design. Two bronze sculptures made of war materials – a Serbian infantryman from WWI and the Balkan Wars, and a knight from the period of King Dušan’s reign are guarding the church. “Design by Nikola” is the way he signed his projects using the Serbian equivalent name. He realised his talent for the monumental and decorative through the Archive of Serbia, the first building constructed for this purpose in the Balkans, and the Yugoslav Drama Theatre building, which does not look now like former Menjaž. He provided today’s buildings of the Government of Serbia and the Ministry of Finance with his recognisable hallmark. He participated in decorating the Royal Palace and park in Dedinje. He did the interior decorating of the House of the National Assembly to the smallest detail. Monumental staircase, marble floor, luxurious dome. Representative diplomatic reception room, with silk wallpapers, white wood wall panelling and furniture to match. Expensive, classy, rich. Like the Russian Empire.

He was buried in the Russian section of the New Cemetery in Belgrade. A street in Vračar Municipality has been named after him. A monument has been built to him In Mali Tašmajdan Park. Many Krasnov’s works are now cultural monuments. The great Nikola(y) swept the traces of oriental over night, providing strong, elegant architecture to which is Belgrade proud of even today.

2. Because Samoylov brought the spirit of modernism

He was brought up in a wealthy, respectable Cossacks family. He fled from Crimea on the last ship and reached Belgrade, where he took up his studies. An artist with many talents. He is the creator of the first “glass” building in Belgrade, former Jugobanka at Kralja Petra Street, surrounded by older neighbouring beauties. He is also the creator of another impressive edifice with facade glass areas, the Faculty of Mechanical Engineering building, whose interior is particularly interesting due to the hall lighting. He also designed the Pension Fund building in Terazije Square, which he was adapting to the requirements of  Theatre-on-Terazije in the last year of his life and designed the acoustics and air conditioning of the room by himself. He decorated one of the most representative edifices in Belgrade, Moskva Hotel, with stained glass, inspired by Russian fairytales, and stone mosaics containing traces of Russia, Moscow and Serbia, his new homeland.

Grigoriy won the award of the City of Belgrade for one of many villas he designed in Senjak. He worked on the reconstruction of SANU building and SANU gallery. He completed around 180 projects over six decades. He was buried in the Russian necropolis at the New Cemetery in Belgrade.

3. Because Baumgarten made a home for Russians in Belgrade

Over Turkey, from Saint Petersburg to Belgrade, where he worked in the contemporary Royal Army. The magnificent edifice has adorned the capital’s Kraljice Natalije Street since 1933. He made it for the newly created Russian community in Belgrade. For gatherings, socialising, nurturing their tradition and culture. One of the largest and oldest spiritual Russian centres outside the fatherland. It has changed names. Now, this is the Russian Centre of Science and Culture in Belgrade. However, it is still the Russian House for everybody else. The place where people always like to go and whose door is always open. He also entrusted Belgrade with the headquarters of the General Staff of the Royal Yugoslav Army, which was declared the most beautiful building of the capital in 1937, and protected as cultural property later on. After WWII, Vasily moved to Argentina.

4. Because Stasevskiy is the creator of the Russian sanctity in Tašmajdan

He was born in Saint Petersburg, where he acquired the title of civil engineer. He was a colonel in the Russian army. Apparently small, but great Russian sanctity has found its place in the favourite park of the citizens of Belgrade, behind the St. Mark’s Church. The Church of the Holy Trinity. Built in 1924 according to the design of Stasevsky. Typical Russian sacral masonry, tucked in greenery. A lump of Russian land was placed in the foundation, the anti-Bolshevik leader, baron and general Pyotr Wrangel was buried in the crypt upon his own request, and a piece of a wool scarf of Tsesarevich Alexei Romanov is stored in the frame under glass.

Valery is also the creator of the first modern garage downtown, where cars of participants of the first Belgrade international motor and motorcycle race, held in 1939, were kept. Today, this is the Automobile Museum. Afterwards, he worked on his own and designed a lot of residential houses, settlements and mansions. He went bankrupt because of one private venture and lost reputation in his profession. He continued to create under other people’s names, hence it is considered that he left a lot more to Belgrade than evidenced by the preserved documents. After WWII, he moved to Morocco.

5. Because Vasilyev fitted a castle within a fortress

There is not much information on Aleksey. However, we know that he is responsible for the building of today’s Military Museum. He designed in the style of middle-age castles and perfectly fitted it in the historical ambience of the Belgrade Fortress. It has mostly preserved its original appearance so far. He showed up like a wizard, drew a castle with his magic wand and disappeared leaving no trace.

6. Because Verhovsky perpetuated Serbian heroes

He graduated from College of Arts of the Imperial Academy of Arts in Saint Petersburg, and moved to Serbia in 1920. Monument to the Defenders of Belgrade 1914-1918, the most significant form of gratitude to fighters of the Great War in Belgrade, was made upon Roman’s drafts. As regards dimensions, number of ornaments and expressive symbolism, it is one of the most splendid memorial facilities in Serbia. It presents the power of people. Of the Serbian soldier, winner, detached chains of slavery, and one white and one black eagle as the symbol of triumph of good over evil. Bones of 3,529 known and 1,074 unknown heroes are kept in the crypt of the Memorial Ossuary. According to the creator’s idea, the message of the monument is as follows: Let there be eternal glory to arms and the winning hero, to whose honour this monument was built. An extraordinary sculpture, hidden from the eyes of the citizens of Belgrade and visitors. It deserves much more conspicuous and visible location, in historical and art terms.

7. Because Kolesnikoff made the National theatre magical

The famous painter arrived in Serbia after WWI and was soon required to paint the ceiling of the auditorium in the National Theatre building in Belgrade. He chose baroque composition, rich in colours and classic antique topics glorifying theatre as the temple of art. The ceiling was damaged during the fascist bombing in 1941 and was completely removed during the post-war reconstruction, which made the artist very disappointed. However, during the last great works performed in 1986, the ceiling was reconstructed on the basis of preserved sketches. Unfortunately, Stepan Fedorovitch Kolesnikoff did not live enough to see the revival of his work.

He painted ceilings and walls of many buildings, and his paintings are today kept in the largest museums all over the world. He was buried with his compatriots at the New Cemetery in Belgrade.

8. Because learning Russian does not have to be rocket science

Cyrillic script, cases, tenses, many seemingly identical or only similar words represent a stage where well-known friends – Serbian and Russian languages have been playing for centuries. This dance of genetically related Slavic languages may be seducing. In the blink of an eye, they turn from Kozachok to Moravac, then to Russian Quadrille, and in the end to Kukunjes. They mix up the steps and in no time, a familiar sound of a word causes a surprise or laughter. An while your Russian dance partner is trying to explain “bukva”, you will think of a deciduous tree with a lush treetop.

To understand each of these dances and learn steps for dancing with the Russian language, the Centre of Russian Geographical Society and NIS prepared a Stident’s Book for learning Russian called “Ни пуха ни пера!”. NIS funded its entire development within NIS programme called “Knowledge Energy”. This book will show you the easiest way to acquire the Russian language at the beginner level through modern learning methods. A PDF version of the book and audio materials may be downloaded for free: https://www.nis.rs/ruski-jezik-udzbenik/

Start dancing confidently and slide into a harmonious dance of learning Russian!

“Ни пуха ни пера!”

We are certain that the Russian language knowledge will make exploring the Russian heritage even more fun. See you again in the new episodes dedicated to the Russian heritage in Serbia.

Where branches of the gigantic Carpathians meet the vast plain, the slopes of the Vršac mountains embrace the sun, and the sighs of unpicked grapes and the fragrant tastes of wine are aroused by the untamed Košava wind. Where sometimes the breath of the Serbian Sahara and the Deliblato sands come and go, a small town shrunk. It’s at the bottom of the hill. It’s friends with Romania. It hugs Banat.

Why visit Vršac?

1. Because Vršac is a city of wine and famous people 

It was first mentioned in the historical records in 1427 under the name Podvršan. The names of the city have changed slightly, but the summit has remained until today. It is also called Sterija’s town, after the father of Serbian dramatic literature, Jovan Sterija Popović. This is certainly justified, but perhaps a little unfair to other famous people from Vršac – painter Paja Jovanović, chess grandmaster Bora Kostić and poet Vasko Popa, who was born in the nearby village of Grebenac.

Vršac is best known for its vast and abundant vineyards, which bore fruit even in the time of the Dacians and Roman rule. It remained eternally faithful to the drink of the gods. Every September, it hosts the Vršac Grape Harvest Days, which locals have sympathetically christened Grožđebal (Grape Ball).

Today it lives in a wealth of different national communities, cultures, and religions. In peace and harmony. It managed, miraculously, to contain all sorts of tempers. The citizens of Vršac are friendly, relaxed, and smiling. One can see that they love their city. It is clean and tidy.
A lot of people could follow in their footsteps.

2. Because the city beauties enchant you at every step

At a time when culture and everything old-fashioned has been neglected, Vršac cherishes its heritage. Especially its architecture. There are no skyscrapers or fancy high buildings made of glass. Everything is harmonious and lovely. One could even say poetic. It is a pleasure to walk and look around. Among the most magnificent buildings are the Bishop’s Palace of the Banat Diocese from 1750, which after the renovation took on a neo-baroque and neo-Renaissance appearance, and the neo-Gothic Town Hall (Magistrate). Don’t miss the opportunity to climb the stairs to the pharmacy. The Baroque building where the first Vršac pharmacy At the Saviour’swas opened in 1784. It is one of the first pharmacies in Serbia. Locals claim that it was actually the sixth in Serbia.

Ethnic diversity has also contributed to its rich religious architecture. The cathedral of the Holy Father Nikolaj, from the second half of the 18th century, is the oldest Orthodox church in Vršac. The Roman Catholic church of St. Gerhard dating from the second half of the 19th century. An impressive neo-Gothic place of worship with towers touching the clouds. It undoubtedly dominates the city. Romanian Orthodox church, built at the beginning of the last century. Large and colorful, on the outside. We did not enter, nor did we enter the Catholic one. They are both closed. Whether we showed up at the wrong time or whether they only open their doors for special occasions, we were unable to find out. Too bad. The interior of both must be equally lavish.

On the main square is the building where Karađorđe was staying. On his return from Russia, in the early days of July 1817, he secretly stayed at the Stenger Inn. In a hurry, in the spirit of the eternal insurgent, he did not pay the bill with money but left two silver firelock guns. The inn is now history, but the building holds the memory of Karađorđe, his painting, and the name Two Guns.

3. Because the city museum is the heir to the works of the famous realist

It is housed in the Concordia building, with stylistic features of classicism. Founded in 1882. It owes a great debt of gratitude to a researcher, teacher, and publicist Felix Milleker, who made a significant contribution to the museum’s collection. The atmosphere is warm, non-sterile as in most buildings that guard cultural treasures. The social and cultural life of the city is presented in the Chronicles collection. Two rooms with the paintings of Paja Jovanović. The famous “Vršački triptych” and a life-size portrait of Aleksandar Karađorđević, painted a few years before the assassination in Marseille, and several other portraits of famous people, as well as an authentic color palette used by the world-renowned realist. Archaeological and ethnological collections are also on display, and weapons will soon be presented, too. The museum space in the Concordia building is not large, but the setting is very interesting and receptive.

4. Because Sterija wrote his works in it

It was raised by Sterija’s brother Đorđe in the second half of the 19th century on the foundations of the old one, in which Jovan was born. Authentic furniture, piano, and writing desk where he created “Pokondirena tikva”, “Zla žena”, “Kir Janja”, and “Laža i paralaža”. Some original manuscripts, photographs, and portrait of Sterija, by Uroš Predić, another master of realism, are also on display.

He was a great patriot and intellectual, a freedom-loving man. He is credited with founding the National Museum and the Serbian Learned Society, the forerunner of the Academy of Sciences and Arts. He lives through his imperishable literary works. Perhaps it is quite fair that Vršac is also called Sterija’s town.

You don’t just walk into Sterija’s house. The phone number of the person who will let you in is marked on the door. While you are waiting for the key bearer, don’t waste your time. The next-door neighbor is a wine cellar. Take a peek, it looks very wine-like.

5. Because the city park is a botanical garden

It was modeled after French and English parks, a mixed landscape. Numerous species of deciduous and evergreen trees, ornamental shrubs, and colorful flowers. Holiday benches, children’s playground, fountain, and an antique café with a large terrace. At the entrance there is a warning: “In case of increased wind, do not enter”. Eh, what do increased mean here where the wind always blows and whistles.

6. On Vršac petrol station you can pay with the IPS code

Vršac hides many wonders, from divine wine, through works of art, to modern wonders. For example, at NIS petrol station Vršac you can pay for fuel and other purchased items even if you forgot your wallet. It will be enough to use your bank application on your phone and select the “IPS show” option. Your phone will then generate a QR code that the cashier will read and withdraw directly from your account.

And a more practical and faster way to continue your tour of the remaining beauties of Vršac as soon as possible.

7. Because the best flyers are trained in Vršac

While we are curiously searching every nook and cranny, planes keep flying by. No worries. We know they are ours. Vršac is known for its Air Force Academy. It trains those of our excellent pilots who land the aircraft imperceptibly, like fluff. We didn’t ask for a ride above the city. Some other time.

8. Because there is a viewpoint on the mass hill

It can be reached by car or stairs from the city itself. It is nicely arranged with benches for socializing or solitude. On the plateau, there is the chapel of the Holy Cross, the oldest Catholic church in Banat, built in the 1720s. Nearby is the church of St. Theodore, the health trail, the extreme sports club, and a little higher than them, the Vršac castle. It is located halfway to Niška Banja, where we intend to spend the night and relax before we embark on new Niš experiences at dawn.

9. Because the Donjon tower once protected Vršac

You will easily reach the parking lot, and after a short walk, through the woods. You’ll enjoy it. No, it was not raised by Đurađ Branković, but by Hungarian kings, and not in the XV, but in the XIV century, our host guide, a historian, is persistent. He corroborates the claim by the fact that the former fortification was mentioned in the chronicles as early as 1323. It has a slightly younger twin in Čakovo, the birthplace of Dositej Obradović. The most preserved is the Donjon Tower, 20 meters high. It is often adorned with artistic settings. There should be a great view from here…but not quite. It is blocked by a giant television transmitter. It could be set on some other nearby hill.

10. Because the village of Gudurica is a wine paradise

It is about ten miles from the city. In the vineyards, of course. They call it Europe in miniature. There are 14 nations living there. There are many wineries. But like any comrade on the road, we choose the one just in its infancy, for our soul. Well, if it is good for the winery owner’s soul, it will be good for ours as well.

We sip homemade wine on a specially made set of barrels, surrounded by a grinder, press, and other wine tools. Hors d’oeuvre – sausages, smoked delicacies, homemade ajvar, pickles, and bread coated with fat and sprinkled with aleva pepper are also presented. The forgotten taste of childhood. The place is perfect for wine. Sunny slopes, land suitable for fruit and vines and wind roses. “The disease is going away,” said the owners who pride themselves on their healthy grapes that are much less sprayed than in other parts of the country. They are grateful for the winds. Before departure, we sweetened ourselves with strudel and cherry pie. The good hosts did their best. Great wine afternoon. If only the tambourines had played. Some other time.

On the way back, the sun sets in the distance, and the wind is just beginning to move little sleepy windmills. Large and numerous. “Vršac, a nice town,” Sterija called said. We couldn’t agree more. It was immortalized with a brush by the maestral Paja Jovanović, and Vasko, almost a native of Vršac, sang succinctly and in his own way:

In the hands of a winegrower

Stretched from the cloud

Golden cluster

In a single grain of corn towers

In the other a magical Hill

In the third mother plain…