Strange climate has taken hold. Winter without winter. It doesn’t snow when it should. But the good old Balkans are still holding on tight, with their high-altitude beauties which stay defiantly white for several months. Well, if winter will not come to us, we will come to winter. There, in a natural park in the far east of Serbia, amidst the snow magic.

Why visit Stara Planina?

1. Because with G-Drive diesel, we are game for anything

Fortunately, you can find NIS Petrol and Gazprom petrol stations on the most diverse roads of our beautiful Serbia, so even the most remote areas become more accessible. It is exactly what happened on our “expedition” to Stara Planina: even though quite far, we arrived there easily, with several well-positioned stations along the way where we recharged our energies, all of us – we with snacks and our car with superior G-Drive diesel. Frankly, folks, we were freezing, unlike our engine: it wasn’t -30 degrees but G-Drive can handle even that!

2. Because St. George monastery is soothing balm for your soul

A few kilometers from the road towards Stara planina, on the bank of the Temšice, in the forgotten nature of the village of Temska resides the monastery estate. Magnificent. Inside the estate, there are several lodgings and a church. It is believed that the Dejanović brothers built it at the end of the 14th century in the wake of the collapse of the Dušan’s empire on the foundations of a temple from the 11th century of the unknown benefactor. The church is dedicated to St. George. It was painted in the second half of the 16th century. The frescoes are quite well preserved and just a little faded. It has low door jambs so watch your head. The monastery is also known as Temska after a nearby old town of Temac. It is famous for its balms for skin diseases prepared according to recipes of Russian nuns who settled there in the 1920s. It is still a nunnery today.

The estate is also home to many domestic animals. There are chickens, peacocks, cats and a golden retriever who makes his presence known with a friendly bark looking for some tenderness. A real host! He is here to welcome and see off well-wishers.

3. Because along the way you will be knocked out by the queen of sausage

Peglana kobasica, or Ironed sausage. Pirot deaconry is widely known. The sausage is made of the highest quality goat meat, lamb and beef from the Stara planina region without veins and fat. Spices are mixed in to get a unique rich taste. Before serving, it must be dried and regularly “ironed”, thus it gets the shape of a horseshoe. In the rural household, right next to the road, you can also buy smoked barbecue sausage, smoked neck and smoked or dried meat. Everything is full of flavours and calories which you will definitely need in winter escapades.

4. Because Bigar is a work of art of water

The road further winds towards the village of Kalna. In addition to the enchanting nature, it is difficult not to notice houses. Many of them are dilapidated, decayed, deserted. Sad. Very sad. Our villages are dying out. Gloomy thoughts are interrupted by a refreshing view. Bigar waterfall. It is named after a light, perforated stone, a bigra, over which crystal clear water falls. Some call it the Water cat. Maybe because the waterfalls of Bukovski potok flow like a nimble cat over 35 meters high hollow rock before flowing into the Stanjanska river. A perfect place at about 450 meters above sea level to pause, listen to the murmur of water and take a break before climbing to the ski resort.

5. Because Stara planina is a family paradise

It is the second largest ski center in Serbia. Mild, more relaxed and cordial than its undisputed rival. With much more affordable prices. It offers winter sports fans about 13 kilometers of groomed trails and a children’s park with a conveyor belt. While youngsters master the first skills on the boards, under a watchful eye of experienced instructors, parents can rest in two nearby cafes, and those with a deeper pocket, in the Stara planina hotel.

Time has betrayed us. Thick fog. Dense like dough. It settled down without the slightest intention to lift. Not an unusual mountain day. But the most persistent fans of the trail are not deterred. The queue lined up in front of the gondola. The first in Serbia. It overtook Zlatibor. When mountain winds relentlessly howl and freeze, it is worth it all. It is also open for panoramic rides.

The little ones, out for a descent, huddle, slide, sled enjoying the snow. Red cheeks and leaking noses. Jabber frost, as they say.

After the evening walk, when the snow magically squeaks under your feet, you spend an evening playing a game, chatting with friends and family and then off to bed. No time to waste. We need to re-charge batteries for new snow adventures.

6. Because it offers adrenaline for skilled skiers

And snowboarders. Sunny valley and Konjarnik. The black and red trails are interconnected, which makes it a more challenging and demanding endeavor. At their “mouth”, the restaurant and rest place Plaža is located. And it is called that (eng. beach) for a reason. Whatever ray the sun offers, it is aimed right there, at a large terrace studded with deck chairs for winter sunbathing and a view of the highest peak, Midžor. Inside you can warm up by the fireplace, fortify yourself with beans, lamb cooked in an iron pan covered with ember, or just some homemade cheese and sausage. You are ready again to whirl in the snowdrifts.

7. Because mountain food is the law

Especially in Stara planina. It is all home-made. Locally. Inevitably, it starts with belmuž. Young white cheese is combined with white flour (bel), it requires constant mixing and a strong male hand so it is often prepared by a husband (muž). Miracles happened in ancient times! And so the belmuž was born, once pastoral food high enough in calories to last you the whole day. Today it is considered a specialty found on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Serbia. We also order a plate of homemade cheese, soup and game stew. The host is a hunter. No mistake. Kafanče Ždrma. We don’t know how it got its name, but it is possible that the locals swallowed a “couple” of letters and in their own way combined eating and napping in one word known only to them. We let imagination run wild thinking of an unusual name. Lungs filled with fresh, sharp air, we are satisfied and ready for a repose. Deep and calm. Like mountains.

“Not far away from Rasina and Jastrebac, yonder high…” the capital and the vital centre rests. Long ago it was. The history remembers it. Our memory has always been fleeting only. Though unjustly cast aside, it was never reproachful.  It stands in adamant defence of its heritage. With minds and hearts of its citizens always looking southward, towards Serbia.

The great Serbian romantic poet was lucky to grow up and to spend his youth in the embrace of the wooded slopes of Fruška gora and the waters of the mighty Danube. We are, probably, late for growing up here, but not for acquainting with this place. It’s always a good time to socialise. Even when winter from the outskirts allows the frosty winds to stir up the waters of the beautiful blue river along the banks of the town of Branko Radičević.

1. Because Karlovci is a city museum

Prague is often mentioned as a city bearing this title. With a deep bow to the Czech capital, the jewel of Srem still has something to be proud of – wine, centuries-old education and spirituality. And the Danube as well. It bristled up, frowned, scowled. As if it wants to be alone. Only swans and fearless boatmen dared to touch it. What torment made him defy the waves of the raging giant? The banks are deserted, despite the coastal restaurants and cafes. It is completely different in spring, summer. It is immediately clear that we will return as soon as possible.

The core of the city is tiny, but special. It exudes elegance, the spirit of the former, true lordship. Without the admixture of newly composed architectural expressions. Stopped in some past, cultural times. And resists them. To the joy of its locals, but also visitors.

Among the magnificent architecture, the attention is attracted by a timeless but well-maintained house, now a cafe. It stands out with its oldest wrought iron door from the second half of the 19th century. Branko’s square is bordered by magnificent buildings – the Theological Seminary, the Magistrate, the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity, the Theological Seminary, and Stefaneum. And on a nearby hill, a building was built, with yellow-red facades to keep an eye on the town’s events

2. Because Karlovci bred the first Serbian grammar school

A bust greets us in an impeccably arranged garden. Branko writes. Enough to say “Branko”. It is well known which Branko. There is only one in Karlovci. We enter the lobby and read the history of the first Serbian high school. It was founded by metropolitan Stefan Stratimirović in 1791, and a year later it officially started working. The old building was demolished in 1890 and a new one was erected in the Serbian-Byzantine style with a richly decorated main entrance. Since the beginning of the 20th century, classes have been available to girls as well.

We pass through stained glass doors from which long corridors extend. Tiled floors, painted vaults, antique lamps and chandeliers, stone staircase with balustrade. It looks more like a palace than an educational institution. And the classrooms are somehow special. Each one brought to its purpose, woven of attention and love. Where we went to school, we sadly remembered our high school days.

We open a massive wooden door to the realm of books. Aristocratic. It smells of knowledge, poetry, and antiquity. The library consists of more than 18,000 titles, gifts from former students, professors, and benefactors. On the shelves are also the first photo type edition of Miroslav’s Gospel, a gift from king Aleksandar Obrenović, the first editions of Dositej Obradović, Vuk Karadžić, Branko Radičević…

Another room of special beauty. Ceremonial hall. All painted, in moderate tones, donors laid in the walls, velvet chairs. For concerts, performances, celebrations.

It had educated many great Serbian names, but she is widely known for Branko. In its benches, he composed the first rhymes. Today, it is a philological high school where modern and classical languages are studied. It is an honor to learn and teach in it. Its significance was perhaps best described by one of the former students and professors:

3. Because the Patriarchal palace was the home of the head of Serbian church

One of the most beautiful bishop’s palaces in Serbia. It was built at the end of the 19th century in the style of Italian palaces, on the site of the former Pasha’s residence, which was the first seat of the patriarch of the Serbian Orthodox Church after the transfer of the archbishopry from Peć, until 1920. Today it is the residence of the Bishop of Srem. The court chapel was personally painted by Uroš Predić.

The rich treasury inherits many valuables – icons, manuscripts, portraits of metropolitans and bishops, throne crosses, golden and silver bowls, goblets, and icons. The oldest book is “Cvetnik”, from the 15th century. Inside the court garden, there is a Patriarchal crypt and a wine cellar. Moreover, the priests make wine. And it is great. The courtyard is currently being renovated and is not shining in full splendor.

4. Because the temple of Saint Nicholas is the favorite church of the newlyweds

The legend says that whoever drinks water from the Fountain of four lions, on Branko Square, will return and get married in Karlovac. Many of them have. Right in the cathedral church of St. Nicholas.

It was built in the middle of the 18th century. At the end of the same century, it was destroyed in a fire, but it was quickly rebuilt at the beginning of the 19th century, when it received a Renaissance facade, which adorns it today. The magnificent iconostasis, the work of Teodor Kračun and Jakov Orfelin, stands out. He keeps two relics – parts of the relics of another Serbian archbishop, Saint Arsenij Sremec, and the miraculous icon of the most Holy mother of God of Bezdin, as well as paintings by Paja Jovanović.

5. Because the west and the east love in Karlovci

Dressed in a baroque cloak, the influences of Austria-Hungary and the Turks lash together, interwoven with threads of various artistic styles. United in a fairy-tale Karlovci story. Common and personal. The streets are narrow, bordered by residential houses, many dilapidated, and some decorated with lace curtains, craft shops, wineries and wine cellars. We imperceptibly reached an unusual attraction, the Match Museum, then the Museum of Beekeeping and the Peace Chapel, built on the site where the famous Peace of Karlovac was signed in 1699. Also nearby are Ilion Palace and Sremski Karlovci Inherent Collection. The city is trapped in its culture and history. With no intention of modernizing as it seems.

6. Because Karlovci are magical also from above

Before the hike to the Duško’s lookout, from where the the view embraces and hugs Karlovci, you should take a break and refresh yourself with a glass of Fruška gora wine. The lookout was built as a large open-air stage with two levels, on which there is a gilded cross and the sculpture of the poet Dusko Trifunovic, who rests in Karlovac. Relax on the steps next to the famous poet and enjoy the view.

7. Because Srem cuisine is a combination of Serbian and “Swabian”

Good food has always been eaten in Srem. Very often and too much. If you have not had your breakfast, do not worry, everything can be made up. On the menu, all kinds of delicacies – from homemade chicken soup, “rindfleisch” (beef), bacon, cracklings, to meat delicacies. We will not be hesitant. We start from appetizers, through beef stew to rolled chicken liver and seasonal salad. Do not leave the table without a glass of “bermet”, aromatic dessert wine, which goes well with Bundt cake, a German cake that has become domesticated and is prepared in several ways – with the addition of hazelnuts, almonds, raisins, walnuts…

8. Because the poet of Karlovci is resting on Stražilovo

Srem calories are hard to burn, but worth a try. A walk through the Palace Garden or towards the direction of the Fruška gora mount. The closest picnic area is Stražilovo. There is no lack of well-kept mountain trails through nature, for popular hiking. We breathe deeply and rush towards Branko’s height.