8 reasons to visit Rajačke and Rogljevske pimnice (Rajac and Rogljevo Wine Cellars)

said, who else but a Frenchman. A member of the nation that has understood all the secrets and joys of divine beverage. When, in the second half of 19th century, a wicked louse devastated French vineyards, they were looking for wines similar to theirs. And they found them. On Serbian land. On the triple frontier with Bulgaria and Romania. On the sandy soil surrounded by three mountains on one, and the Danube and the Timok rivers on the other side. Where the Sun shines on the vine about 260 days per year, and gives special sweetness to grapes. If there is something to believe to the successors of Gals, then it is all related to wine. Whatever they do, we shall do it too!

Straight ahead to Negotinska Kraijna!

Why visit Negotin and Rajačke pimnice?

1. Because Negotin is the hometown of “the father of Srbian music”

The road leads us through the city Negotin. Does its name derive from the former inhabitants, Negoti and Tini, around whose household former settlement had been created, or had it grown from everlasting Serbian competition “(better) than you – nego ti)”, it is not exactly known. But, it is certain that it is the birthplace of Stevan Stojanović Mokranjac. We enter a yard where we face the bronze sculpture of the most prominent Serbian composer, judging by the opinion of the majority. Modest, traditional Balkan town house, from the middle of the 19th century, today turned into the museum and the cultural monument of extraordinary significance. The author of famous Potpourri made his first steps in it, and learned the first music tacts. Passing through four rooms, we experience Mokaranjac’s earthly days. Personal belongings, correspondence, family photographs, authentic furniture, two pianos and the portrait of the classic author of Serbian music and his wife, the work of another Serbian great artist – Uroš Predić.

In memory and the honor of their fellow citizen, every year Negotin locals organise the festival “Days of Mokranjac”, a unique music festivity that gathers proficient performers both from Serbia and from abroad.

Negotin is also proud of brigand Veljko, who fell among the first in its deffence from the Turks. The hero gave his life for Krajina, but it still fell under Ottoman Turks’ rule. Today, there is his equestrian sculpture on the central square, to remind us of the freedom spirit of this area. The monument was erected on the spot where he had fell.

2. Because on Negotin patrol station you may buy new Drive Cafe snacks

The roads of tradition and rich history always ennoble the soul. And for complete enjoyment, it is good to add a little bit of pure amusement! During the break on Negotin petrol station, while our car was filled with G-Drive fuel, we decided to treat ourselves with Drive Cafe snacks, which brings AMUSEMENT, EVERY TIME!

You may chose classic or ribbed chips, flips with as much as 32% of peanuts, or fresh and crispy popcorn.

All of them are equally tasty, so we did not thing too long; we bought the entire crispy set and continued our journey.

3. Because Pimnice are a stone city – the homelpace of wines

That is how the story goes in the area around Rajac village. The name is, presumably, given after local speech: ” idemo da piMo vino” meaning “let us drink wine” They are mentioned also as “pivnice” (bear-houses) which may mislead bear drinkers to false conclusion, since bear do not reside here, not even in the neighbourhood.

Some thirty kilometres from the city of Negotin, after bouncing along the patched road and partially good asphalt, one arrives to hilly area with unusual settlement surrounded by forest. Stone houses stretch along narrow alleyways that are meandering and leading to small squares. A stroll through this unique labyrinth, if passed and outwitted, lead us to the central square with the fountain. We think that it is a film setting, and except them to be removed, because we do not want to be fooled. But ethereal scents dissuade us. Maybe it is real after all.

At that moment, a middle-aged woman calls and invite us to come. She wishes us welcome and sits behind the table for small talk in front of the cellar.

They have been built from the middle of18th century to the thirties of the last century, at the model of cellars from Kosovo-Metohija, with thick walls to keep permanent temperature. They consist of wine cellars, sunken about one meter into the ground, and the housing areas where people stay during works in vineyards. Without chimneys. Out of 270, only about ten are still active. There are both natives and newcomers among today’s winegrowers, and one top student joined them. It is the celebration of 14 February, the day of Saint Trifun; Slava bread is being cut and vine nipped. She proudly tells us that everything had started in the Roman times, and that Negotin wines had been exported to France, Austro-Hungarian Empire, Germany, Russia…it is only normal that we taste it too.

She ushers us in the cellar. Barrels, stuck one by another, are dreaming, each one its own variety. Chardonnay, white Tamjanika, rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon – dry, mildly barriqued. And the pride of the area, special bouquet.

4. Because red (black) Tamjanika is an ancient specie

Autochthonous, muscat variety of Negotin region. Very rare, hard for gworing due to problems with flourishing. Taste is full, balanced, and incomparable with other wines. Unrepeatable. Scent of roses. It interlaces with condiment tones of basil, raspberry, strawberry…Everyone will find another tone in the “back”. Drinkable and refreshing. Dances with food. It is perfect combination with fish and sea fruit, but also chocolate and fruit sweets. Praised and celebrated in the songs of Negotin region. In that famous song dedicated to the brigand above all other brigands, Velko, it is mentioned as red wine.