Six reasons to visit Krupanj and Cer

It is springtime here in Serbia, but the winter is not yet willing to let go and is putting up a good fight. This is symbolic for the place we are about to visit: this is where brute force tried to take over a smaller noble one, but failed. The worn-out road to the picturesque western Serbia goes from Belgrade through Šabac.

KRUPANJ IS THE HEART OF THE RAĐEVINA REGION

The town of Krupanj sits snug in a valley between the slopes of the Jagodnj, Boranja and Sokolska mountains. Three rivers, Bogoštica, Čađavica, and Kržava, flow here into the turbulent Likodra river. Krupanj is the heart of the Rađevina region, allegedly named after the vojvoda Rađ, one of the seven knights of Duke Lazar. The name of the region can also be translated from Serbian as “fertile”, which is another plausible way of explaining the name.

According to archaeologists, first settlements appeared here as early as the Neolithic age. The area was also populated at the time of the Roman Empire. During the Middle Ages the town became a centre for mining, but sustained significant damage during the Ottoman Conquest. The name of the town first appears in writing in 1417 as Crupagn.

Now the centre of Krupanj hosts a neat park with a river flowing through and a cute pedestrian street filled with cafes and several interesting buildings, some in the oriental style. The ossuary church in the centre is named after the Ascension of the Lord. It was built in the 1930 on orders of King Peter I Karađorđević and is beautifully painted on the inside. In August 1931 some of the remains of the Serbian warriors fallen in the battle at Mačkov Kamen were transferred to the ossuary of the church. Behind this church, you will find a much smaller one by the same name, a century older.

Also in the centre you will find the Stolice museum dedicated to the events of World War I and the town’s history in mining and metallurgy. In the hills outside of the town, there are two caves, Orlićka and Kovačević, and the remains of the Ottoman fortress named Soko Grad. At the foot of the fortress there is a monastery dedicated to St. Nicholas.

CRKVENI PARK CONNECTS FAITH AND TRADITION

Only several kilometres from Krupanj on a hill you will find a beautiful park known as Crkveni Park, or Church Park. It surrounds the old church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. First written mention of the church dates back to 1528. Inside the park, there is a bell tower, a museum of hunting, beekeeping, and traditional trades, and a 500-year-old cemetery. Two chapels, St. Procopius and Saint Petka, are located inside old mining shafts as relics of the time the Christian faith had to go into hiding.

DOBRI POTOK KONAK OFFERS AMAZING LOCAL FOOD

Just few meters downhill from the park there is a traditional inn, or konak, named Dobri potok. Walking into the yard, we see several log cabins for rent, a children playground and a restaurant. The rustic interior and the mouth-watering smells wafting from the kitchen convince us it is high time for lunch. According to the waiter, all food is local and fresh. We go for some homemade beef soup, an assortment of grilled meat, roasted potatoes and some roasted peppers for a bit of spice. The taste of the food confirms the waiter’s words, and we leave the restaurant full and happy. The wind outside smells of snow.

MAČKOV KAMEN REMEMBERS THE HEROES OF THE GREAT WAR

We continue our walk, now climbing uphill, to the Mačkov kamen peak standing at 923 meters. The hill, now covered in pristine snow, was the site to one of the most devastating and bloody battles Serbia had to face in World War I. We still do not know how many Serbian warriors fell in the battle, just that there was many on them.  In honour of the fallen heroes, the top of the hill is crowned with a chapel with a bell tower and a cross on the top. Inside there are frescoes, a picture of the Virgin Mary with Child, and some flowers. The inscription says, “For saving the Motherland. Mačkov kamen 1914.” The top of the hill is still and quiet, covered with ancient pine trees. As we are about to leave, we see the stone memorial table bearing lines from a poem by Vojislav Ilić Mlađi:

„Bow down to their sacred relics,

And as you close the door, remember

That justice means more than strength,

And that David defeated Goliath“.

CER IS THE MOUNTAIN OF HEROES

The most famed peak of the region is the Cer Mountain. We start our ascent in the village of Tekeriš near a monument to the soldiers fallen in the Cer battle of 1914. This was the first victory of the allied forces in the World War I. The ten-meter tall monument of granite is topped with a sculpture of an eagle spreading its wings. It stands on top of a communal grave holding the remains of about 3500 soldiers. The inscription on the front side of the monument says, “Your deeds are immortal”. The memorial site was opened on the day of Vidovdan in 1928. The monument is surrounded by busts of Radomir Putnik, Stepa Stepanović, Petar Bojović, i Živojin Mišić – the officers, who lead the troops into battle. Think about the Cer troops next time you hear the familiar melody of the Drina March, as composer Stanislav Binički dedicated it to his favourite commanders, who had fought during the Battle of Cer.

Apart from its proud history, the Cer Mountain has much more to offer. Named after the Turley oak species, it is covered with a forest of oak, beech and hornbeam trees and is home to a variety of medicinal plants. The area is not densely populated, and is ideal to enjoy unspoiled nature. Well-marked hiking trails criss-crossing the forest will lead you to several viewpoints, remains of an ancient fortresses, and monasteries. Legend says, this region is the birthplace of Miloš Obilić, a fabled Serbian knight who assassinated Sultan Murad during the Battle of Kosovo.

FILL UP THE TANK AT NIS PETROL FILLING STATION WITHPOUT LEAVING YOUR CAR

After a day of impressions, we are finally ready to head home. To fill up the tank we choose the Sava Most petrol station of the NIS Petrol network. Here we could save valuable time and pay for the fuel with the Drive.Go app, without having to leave the car and interrupt our discussion of the day’s events.

Now we are all set for a trip home, but we will be happy to return to this beautiful region again.